How do I encourage root growth?
 

This is a bit of a continuation the the other threat about the mealybug infestation that I had.

This Schilleriana, a young plant, so it's quite small compared to my regular Phalaenopsis. As I've told in the other stories I bought it end of June. Anyway I think that I've got the mealybug problem under control now. I've sprayed the "insect control" stuff, the poison twice... I keep checking just in case but so far I don't see any more bugs.

Anyway... this is the situation now: most of the roots are completely desiccated, dried out from the top. The outer edges are still green but the upper part dried out. As you can see on the picture. Except for 2 tiny new roots, that are too short, they're not in the medium yet.

So my question is: what can I do to promote root growth?

Short answer: order some Kelpak! (the equivalent of Kelpmax in the USA)

More seriously, I started using it early/mid July and after just one application, the effects were just staggering. I have a few Phals that I'm struggling to encourage root growth on, and 3-4 weeks after soaking in Kelpak, tons of new roots appearied. One started no less than 5 new roots.

Check out the thread here: Kelpmax in Netherlands The EU distributor is Besgrow, conveniently located in Dronten, NL. All you have to do is send an email to info[@]besgrow-europe.com, they'll send you an invoice (I paid 27euros with shipping for a 1L bottle) and then ship the bottle as soon as you pay.


If you don't want to spend that much I've had some success encouraging root growth my misting the surface of the substrate and base of plant daily. For many Phals, it seems to encourage a few brand new roots to grow, but given how slowly it happens I can't completely exclude that they would have produced those roots without misting...

I have on-hand Auxinone and/or ezy-root gel, but rarely use them. I just like keeping things on hand in case I need them.

For an orchid like the one you showed in the photo - in my tropical conditions here, I just pop that one into scoria in a big enough and deep enough pot, and then have nice gentle air-movement - with good temperature and lighting conditions. And I put those good roots down a little bit into the media (scoria pieces, eg. 5 mm average diameter pieces). And then I just mainly water the scoria out toward the outskirts (rim region) of the pot ..... most of the water goes there. And some of that water actually does leak or move toward the centre of the pot (as the water makes its way downward into the depths of the scoria ... and propagates side-ways a bit too).

The humidity here in general is quite ok, and the moisture in the pot (due to wet scoria) keeps the humidity around the roots at satisfactory levels ----- for the roots to get moisture that is. No risk of 'over-watering' too.

Thanks! This is a really great idea. I did not know of this. And although I must say it sounds pricey, and a huge bottle too. But on the other hand I do have a couple of other orchids that I guess I could also use this on. I have an old Phalaenopsis, regular kind, that hardly has any roots because of neglect at one point. But it doesn't seem to want to make any roots into the media, and therefore keeps looking dehydrated, even after some time. I also wonder if I could use this one my Paphiopedilum that's only got one fan (growth) left after the other one rotted and had to be removed?

Actually this got my curiosity going and I googled to see what's available here in the Netherlands. Turns out there are also other brands one can buy from the bol.com website. There is ROOTiT (rooting gel) and also CLONEX. I don't know if they're any good. But I like the idea.

---------- Post added at 02:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 AM ----------

Thanks SouthPark. Actually I must say that I did have a similar idea in my mind. I was thinking more in terms like a terrarium. I was anyway thinking about getting a small terrarium with terrestial orchids in the future. But then that idea I've sort of postponed at least for a while, since I had the mealybug infestation.

But then I was thinking in regards to the Schilleriana, it is a young plant so it is still small enough to find in a candy glass jar that I've got. I was just thinking about what to use as medium. But yeah the scoria idea... That is like a rock with holes right? I guess that's something that I could find in a pet store, where they sell aquarium stuff? Hmm...

What I like about this idea is because of the humidity factor and also because of the no risk of medium staying moist for too long. This is something of an issue right now because there are not many roots left, and then it takes longer for the bark in the pot to dry. Unless I'd try something like an inorganic SH, something like that?

Hmmm.... Let me think about what's the best plan of action here. :scratchhead:

Those products are primarily meant to induce roots on cuttings, and I'm not sure if the can be used on whole plants. If you want something cheaper than Kelpak, you can also try other kelp based roots stimulants which can probably be found on Bol.com too.

Be aware that most other kelp products will not work as effectively as Kelpmax/Kelpak. The combination of kelp species and extraction process used is what makes these two products better (different hormone ratios and hormones are better preserved during extraction) at promoting both roots and shoot growth.

