IKEA Socker Greenhouse

[mofms1]

MY SO has an IKEA Socker Greenhouse (SOCKER Greenhouse - white indoor/outdoor - IKEA) and a couple of cats that I don't trust around most plants. They do alright with my store-bought Phal's that I keep on the dining room table (I think the leaves are too thick for them to consider eating them), but go crazy on other plants.

Since my SO has had the greenhouse for a few years and doesn't use it much, I was thinking it might work for some mini orchids. I saw there was a list of ones that could work well and I have started deciding what I'd like to get in there.

I would set it up across from some SE facing windows. It wouldn't be in direct light but would be getting decent indirect light most of the day, and I could supplement with a small grow light. It would also stay around room temp since it's inside. The top could also be opened for a bit each day if it needs airflow.

Does anyone have any advice on what I should start with or anything I haven't thought of yet?

[DirtyCoconuts]

Airflow would be my concern as it appears to just be a glass box. If you can have the top propped open maybe an inch and have a cross breeze in the room I bet it would prevent the box from getting stagnant

I don’t grow any orchids in inclosed spaces because it seems like an invitation for rot and mold but that is clearly my issue as it is a huge and successful practice.
Is there drainage?

[mofms1]

Originally Posted by DirtyCoconuts

If you can have the top propped open maybe an inch and have a cross breeze in the room...
Is there drainage?

I could prop the top open, but I'm not sure how much of a breeze it would get. That room doesn't have a ceiling fan, although the entire area is open-ish so there is a bit of airflow. There is no drainage, I would be keeping the orchids on mounts or in pots, and being really careful with watering

[Orchidking]

those ikea greenhouses are pretty breezy even when completely closed. With any greenhouse you need to monitor humidity though.

I know many people don't bother with fans. Have a look at this thread to reassure you Haraella Retrocalla

pots will increase humidity - bare rooted is safest in a high humidity terrarium. If a problem does occur it will be because the media usually starts decomposing (which happens faster in a high humidity terrarium) - which in turn can make the orchid rot.

Lots of perlite is important mixed in to the media is a high humidity environment to help prevent rot and you should be fine.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by Orchidking

those ikea greenhouses are pretty breezy even when completely closed.

Difficult to see how a completely-enclosed "box" can be breezy. Leaving a door open a bit may provide enough air exchange - there doesn't need to be an actual breeze. Small mounted plants like Haraella retrocalla can thrive without a lot of air flow, and do like high humidity. A mounted plant will dry out even without much air flow. Potted orchids are more problematical. I'd suggest experimenting with something not terribly expensive. When experimenting, remember that orchids do everything slowly... give it 6 months or so before drawing any conclusions.

Another thing to think about with such a small enclosure without ventilation - heat buildup. Even a little bit of direct sun can create an oven (think "greenhouse effect") Another reason to experiment with something inexpensive.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Orchidking

those ikea greenhouses are pretty breezy even when completely closed.

Thanks for the details. But could you please explain how a completely closed glass greenhouse can possibly become pretty breezy, let alone slightly breezy? You're basically creating contradicting conditions.

[Orchidking]

Southpark, I suppose when posting things online it is hard to explain the whole thought process you are right. Compared to a sealed air tight box the socker greenhouse is fairly breezy. There are gaps all around it and nothing seals very well on them which makes them easy to use without needing a fan.

Of course we could all go down Roberta's route and experiment for 6 months with a non important plant before trying with the proper plant why not. Call getting the plants you really want a retirement present once you are confident you won't kill it cause there is nothing worse than having to order a new one.

Anyway mofms1, experimenting is the best aspect of this hobby. It is frowned upon a bit by some on here it seems but makes it more fun.

[mofms1]

Originally Posted by Orchidking

Lots of perlite is important mixed in to the media is a high humidity environment to help prevent rot and you should be fine.

Thanks for the link. I read over that thread and there was some interesting info there. I hadn't really thought too much about mounting the stuff I put in the greenhouse, it's small so I'd have to find something that fits. But I suppose if I was putting mini's in there I could go ahead and plant a couple on something laying sideways.

Right now for my potted orchids, I use bark mixture and the posts with the holes in the sides. I've never had a problem with root rot in those, but I could see how I'd have to be more careful in an enclosed space.

---------- Post added at 06:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:51 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Roberta

. I'd suggest experimenting with something not terribly expensive. When experimenting, remember that orchids do everything slowly... give it 6 months or so before drawing any conclusions.

Another thing to think about with such a small enclosure without ventilation - heat buildup. Even a little bit of direct sun can create an oven (think "greenhouse effect") Another reason to experiment with something inexpensive.

Definitely smarter to try with inexpensive first. Especially since I'm just now starting to work with different types of orchids. Now in the fall/winter it doesn't get any direct light because the greenhouse would be on the wall across from the window. I will keep an eye out for it in the spring/summer and move the greenhouse if it starts getting a lot of sun directly on it.

This is all in the planning stages for now so I think it may be spring/summer before I even get this thing going anyhow. I still have to make sure I don't kill the new babies that I got from the orchid show a few weeks ago.

---------- Post added at 07:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:58 AM ----------

Originally Posted by SouthPark

Looks like the issue is with the wording - as in 'gap' and 'enclosed'. The words 'gap' and 'enclosed' don't properly describe the situation here.

Instead - upon close inspection - the triangular regions are not fitted with glass panels. So it's basically an open triangular region front and rear.

the triangle areas have glass. The whole thing is glass, but it's not sealed air tight. I think I will see how it does with the top propped open, it's designed to be able to do that.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by mofms1

the triangle areas have glass. The whole thing is glass, but it's not sealed air tight. I think I will see how it does with the top propped open, it's designed to be able to do that.

Thanks for mentioning that the triangle area does have glass. This image here appears as if there were no glass - in the triangular area --- and even in the whole of the front area hahaha. Optical illusion maybe.

But in any case - they're demonstrating that some panels should be open for air circulation. Even the side panel is raised up a bit here - by sliding up and holding.

[Ray]

Considering its small size, you might try some small, mounted plants (andysorchids.com). For the conditions you mention, if you add a tray of water to increase the internal humidity and catch drips when you spray/water, something like Phalaenopsis parishii might be worth considering.