Okay

Few questions, will try to remain brief and organized for you all!
1. What should I consider if I wish to send RO water to three different taps? The system will be in my "basement" (it has drains on the floor to the landscape), which is directly below the kitchen. Route a line to my sink, to my fridge, and leave a tap in the basement as a "just in case" - actually, I plan to fill up the watering cans here instead of the kitchen for the orchids and other houseplants.
2. What pitfalls if I want to go with a larger storage tank, from the 3 gallon? Do I need it.. no, but, from what I've read, things really slow down after about a gallon is emptied.
3. Like most people, the "waste" bothers me. Sub parts follow.
3a. The Watt's Zero Waste is interesting, however:
i) when the water is pushed back into the system, and I turn on the hot water immediately or two days later, am I paying for it.. twice?
ii) should there be concern about increased salts in the waste water/effluent shortening lifespan of the water heater? It's unclear to me whether the solubles will precipitate to the bottom or "eat away" at the sacrificial anodes in the unit (mine's a new, installed last June).
iii) should I be concerned about intermiitent pressure increase for my specific situation: the house was built in 1989, which in my area this time was notorious for poor construction, shortcuts, etc. Additionally, the PO had a lousy handyman who did stupid things. As an example, he or she used iron pipe at faucet fixtures. The good news is that the house was a vacation home before me, so it didn't see much use. It has not been repiped as far as I know.
3b. I don't have much garden space at all, so saving the waste/effluent to water the garden may not be practical. Everything is on a drip system. Although most of the "soil" is sand that's now been amended, I haven't watered since the last rain end of March, and now a month later, the soil is still moist under the mulch (I'm a little worried about this). With this in mind:
i) does a "valve" of sorts exist (or could be built) where I could tap into the drip system, and use the effluent water when the tank is full, then, revert over to mains when nearly empty?
ii) if this said tank is full, is there a valve that would then send water to wasteline?
Maybe all these valves are a bad idea, too many potential points of failure
4. I have a FloJet BW5000A with a shut-off at 40psi. It's the lower-flo version, hooked up to my espresso machine which I no longer use. Can anyone see any sort of potential use for this in the system?
5. What's the difference between Ray's residential system and the ones available through home despot or amazon (specifically the "made in USA" flag on it)? Other than support from/to Ray
More questions, but lets start here
