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  #1  
Old 06-01-2024, 11:55 AM
Goldie101 Goldie101 is offline
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Repotting after rejuvenation
Question Repotting after rejuvenation

We have an orchid that was in terrible shape, so for the past several weeks I have been soaking and drying the roots each night. It appears to actually be working as there are new root buds and new leaves forming.

My question is this. How do I know when to put it back into soil (or should I do hydroponic) and any guidance on exactly how to do that. This is the first orchid we've had and it went badly at first, but we may have recovered it, but I don't want to screw it up at the final turn. Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2024, 12:14 PM
Mountaineer370 Mountaineer370 is offline
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Welcome to the Orchid Board. First, I want to suggest that you change your user name to something besides your email address. This is a very public forum. Anyone in the world can come on here and read posts without joining, and I sure wouldn't want my email address out there like that. If you need help doing it, contact one of the forum moderators.

We could really use a little more information to help you with your orchid. Do you know what particular kind it is? Did it have a name tag in the pot when you got it? You mention putting it back in soil. The vast majority of orchids should not be grown in soil.

Pictures would be helpful. I'm not sure, but sometimes, the board requires you to have five or so posts before you can post pics. Anyway, welcome, and I'm sure we can help you with a little more information.
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Old 06-01-2024, 01:39 PM
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Welcome to the Orchid Board!

Good save. It would help to know what kind it is, since they take different care. Is there a name tag? Can you post photos? Sometimes people need 5 messages before thry can post photos.

If not, browse through the different forums in the left yellow menu and look for the names of similar plants. Most mass-market orchids are Phalaenopsis, Oncidium alliance hybrids or Cattleya alliance hybrids.

The time to repot is when new roots are just beginning, which sounds like now. Tell us what you have and we can provide more advice.
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Old 06-02-2024, 12:40 AM
Goldie101 Goldie101 is offline
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Thank you for the advice. I took a quick look and didn't see a simple way to change my username. Any help is appreciated.

---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:36 PM ----------

I don't know what kind of orchid it is, but assume it is one of those most common. It was a gift from a friend's child who picked it out at the grocery store. Also, given that I know nothing, I used the term "soil" maybe improperly. I'm still figuing this stuff out!

My apologies for my ignorance. But that is why I'm here, eh?
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Old 06-02-2024, 01:03 AM
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With regard to changing your username, send a PM to WaterWitchin . She is an administrator, who can do this for you. (I don't have the access to do it)
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Old 06-02-2024, 02:57 PM
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We do need to know what kind of orchid you have before offering advice. It really is different for different orchids.

Search for photos of Phalaenopsis, Oncidium and Cattleya. Does your plant look like any of those?
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  #7  
Old 06-02-2024, 03:07 PM
Goldie101 Goldie101 is offline
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Here are a few photos of the current status of our orchid. As I said, I don't know what type it is, but maybe you can tell from these.
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Repotting after rejuvenation-img_1827-jpg   Repotting after rejuvenation-img_1826-jpg   Repotting after rejuvenation-img_1825-jpg  
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Old 06-02-2024, 03:44 PM
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Yes, it's a Phalaenopsis. It is salvageable. The most important things to remember about them are that they are shade plants, they need lots of air at the roots at all times, they like warm temperatures, they do better in high humidity but healthy plants tolerate lower humidity, and they like plenty of water.

The two green roots are enough to keep it alive. The bumps above them are new roots the plant is trying to make. The lower part of the stem has roots that might be dead or might be alive. If this were a very healthy plant I would cut off the lower part of the stem, but this plant needs all the roots it can have. I wouldn't cut that stem now. The next time you repot, in a couple of years, that old part of the stem will probably be ready to be cut off.

Most people use orchid bark for these. Phals. need lots of air at the roots, so people usually use medium or large orchid bark. The stuff sold at big box hardware stores usually has too many small pieces of chaff and dust in it, which plugs up the air spaces. You can pick out the large to medium pieces and use the small stuff as mulch in your garden. If you can't get medium orchid bark of uniform size locally, you might be able to find clay balls (LECA) at a hydroponics shop. Both products work well. If you need to order something shipped to you, your plant will be fine for a while if you soak the roots in water for a couple of hours every day, then let it dry. People here who can't find potting medium locally like to order from Kelley's Korner and from repotme.com. I use LECA but I'm in the minority. I looked at KK and I would use the general purpose mix, or plain medium fir bark. From repotme.com I would use Phalaenopsis Dark Classic or Phalaenopsis Monterey Dark.

When you have your medium, use a very small pot, perhaps 3" diameter. Set the plant in the pot and backfill with bark or LECA. The base of the bottom leaf should be at or just below the new level of the medium in the pot. It's best to use small pots for Phals., just big enough to stuff in all the roots.

Feel how much the pot weighs after you pot it. That is the dry weight. Now soak the pot and bark in a bowl of water for an hour or so, and feel it. That is the wet weight. Try to keep water out of the very center of the leaves. If some gets in there, blow it out with your breath, or use a piece of tissue.

Keep the plant in bright shade, no direct sun, in a warm spot. Water it before it gets completely dry. With new bark that might be every day or two. It takes bark a while to age enough to hold onto water. As long as there are good air spaces between the chunks, and the roots get plenty of air, they can stay moist without rotting.

Fertilize about once a week with 1/2 teaspoon of a powdered fertilizer per gallon of water. Any 20-20-20 with micronutrients will do. People use other fertilizers successfully, and there's nothing magic about them. 20-20-20 is easy to find, and you might already have some.

The plant will make new roots. They may go down into the bark, and they may wander out into the air. Both are fine. When you water get all of them wet.

The old leaves will lose some of the wrinkles, but might not go back to normal. New leaf growth will soon produce healthy leaves. I would not be surprised if this blooms next spring at the usual time. If it takes longer to recover, then certainly the spring after that.

Have a look here at a thread about growing Phals. From the left yellow menu choose Forums then Beginners. Near the top look for the sticky thread The Phal. abuse stops here.
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Last edited by estación seca; 06-02-2024 at 03:53 PM..
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  #9  
Old 06-02-2024, 04:03 PM
Goldie101 Goldie101 is offline
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Thank you so much for all of the information. One last (maybe!) question. The 2 old leaves have relatively sizable splits in them. At some point can I cut those off, and if so, when would that be? After new leaves and roots have taken hold?
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Old 06-02-2024, 04:13 PM
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No limit on the the number of questions... Don't be quick to cut. When the plant doesn't need those damaged leaves any more (after it has grown enough new ones), they will yellow and drop off naturally. Until then, they are contributing. Let Nature do her thing. The plant really wants to live!
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