Getting Phrags to bloom
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:59 PM
D_novice D_novice is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Marin County, CA
Posts: 241
Getting Phrags to bloom Male
Default Getting Phrags to bloom

Hello all,

there are many threads on the interWebz about this matter. It is relatively easy for many Phrag-keepers to get them to grow, but hard to get them to bloom. Most answers boil down to (as usual with orchids) "more light." Then there's this, that says Phrags are tolerant, will do well under different conditions, and aren't as big of "light hogs" as some suggest: 404 Not Found ... ulture.htm

I'm just wondering if any Phrag keepers out there have struggled through this and figured out what works - even if it was just for them.

Here's my situation: 13 phrags, hybrid and species, purchased over past 11 months. Most of them purchased in spike/in bloom, and are still in the place where they went through their blooming, which was fine. As many online find, it's easy to keep them blooming.

They are in standing water in humidity trays with the grate removed. I used the standing water to rinse them, then water and weakly fertilize them once/week. I alternate between the green Grow-More ladyslipper formula and Dyna-Grow Growth formula. Once/month I give them seaweed extract instead, and once/month no fertilizer, just two consecutive waterings to rinse out salts.

They are indoors in my house, in a corner that has windows facing south and west. However, there is a hill and some trees in the way, so it's not that much direct sun, but some. They haven't burned. However, they get about 3-700 Lux during much of the day, then starting about 2:00 till 6 or so it is dappled or direct sun (when the sun hits them the light meter maxes out to "1").

They have a constant breeze from a fan and from windows open, and at night during summer anyway (in Northern California) the temp drops down to 60s; during the day it's in the 70s in here. Humidity is about 50%.

---

Sooo....

a) I do have a south facing window that gets more light. I could move them there, though I don't want to do that if they're fine where they are.
b) some sites mention top dressing once/year with N and bone meal. I do have oyster shell I could use. I never thought to do it, even though other terrestrial orchids (paphs, Cymbidium) are said to benefit from it
c) Perhaps I'm being impatient? Maybe expecting a plant that was in flower 8-9 months ago, to be in spike now, is not the way it works.

Any input from Phrag keepers appreciated - especially if you've struggled and then figured it out. If you have always magically had perfect success - well, I'm happy for you

One other thing. I have limited space. I'm growing indoors in windows; I don't have a temperature and humidity controlled greenhouse.

---

Here are my plants:
Phragmipedium Geralda (lindleyanum 'Andean Process' X caudatum 'Cuzco Green')

Phragmipedium Urgandiae

Phragmipedium Cotton Candy (Green Hornet 'Grasshopper' X Hanne Popow 'Tickled Pink')

Phragmipedium Franz Glanz (besseae 'Winter Sun' x richteri 'Green Giant')

Phragmipedium sedenii

Phrag. Sunspot x besseae 'Cow Hollow II' FCC/AOS

Phrag QF Naukana Kealoha (longifolium var. gracile x Incan Treasure)

Phrag klotzschianum

Phrag QF Nicholle Tower (Longifolium 'Black as Night' x Dellasandroi)

Phrag richterii

Phrag. Richard Lemay (Sorcerer's Apprentice "Red"x pearcei 'Jenna')

Phrag Twilight 'Rising Rocket' 4N AM/AOS x Dallesandroi

Phrag.Giganteum (Grande 4N x warscewiczii)

Phrag Inca Embers

Thanks!!!!

Daniel Heller
Marin County, California
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