Monivik ------ bark should be excellent to try out. I'm thinking bark could be excellent actually ----- as in, just use the same bark you have, and you can still have the orchid potted sort of like the way you do. Just a tad deeper (not too deep at all) could be ok --- just to get the roots into some of that media. Then keep the bark sort of damp ...... and when you water ----- focus most of the watering toward the rim region of the pot. You could certainly also water closer toward the orchid too if you want. Having the bulk of the water on the outskirts can still provide a nice humid air around the roots. And just water around the outskirts each morning, or whenever you want - and the orchid should just do its thing and grow nicely.

Thanks Camille. I've sent an email to Besgrow, I'll see if they reply.

---------- Post added at 03:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 AM ----------

Thanks SouthPark, I think that this in combination with a root growth hormone might be a good idea. :Tup:

You know since the problem with the mealybugs started my husband was like: "throw the orchids away" and you can always buy new ones... But I hate throwing away, if they have a chance of recovery. And so far the "insect poison" stuff seems to work, now I'm hoping for a recovery. :pray:

Monavik - you might find this to be of interest.

For orchids, we recommend the product be used in three different ways, depending upon your need, but always at 1 Tablespoon/gallon (4ml/L):

PLANTS WITH NO ROOTS

>Using warm water, immerse the entire plant for an hour or two.
>Without rinsing, pot it up, and water it in with that solution.
For the next two waterings, use the KelpMax solution.

REPOTTING PLANTS WITH DECENT ROOT SYSTEMS

>Pot them up and water them in with the KelpMax solution.
>Repeat the next two waterings.

EXISTING, ESTABLISHED PLANTS (AND THOSE ABOVE, AFTER THE RECOMMENDED TREATMENTS)

>Add to irrigation water or fertilizer solution no more often than once per month.

Absolutely monivik. Absolutely. If an orchid has a chance to survive, and the orchid doesn't have some kind of untreatable contagious disease that could/would harm other orchids, then I'm definitely all for doing what we can to help the orchid survive/recover.

I have seen online some big-time growers even mention things like compost/trash/get-rid-off weak orchids or sickly-looking orchids ----- ones that don't appear to be thriving, or no flowering etc. They probably have seen so many orchids or grown so many (eg. propagation) - that they (some - not all) see the orchid in a different way ----- and just have to compost plants - or else they'd end up with too many - ie. 'practical' reasons too.

But for us home grower orchid fans, I like looking after all orchids that we have in our home growing area - same as you!

Hi. Yeah so I followed your advice and ordered it from Besgrow as you suggested and I've finally got it.

Now my problem is to know what proportions I should use, in regards to water. See the bottle says for "houseplants" now I'm going to go after this, 1:100 or 1:400. Now unfortunately I'm not very good at math :lol:

What exactly is that? I mean a teaspoon per litre of water?

An additional question, I know this has nothing to do with orchids, but... Can I also use this on a Calathea plant? I've got one that's unfortunately in really poor condition. There's not much left of it. During the hot summer temperatures I suspect it was the fact that it was standing next to the fan that affected the plant negatively.

Thanks Ray, I think this is really helpful. :Tup:

I've been using Ray's suggested dosage of 4ml per liter, once a month. Not sure what that works out to be in teaspoons since I'm using a needleless syringe to dose it.

Yes, you can use it on your Calathea. The hormones will work the same way for most if not all plants!

Ok, thanks :Tup: That's what I will do then.

Well, I have one of those small things or cups to measure medicine intake with, that I can use. It has the ml indicator, well it's for a 2,5 ml and 5 ml. Close enough I think. I use it when I'm measuring up fertilizer.

4 ml/L is a 1:250 dilution. 1 tablespoon/gallon is 1:256.

When I got my first samples, I asked what to use on orchids, and nobody knew, as their focus is food crops, turf and trees/shrubs. They suggests I start with 1:400 (more dilute does nothing), wait a month, and if that did nothing, try 1:300 and wait a month.

I’m not that patient, so chose an easy Imperial measure - a tablespoon - and tried it at two treatments a week apart on my vandaceous plants. Growing in baskets with no medium, I typically saw no more than about a half dozen new root tips when they started growing in the Spring. That year, the average was 40.

Now then. Any questions why I’m so enthusiastic about the stuff?

What I've done with what I've got available to me, is a little greenhouse. I hope this works. I've got the wet spaghnum moss on each side, I hope that will create enough humidity.

