Very interesting post, can’t wait to hear from other members. I have a couple of long running experiments. I think a general issue I ran into early in my growing experience, and one I see replicated fairly often is taking water and culture advice for adult plants and applying it to younger Cattleya. I have found that all Cattleya, especially younger seedlings benefit from wetter environments than traditionally recommended. I would like to qualify all the following information with the fact that I grow in Redlands Florida, aka south Florida south west of Miami.
1) Modified semi-hydroponic grow set ups. For a couple of years, I’ve grown complex hybrids in terra cotta pots with holes filled with inorganic media, and placed these pots over a grate which is set atop a constantly filled tray of water. I’ve noticed all the plants I grow in this method have taken off. Reaching flowering size in 3 years and pushing multiple growths. They seem to grow normal roots and reach down into the water where the morphology of the root changes. Once the new growths have sent roots down through the pot and into the water, these roots are completely white and much more rigid than the roots exposed to air. They do not rot if constantly submerged. I’ve had exceptional results doing this. No old pseudo bulb wrinkling and doubling in size of each growth is typical.
2. Using sphagnum moss. I grow in an uncovered lanai here in south Florida. Half the year it rains every day so the seedlings stay constantly wet in the moss. I grow them in loosely packed sphagnum in 3in pots. This seems to work best if the plants are transitioned to this method right after removal from flask or still quite young. They seem to really enjoy this medium, I do not pack it tight at all. One caveat is the ease with which algae and sub sequential biofilm can take over the top of the medium and restrict air flow and nutrient displacement throughout the medium. This can eventually completely rot the roots out and kill the plants through dehydration.
3. Blast them with light. Especially in sphagnum moss, I transition flasklings to practically full Florida sun over a period of 6 months. They turn PURPLE. This has led to tighter more compact growth which is not as attractive as the lush green foliage my plants growing in more shade exhibit. The high light plants seem to be more disease resistant and seem to flower around the same time as lower light.
4. Longer photoperiod. I have experimented with supplementing light after sundown for recently unflasked seedlings. Mixed results here. Seems to be most helpful in speeding growth until the second set of true leaves emerges.
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