Green/white mold on phalaenopsis roots

[Shadeflower]

Originally Posted by WaterWitchin

ShadeFlower likely missed the part about your RH being 30-45%.

mold doesn't grow in 30-40%. People say stuff online all the time. I don't want to nit pick but mold does not grow in 30-40% so I am sure with a calibrated hygrometer the humidity is rising over 60% every night otherwise mold would not be growing. I haven't got any mold and the only time I get mold is when I get it in substrate from a new purchase, ie I bring it into my home.
It can then be eliminated easily by keeping a home at 30-40% for 2 weeks. The substrate needs to be let to dry thoroughly too.

One of the best fixes for mold is to keep a plant bareroot for 2 weeks in a vase and spray the roots a little bit daily , that way they stay hydrated and dry out enough for mold to have a tough time growing.

How long it should take to see improvements? Months. The aim is to watch out nothing declines.

From experience you lean what plants respond well to and what they don't, you then apply that to future plants, everyone loses orchids along the way learning what they like or dislike but it is very hard to see instant results. you need to look back and see what has worked well for you in the past and provide that again in future.

[Phalaenoptics]

Thank you both for your wisdom and input!

@Estacion I like this rule of giving myself 1 repot per year per plant - since so much of the advice out there is too "unpot, look at the roots etc" it's tempting to do it... all the time, whenever there's a sign of decline. I just haven't had them long enough to know what's normal (even if it doesn't look perfect).

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

One of the best fixes for mold is to keep a plant bareroot for 2 weeks in a vase and spray the roots a little bit daily , that way they stay hydrated and dry out enough for mold to have a tough time growing.

How long it should take to see improvements? Months. The aim is to watch out nothing declines.

From experience you learn what plants respond well to and what they don't, you then apply that to future plants, everyone loses orchids along the way learning what they like or dislike but it is very hard to see instant results. you need to look back and see what has worked well for you in the past and provide that again in future.

@Shadeflower - I've never heard of this bare-root vase method before and I really like it! I think I will definitely have to consider trying this next time I have an orchid with issues. I suppose it could help struggling orchids as well with root rot issues?

I think my problem (and a common newbie problem from reading posts on this board) has been to overcorrect when I see declines. That dangerous stage when you know more than someone who knows nothing, but you lack all sorts of practical experience. It's like that saying goes, "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!"

I really like your advice about experience and that it's okay to lose some plants along the way. It's very reassuring. I am going to keep that in mind going forward!

[mvmgems]

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

mold doesn't grow in 30-40%. People say stuff online all the time. I don't want to nit pick but mold does not grow in 30-40% so I am sure with a calibrated hygrometer the humidity is rising over 60% every night otherwise mold would not be growing. I haven't got any mold and the only time I get mold is when I get it in substrate from a new purchase, ie I bring it into my home.
It can then be eliminated easily by keeping a home at 30-40% for 2 weeks. The substrate needs to be let to dry thoroughly too.

One of the best fixes for mold is to keep a plant bareroot for 2 weeks in a vase and spray the roots a little bit daily , that way they stay hydrated and dry out enough for mold to have a tough time growing.

How long it should take to see improvements? Months. The aim is to watch out nothing declines.

This is not the case. I have four independent hygrometers from two different brands, and they consistently match. One of them has max/min recording features, and the absolute max that ambient humidity gets when temps drop to ~65F at night is mid 50s.

I do have most of my orchids in cache pots and it appears that the humidity in the pot is high enough to promote mold growth. I've since removed that particular plant from the cache pot, and healthy plants with mold growing on the bamboo skewers or bottom bark I've left alone.

We also get bread and pastries molding over very quickly when left in the pantry cupboards instead of the refrigerator. I reside in east San Jose on a sunny hillside. It's definitely warm and dry.

[WaterWitchin]

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

mold doesn't grow in 30-40%. People say stuff online all the time. ...

As mvmgems points out, not true. People DO say stuff online all the time, accurate.

Totally missed my point ShadeFlower. You told the OP to get a dehumidifier. My point was with 30-45% humidity as the OP indicated was their norm, it wasn't necessary.