Thanks Ray. I've tried the treatment now. And got the poor orchids in this sort of small greenhouse that I've created. I hope it works.

Looks good! Make sure there's some air-movement in there (to cut down or avoid fungus activity etc) - there probably is already (air movement).

The lid on the little "green house" has two openings on the top, that I closed. You can slide that green thing and close them or keep them open. Should I have kept them open? In that way some fresh air will come in.

Another question: Will it be enough keeping the orchids inside this? Will they get enough humidity or will I still need to water them as well?

You must to water plants; high humidity is insufficient to supply the water they need.

Consider the following: In order for a plant to grow enough to add 1 kg of mass, it must absorb and fully process about 500 L of water, but only about 10-12 g of fertilizer. Moreover, it must absorb more water to maintain turgidity as it loses water during respiration.

monivik ------ I think that if the environment inside the green-house is prevented from fungal spores somehow getting into there, then ok to have the openings closed.

But on the other hand, having some ventilation can be very beneficial for sure - gentle air-movement - to prevent something like a humid bathroom syndrome thing - where fungal spores can grow when the bathroom is not kept 'aired out'.

And Ray made a great point about needing to open the little openings in order to water the plants. That is you must open those openings in order to water the plants hahaha. That is obvious hahaha.

Actually - that was only kidding hehe. I think that Ray was seriously meaning that in order for the plants to get water into them properly, it's actually necessary to not have super high humidity for most of the time. So that the transpiration process can work nicely - I think.

I know that some plants that live in regular fresh air can actually grow under water too, such as one of the nutgrasses like Cyperus helferi. And not sure how terrariums work exactly too - sort of like fully enclosed. But for orchids in general ----- pretty sure that they need to have a humidity level below a certain general value in order to get water into them properly.

Some people may even use a little DC (direct current) fan to help get some gentle air circulation within a growing container. That's to suppress fungal growth activity on leaves, stem etc.

Hi Ray. I want to give an update on using Kelpak. Thanks for the advice first of all. :D

So my two worst affected orchids (from mealybug infestation) are a young Schilleriana Phal and the Hieroglyphica Phal.

The Schilleriana, it is still I think critical, it lost all leaves but the top 2 (had 5 to start with, and it's a young plant, pretty small),the roots all gone but two small short stumps. I did exactly as you said immersed the complete plant in water with Kelpak left it there for a while. Then waited 3 weeks and did it a second time (last week that was). Yesterday I noticed one new root on the way (so now 3 short stumps) and what looks like a new leaf on the way. I am so excited!!! :D I really don't want anything to go wrong now.

The Hieroglyphica still has a blackened crown, I've also treated this one with Kelpak. But it's the same, I don't see any change so far. But it's still there, not dead yet.

I'd now like to ask for a bit more advice. See the Hieroglyphica is my first (warm growing Phalaenopsis ever), to be honest I bought it without thinking about the "living conditions".

The thing is that I live in Northern Europe, and we're in fall now, winter coming next. The temperature inside my house is right now 72,5F (22,5C), and I grow all my plants in the house (apartment, I don't have a greenhouse). But I know that as the temperature outdoors keeps getting colder my house does too.

The average daytime temperature in my house fall/winter is 64,4F (18C) to 66,2F (19C). My husband and I work (not at home, not even during Corona) weekdays so we don't use the heating unless we're at home, and even then we don't put it particularly high, because of costs, it is expensive over here. In fact the heating is not on at night, when we sleep, either.

Not to mention daylight is also less this time of the year.

My question is can I do something, to better the conditions for plants that need a bit higher temperature?

By the way, although the Schilleriana, as I understand has normal conditions like the regular Phalaenopsis orchids, growth period would be spring/summer because of the higher temps. I think this recovering little one might also benefit from a bit warmer temp now that it's making a new leaf and new roots, right?

I'm now looking into maybe a heating mat? Is that an idea? Or growing lights? How about one of those LED growth lamps? Do the lamps also give off heat, or would you suggest the heating mat too?

My winter conditions are similar to yours, though a bit warmer since I live in a recent, well insolated building (and our windows face south, so on sunny winter days it can reach 22C without turning on the heating). 2 years ago I bought some LED fixtures for a few of my shelves and even though they don't put off much heat, I was measuring temps up to 5C warmer at plant level than a shelf without lights. This 5C gain was on a shelf that also has lights beneath it as well (acts as a sot of bottom heat).

Otherwise I would definitely suggest a heat mat for your poor recovering schilleriana!

