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  #1  
Old 08-19-2007, 12:09 PM
PCgeekchick PCgeekchick is offline
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Default Summary of things to use?

Can someone give me a breakdown on things like when to use Cinnamon, brown Listerine, Neem oil, etc?

For instance, if I cut off a shedding leaf of a Phal, should I apply cinnamon? Or to a Den can that I remove for propagating?

Also, does anyone do a routine maintenance spray to keep things in check? I don't have any problems currently, but want to make sure I'm doing the best I can, and learning.

I bought a spray from Hummert's called Flower Pharm. It's the Cinnamon Oil variety, says it treats Orchid pests, fungus and garden pests and is a miticide, insecticide & fungicide. Makeup is Cottonseed oil 1.5%, Cinnamon .10%, Rosemary .10% and inerts are food grade oleic acid, non-gmo canola oil, usp grade glycerin, carbonic acid monopotassium salt, grape juices 11.1%,, and water 87.2%. Thoughts?

Thanks to everyone in advance!
Jami
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  #2  
Old 08-19-2007, 12:12 PM
gmdiaz gmdiaz is offline
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Great idea, Jami! I'd like to know too!

I know Ross is gonna say to go ahead and get the Physan 20 for your orchid care inventory. .. That's next on my personal list.
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  #3  
Old 08-19-2007, 02:57 PM
Dorothy Dorothy is offline
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Flower Pharm sounds like good stuff!
Very natural!
I prefer going the organic, non toxic route.
For what I know, cinammon is to seal open wounds (bee's wax works good also as it has anti-bacterial and anti- fungal I believe anti-viral properties) works as a fungicide and helps to repels ants.
More on cinammon see this thread - Cinnamon?
Brown Listerine - fungicide, bacteriacide - same thing it does for your mouth.
Neem oil - not sure.
Please anyone else care to comment - be my guest
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  #4  
Old 08-19-2007, 03:56 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmdiaz View Post
Great idea, Jami! I'd like to know too!

I know Ross is gonna say to go ahead and get the Physan 20 for your orchid care inventory. .. That's next on my personal list.
How did you know? I prefer natural or envornmentally-friendly chemicals in general so I prefer Physan 20 and use it pretty regulaly in my terrarium because of such high humidity. Rot could start in a blink of the eye. White mold on the mounts is pretty common. It's pretty hard to keep these mounted minis at 90+% for weeks and not expect something in return. So I keep a spray bottle of Physan 20 on hand for when I see things.

But I do also use Thiomyl on occasion (thankfully it's rare) which is a systemic fungicide for rot that is not treatable from the surface. I spray the leaves and heavy soak the mount or basket (again, in the terrarium) when I see or suspect rot has occured or is starting. This is not for your light case of mold, etc. It is left (by me) strictly for hard cases.

I don't use cinnamon or things like that so have no direct knowledge.
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  #5  
Old 08-19-2007, 05:22 PM
PCgeekchick PCgeekchick is offline
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Thanks for the replies! I have been reading posts in here topic by topic and kept seeing the cinnamon & listerine mentions too, so figured I'd better ask.

I truly appreciate the help! I like to only resort to stronger chemicals when necessary since I have 2 dogs, a hedgie and 2 teeny birds living inside- don't want anything "fume-y".
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  #6  
Old 08-20-2007, 05:49 AM
goodgollymissmolly goodgollymissmolly is offline
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Ross, I'm sure your post regarding Physan 20 was intended for good purposes, but it is entirely incorrect. I've learned several things about message boards. One, they are the best source of misinformation ever invented by mankind. Secondly, it is best to ignore the misinformation because the originator or his friends will fight to the death to defend their misinformation and their right to believe it. However, I can't ignore misinformation regarding safety issues.

There is no doubt that Physan 20 is a useful broad spectrum biocide. Like most broad spectrum products it is probably less effective for most problems than a product intended to treat the specific problem at hand. However, I agree that one does not always know exactly what a problem is and a broad spectrum product is useful in such cases.

So far so good...problem is that you imply Physan 20 is organic (meaning naturally derived) and that it is safe to use. Neither assertion is even remotely factural. Read the label. Physan 20 carries the "Danger" label. This the strongest warning in the Danger, Warning, Caution hazard rating system. It is not to be used in a greenhouse containing edible products, it kills fish when put in waterways, and it is a danger to humans if not properly used. It is not even remotely "organic" if you mean naturally occuring or derived from nature when you use that term. Interestingly it is specifically against California law to use it on plants.

I am not an organic nut case. Actually just the opposite is true. I believe in determining the problem and using the most specific and least dangerous remedy available. I also acknowledge that broad spectrum products can be very useful. I have nothing against the use of Physan 20, but I hate to see it misrepresented to an entire message board as safe or organic. It is neither.

Let the hell begin!

Jim
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2007, 07:10 AM
Lagoon Lagoon is offline
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My first aid kitt for orchids

Dish soap
Neem oil
Peroxide
Rubbing alcohol
Cinnamon
Sulphur

Good to see you again, Jim
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2007, 08:49 AM
Dorothy Dorothy is offline
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Gloria - which dish soap do you use? I have read it works as a surfactant and lowers the surface tension of water to allow for better root absorption. I read it also works to repel insects.
Do you use peroxide and rubbing alcohol interchangeably?
Do you also, use the cinnamon and sulfur interchangeably?
Thanks
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2007, 08:09 PM
Lagoon Lagoon is offline
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Hi D,
I spray Palmolive dish soap for insects, mainly when they first arrive - every 3 days for up to 2 weeks.
I also use peroxide before repotting, soaking down the roots, then place inside new media & pots. So these 2 are used together.One for roots and one for leaves.
I rarely use cinnamon, but in the past it has worked really well for me.

The alcohol is used for any mealy or scale I may find with new plants. It also helps dry up any fungus or black spots I may find on my Oncids.
The sulphur is used mainy during the winter months as the air quality is not always the best, it keeps the plants very clean looking and lowers any risk of fungus or bacteria build up - again mainly on my oncids. I probably whip this out 3 or 4 times during the colder months.
I have used the alcohol and sulphur together .... works well.

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  #10  
Old 08-20-2007, 09:18 PM
Dorothy Dorothy is offline
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Thanks Gloria! -
I will write it down it in my Orchid notes.
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