Winter Catasetum Care from Sunset Velley Orchids
 

I saved the December 2003 newsletter as a PDF since it contains some very instructive photos as well as text. Here is link to the article for those not currently on the SVO email list:
Winter Catasetum Care.pdf - Google Drive

Lots of good information for managing dormancy.

If you grow Catasetinae and aren't already on the email list, I strongly suggest that you sign up on the SVO website. You'll get these periodic culture notes, as well as notification of new releases before sales are opened up on the website.

the culture notes are great. I would suggest that perhaps for some growers an absolute lack of water may not be the best thing. I just had a nice Dentigrianum hybrid shrivel up (this was two bulbs) and I was told it was likely due to lack of water. Leaves fell off a month ago and I let it get bone dry (it is however in a humid environment). I'm now lightly watering everything every 3 weeks or so. (Note: they are tightly packed in sphagnum and once dry they actually take up very little water with a light watering).

Fred's little trick of the reservoir under the pot might also help... puts nearly 100% humidity under the root zone without "free water". If it cools off at night, maybe even get some condensation.

that's a good trick! I have a couple virused plants I keep in the house, away from everything else...now to find little bowls....

Or jars.

I would also say that if they are not fully dormant and feel tender, even if not shriveled, to give them a watering, it might feel like rot to the touch but after watering they harden up again.

Once dormant I haven't noticed much difference in shriveling levels, etc. after watering so I just let them be, but hardening before dormancy is important.

Keeping the dormant plants in a high (60%+) environment will help prevent excessive shriveling, which is what the jar technique tries to remedy in dry areas.