I have a few warm/hot growing Phals, and even though our winter temps are far from being ideal, the plants do tolerate it and do most of their growing from spring to fall. I know they they will never reach their full potential, but the growth and flowering I see is good enough for me (given that the alternative is to not have these plants at all!)

Thanks. I've ordered a LED lamp, full spectrum. White light rather than blue or red. I think that's the one for regular daytime light. I thought at 25 euros I'm willing to spend that, not crazy expensive. Sounds crazy to buy something for just 2 small plants, but truth is that I think it's just handy to have because of my other orchids in general, they don't get much bright light for most part of the year. I've got orchids that haven't flowered for years, they seem fine, good roots and leaves are fine. Maybe the light is the issue?

Regarding the heating mat or heating pad. I might get a small one, I mean again something that could be practical for in spring time when I start planting seeds of tomato, pepper and herbs. I have a tiny little green house for those, and the heating mat can be placed underneath. So it may just be useful anyway.

I am going to wait first for the delivery of the lamp first, then like you said I want to test by putting a thermometer under it, to see if it does affect the temperature, even a little.

I originally bought my lights to grow better and more robust tomato seedlings, and then discovered that the orchids enjoy them as well! So the orchids get the LEDs from October to early march, then the tomatoes have them. I was thinking of getting heat mat for a few orchids and also using it to start veggies from seed in the spring

Heat mats are quite effective at stimulating seed germination, but also do wonders for encouraging orchid root growth.

The only potential "gotcha" is the medium drying out more quickly than you might expect, but that's really easy to remedy.

Silly question, are heat mats meant to be running 24/7, or would you use them just part of the day/night? (for orchid use, but also just in general)

One thing to note about Phal schilleriana, is that it thrives under brighter conditions than most Phal.

Don't be afraid to put it close to your LEDs, I'm sure the extra photosynthesis will help it recover faster.

I have only used them for germinating vegetable seeds and helping get plants established in S/H, so it was 24/7 for me.

Moni ----- I reckon that root growth is just bunched with regular plant growth.

If the orchid (leaves, roots and all) gets suitable growing temperatures, suitable lighting and lighting duration, adequate humidity, and maybe adequate air movement around leaves and around roots, and adequate water for the roots to get water into the orchid, and adequate nutrients (elements etc), and water source is satisfactory ------ then the orchid will grow satisfactorily ...... leaves, stem and roots.

There can be certain times of the year where maybe some catts do some 'resting', and not do a great deal for a little while - but picks up where it left off once the system gets back into action.

I've received the heat mat that I ordered. A question though: should it be on day and night? Or should I turn it off in the evening?

If the intended purpose is root growth, leave them on 24/7.

Also - "Ezi-root gel", and "Auxinone".

Hi Ray, thanks so now I've got the lights and the heating pad set up. Here's the latest update, with pictures.

First of all I was a bit worried about the heating pad, because I don't have a thermostat or temperature control with the heating pad, and I heard they can get too hot if they're on day and night. Well, it's been on for almost two days now and to my surprise it's not that hot as I expected it. It feels warm to the touch and if I touch the bottom of the "green house", the green colored thing it's not cold, it's more like luke warm. OK, so I tried using the thermometer. I have one that just measures the temperature in the living room in general. So my living room was at 19,6C (67,28F) this morning. So I placed the thermometer where the heating pad is, it's 4 hours later and it reads 20,2C (68,36F). That's not very much of a difference is it?

Anyway I have this little "green house" thing that I plant seeds in the spring in, like tomatoes etc. So I have the lid but at the moment I'm not using the lid. Should I place the Schilleriana and the Hieroglyphica with lid on top? I'm only worried about mould in this case.

The heating pad is small, smaller than the "green house" thing, but I got the smallest size because my "green house" thing is first of all small, and because the other heating pads were so large in size it would have been larger than the "green house" thing.

Another question: Is the placement of the lamp good? As you can see I've got a number of other orchids there. I've got an Oncidium, 3 Brassias, the Miltoniaopsis, a Cambria hybrid, a Paphiopedilum Pinocchio in the background. A Paphiopedilum Mauidea and a Callosum, oh and a Phalaenopsis Liodoro. (These are all by the west side window).

I've also attached some pictures of (in total all my orchids :biggrin: ) my regular Phalaenopsis. I've got a three on the window sill east. As it is fall now, days have less daylight, and even in daylight it's kind of dark (thick clouds). But yeah that's what it's like here.