How to Bloom Chinese Cymbidiums
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  #11  
Old 10-23-2020, 09:53 AM
Dulcinea Dulcinea is offline
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Thanks for your info. It’s quite thorough and is very helpful!
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  #12  
Old 03-15-2021, 01:10 PM
avondale avondale is offline
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I live in south Louisiana and mine all bloom. I keep them outside all year and they seem to bloom in the spring and fall. They are not in direct sun and I don't have to worry about humidity because the humidity down here is awfully high. I have to bring them inside when temps fall below freezing. The cold temps just last a couple of days so when the temps warm up back outside they go. Down here the plants are brought inside only about eight times a year. I'm originally from Michigan and I don't miss the snow and the shovel. The problem down here is when you go outside, you feel like you just walked into a greenhouse.
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  #13  
Old 03-15-2021, 04:08 PM
Dulcinea Dulcinea is offline
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Unfortunately we don’t have your heat and humidity. Thanks for sharing your info! Mine are only outside during the summer. I did just have one with two spikes in bud and all of the sudden they dried up. They weren’t even close to blooming and I never had that happen before.
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  #14  
Old 03-15-2021, 06:46 PM
avondale avondale is offline
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I had two plants do that when I lived in Michigan.
an orchid grower in Michigan told me that the stems dried up due to lack of water or low humidity.
since I brought all of my plants down here the plants that had the stems dry up have since bloomed four times so I'm guessing low humidity was the problem. Believe me you don't want the heat and humidity. I can't take the heat but I'm thankful for air conditioning. When I slid off my roof eight years ago I jumped at the chance to transfer to La. since a job opened up down here. I hate the humidity and high temps but the plants love it. Why don't you mist your plants in the morning or purchase a humidifier? You can find a good humidifier that isn't too costly on the internet. The good think about your plants is that they are growing. My friends up there bloom cymbidiums easily. They start giving their plants a bloom booster starting in July. They do this until the spikes appear and they all have their humidifiers going. After their plants bloom they then start feeding them a growth formula.
just try the increase in humidity and see if that works for you.
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  #15  
Old 03-15-2021, 07:08 PM
Dulcinea Dulcinea is offline
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My orchids are all in my sun shed. It’s a building with a small furnace in the wall, water, lights on timers and a plexiglass south facing skylight. The thermostat keeps it 65° during the day or higher if the sun is out and 55° at night. It has a cement floor that I hose down once or twice a day. I also run two fans at all times. I take all of the plants out of there in spring because it gets too hot and I can’t cool it. There is a Dutch door I leave half open when it warms up a bit and it’s open at night too as long as it’s not lower than 55°. My humidity in the cold weather is low but the number of plants along with the wet floor help a lot.

I’m glad I’m not in your heat and humidity. I used to love it but not so much as I’ve gotten older. Thanks for your suggestions!
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  #16  
Old 03-15-2021, 08:04 PM
avondale avondale is offline
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It sounds like you have the perfect setup. What puzzles me down here are the people who grow amazing plants in a greenhouse. I belong to my local society and I've been to several members greenhouse. When you walk in a blast of heat hits you. They only have fans running. I couldn't wait to get out of there. A greenhouse would never be on my to buy list because that heat would kill me. I get great results growing on a patio that doesn't get direct sun. I dread the summer. It's March and we have temps that are 81 degrees.
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2021, 12:39 AM
Asian Cymbidium Empress Asian Cymbidium Empress is offline
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All the information about East Asian Cymbidiums in English is wrong and there are many reasons why they don’t bloom. I only grow Japanese Cymbidium goeringii (orange flower clones) and I can bloom them every year and I can double the size every 2-3 years. Here are the reasons:
1. They must be grown in the East Asian Cymbidium potting mix (a mix of HARD Kanuma, BAKED Akadama, and Satsuma). These are pumices. All East Asian Cymbidiums in the Jensoa Section including C. ensifolium, C. sinense, C. kanran, C. goeringii, and C. faberi, are all terrestrial. So this mix is a terrestrial mix used to grow them. The potting materials is the standard materials used in Asia (China, Japan, and Korea), nothing special. It is also described in all the East Asian Cymbidium books to use them (not recommending to use them, they all tell you to use them). There is a reason for using it, so I don’t argue, and I don’t find alternatives, I just use this and that’s it. This potting material is critical in budding, hold the buds (for C. goeringii and C. faberii) and bloom.
2. The newest pseudobulb should be 30%-50% covered. If the newest pseudobulb is 100% exposed (you pot an orchid with pseudobulb where the base of the pseudobulb just sitting on top of the potting media), it will never bloom because it loses too much moisture (this is explain in detail in one of my Japanese books with diagrams/illustrations).
3. It will only bloom on a mature growth. Each growth takes 2-3 years to grow and mature. When I purchase my Japanese C. goeringii, I always only purchase bs plant. Although it is stated that a minimum 3 growths is required to bloom, this information is also very misleading. It will only bloom with 3 growths when you have a healthy root system. For example, I have a 3 growth C. goeringii (orange clone) that has 10-15 long white healthy roots, because it has a very healthy root system, it blooms every year. I remember a while ago, my Japanese vendor posted a plant for sell that had 10-15 growths but he only selling it as a medium seedling. The reason is that the plant doesn’t have such a healthy root system. So, to bloom, you must have a healthy root system and when grown in the East Asian Cymbidium mix mentioned above, the roots grow like crazy.
4. C. ensifolium is an intermediate to warm grower and the blooming season is between end of April into mid Sept. It doesn’t require anything special treatment, it will just bloom by itself.
5. C. sinense is a cool to warm grower. Spring and Fall = intermediate (15C-20C range), Summer = warm (25C-30C range), Winter (10C-15C range= no lower than 10C). The buds should poke out from the surface of the pot by Halloween. To hold the bud, keep the temperature between around 12C-17 C (15C on average), it should be able to bloom around Chinese New Year.
6. Fertilizer= I only use slow release fertilizer for East Asian Cymbidiums, I fertilize once in the spring and that’s it. I do not use liquid fertilizer as suggested by my East Asian Cymbidium vendor in Japan.
7. The information in English is 99% wrong (including Cloud’s Orchids), that’s why you rarely see them at North American Shows (also rarely seen in Europe). I figured out how to grow them by reading a lot of books in Chinese and Japanese and with a very detailed instruction from my Japanese vendor. Now the C. goeringii in my collection are all budding again and will bloom next Spring. If you want more information how to grow and bloom them, feel free to contact me.
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  #18  
Old 10-02-2021, 07:39 AM
smweaver smweaver is offline
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Thanks for the detailed information on how you grow these. And please disregard the question I asked a few minutes ago in a separate post, regarding the potting mix. I see that you've already addressed that here.
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  #19  
Old 10-02-2021, 09:29 AM
Dulcinea Dulcinea is offline
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How to Bloom Chinese Cymbidiums Female
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Does anyone know where to purchase the components for this mix in the US?
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  #20  
Old 10-02-2021, 10:31 AM
smweaver smweaver is offline
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They're all on Ebay from both Japanese and US sources.
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