catasetum bulb with root end missing from black rot

[SueK]

Do we have a catasetum expert out there. I have the remains of a bulb of catasetum pileatum "Imperial" var "Pierre Couret". It got black rot and I have had to scrape it all out to get back to fresh green tissue. This has meant that the end of the bulb which bears the roots has been removed. What's left of the bulb is nice and plump and healthy looking and it has been this way for quite some time. At present it is winter in Aust so bulb is out of pot and sitting on a bench. Will it send out a shoot in the spring, from along the remaining part of the bulb maybe at one of the rings, or is there any way that I can rescue my catasetum e.g putting it in set spag?

I am not very experienced and I'm hopeful someone will know more than me and be able to help. Thanks all you people who know everything.

[orchids3]

Not a catasetum expert but just listened to one of the leading experts about care and watering of catasetums in a very recent lecture. Not sure wheather your plant will survive or not but suspect that you have lost it. The reason Catasetums get in that conditions is watering practice. When Catasetums go dormant they loose the leaves and the secret to growing them is to not water at all until new growths get 4 to 5 inches long and roots develop. If you do the plant will get in the condition you describe. Read and heed what Mr Clark has to say at Sunset Valley Orchids - Grower and hybridizer of quality orchids, Vista CA. We may not be able to save the plant you describe but maybe we will save some of the rest of your plants.

[Dorothy]

SueK - I moved your thread to the appropriate forum .. If you wish to, post your own thread in the Introduction-Break the Ice forum so we can all welcome you

[isurus79]

SueK,
Welcome to the OB!! Your pileatum var 'Pierre Couret' is a very select variety and you should certainly try to save it. While I agree with "orchids3" that you should definitely follow the link that takes you to Fred Clarke's Catasetum Care Page, I disagree with the statement saying that you have lost the plant. This past winter I did some experiments with a few of my Catasetums and Cycnoches that were VERY unsuccessful. Needless to say, I had to cut off the bottom parts of the p-bulbs (like you have done) in order to stem rot. There are "dormant eyes" on Catasetums that go up along each ring of the p-bulb. You can coax new growth from each one of these even if the roots are gone. You will need to "spag n bag" you plant. Im not sure how familiar you are with this treatment, so Ill briefly explain it. You need a large, clear plastic bag (Ziplock works great), a wad of moist spagnum moss (wet paper towl works too) and your hapless Catasetum. Soak the spag in water for an hour or so then ring it out really well. You dont want a sopping or even dripping mess in the bag. Place the spag in the bag (hence the name!) on one side, place your poor p-bulb on the other side and close the bag tightly. You do not want the spag and the bulb to touch because that can initiate more rot. The spag simply holds moisture to keep the humidiy in the bag high. Likewise, water should not be allowed to pool around the plant. Put the bag in a bright area with no direct sunlight, as direct sunlight will cause your poor plant to cook. It might take a few months, but eventually you will see a small growth popping up and once the roots are a few inches long, you can plant up your new plant and care for it as Fred Clarke recommends on his care sheet. and post pics of your flowers when they come along!

[orchids3]

Hi,
Well at least there is hope - personally if it were my plant I would go to Freds site and ask him. Most plants respond well to the spag in bag treatment but wonder about plants that really like to be dry until they sprout. Fred lists an E-Mail where the question could be directed and I believe he is a lot more qualified than most to address catasetum culture issues.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by orchids3

Hi,
Well at least there is hope - personally if it were my plant I would go to Freds site and ask him. Most plants respond well to the spag in bag treatment but wonder about plants that really like to be dry until they sprout. Fred lists an E-Mail where the question could be directed and I believe he is a lot more qualified than most to address catasetum culture issues.

Excellent idea! Fred is certainly the authority on these guys. However, I would definitely put your bulb in moist environment while you wait for an answer so that it does not evaporate too much water from its system. If you hear back from him, let us know what he says. Im always wondering what the folks "in the know" have to say!

[orchids3]

By the way - during Freds lecture - pictures where shown of plants which were dug up from their natural habitat. Roots usually die during dormancy - only when new growth appears do new roots appear. During the interim period during dormancy the plant remains bone dry. If back bulbs are plump - not shriveled - the dead roots are the normal condition. The more I think about the recent lecture - (On June 10) the more I think that the condition SueK is worried about - is only normal for a domant Catasetum. Think it best to consult before increasing humidity too much.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by orchids3

By the way - during Freds lecture - pictures where shown of plants which were dug up from their natural habitat. Roots usually die during dormancy - only when new growth appears do new roots appear. During the interim period during dormancy the plant remains bone dry. If back bulbs are plump - not shriveled - the dead roots are the normal condition. The more I think about the recent lecture - (On June 10) the more I think that the condition SueK is worried about - is only normal for a domant Catasetum. Think it best to consult before increasing humidity too much.

Normally I would agree. However, SueK actually had to cut off the roots and part of the bulb in order to save the plant from rot. I had the exact same situation last winter (during Catasetum dormancy) and the bulbs I did not spag n bad died (rather quickly I might add), while those that were spag n bagged rebounded quite nicely. If the actual p-bulb was not partially cut away, then I would treat the Catasetum as I normally do: With bone dry conditions until new growth. However, since there is a gaping wound at the base of Sue's bulb, there is no way that the plant can conserve the neccessary moisture until next spring. The spag n bag will prevent desication while the Catasetum tries to save itself.