What's the typical time it takes for bareroot orchids to show live sign? - Orchid Board

Berrybee · #1 06-06-2014, 11:01 PM

Hello, I'm an entry level newbie. Got inspired after visiting the orchid room at biltmore. Came back and bought several different orchid plants. Some of them are bareroots received in mail. I didn't follow exactly the spag and bag, or no medium until new roots grow methods, as the plants either got too dry or had mold growing. So I potted them in pots with bark mix and misting them everyday. I check on them everyday, and haven't seen much change yet after two weeks, except a few leaves turned yellow.

So my question is normally how long it will take to see some growth after the bareroot orchids being taken care of. And will my way of putting them in medium with misting everyday bad for them? I put them outdoor on a covered patio for them to get good air circulation.

Any comments or suggestions are appreciated!

NYCorchidman · #2 06-06-2014, 11:25 PM

Spag and bag is for orchids whose roots are severely damaged. The idea is to keep plants from losing too much water and maintain high humidity to encourage plants to regenerate roots. It does not always work.

Bare root plants should be potted up right away, so you did the right thing.

Misting,,,it depends on how much you mist.
If it is just a gentle sort that moistens the potting mix surface, then fine.
If it is to a point where it drizzle inside and all over the pot, thus keeping the mix too wet ( you mentioned you mist everyday), then you will surely see problems.

How soon will plants root?
It all depends on the conditions of the plant and the season.
It is was in active growth mode, then rooting will not take long, but if it was not in active growth mode, it can be tough.

Hence, try buy potted orchids or if you choose to buy bare root orchids, do your shopping in the spring when things are generally in active mode.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #3 06-06-2014, 11:30 PM

What kinds of orchids are they?

Berrybee · #4 06-07-2014, 12:26 AM

Thanks for the replies.
I have a cattelya " blue Hawaii", vanda "pachara delight", oncidium taka, and aliceara Alice received as bareroot, and try to get them established.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #5 06-07-2014, 01:36 AM

You got plants that are currently in growing season in the northern hemisphere. I'd give them about 1 - 2 months before you notice any kind of growth. I'd give it some time.

Some orchids are far more expedient growers than others.

The slowest growing would be the Vanda. Second fastest/slowest growing orchid is the Cattleya. The fastest growing are the Aliceara and Oncidium.

Paul · #6 06-07-2014, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

The slowest growing would be the Vanda. Second fastest/slowest growing orchid is the Cattleya. The fastest growing are the Aliceara and Oncidium.

In case you are puzzled by KoOG's comment above (part in red), catts tend to be pickier about repotting than many commonly grown orchids, IME. If they have just begun a growth cycle or are in one, then putting out new growth or continuing to grow after repotting is very quick. However, if the plant is solidly in a rest period when repotted, they seem to tend to get stuck at that state for what seems like "forever."

silken · #7 06-07-2014, 11:57 AM

When you water them, try adding some seaweed (kelp) to the water. It helps promote root growth. I usually soak all my bare root purchases in some before re-potting. Then I treat them with the normal culture for that type. I like clear pots so I can see what's happening in the root zone.

Orchid Whisperer · #8 06-07-2014, 01:22 PM

Hi Berrybee

I have some questions to ask that may allow people to give better advice, then offer some suggestions on the Cattleya and Vanda. The other two are Oncidium-alliance plants, and I have relatively few of those, so I think it is best to get advice from someone else.

Questions first.
1. You say all of the plants are bare root; are the roots in good condition? Good = the roots are firm; typically white or silvery for roots exposed to air, but may be white, yellow, or even light brown down in the pot. Bad = the roots feel mushy when wet or papery when dry. If you are not sure, assume the roots are OK.

2. Are you seeing any signs of growth on any of the plants? Growth would be indicated by new leaves and shoots appearing, new roots (or roots with green root tips).

3. When you say you are misting, are you misting the leaves, the roots, or the whole plant?

4. Do you have an area that is partially shaded where plants can live outdoors during the summer?

My climate in Athens, GA is not too different from Charlotte, so maybe our growing conditions will be similar.

Suggestions for the Vanda. This is important for Vandas - they like to have their roots either bare, in the open air, or growing in an extremely coarse medium that does not retain any water. I only have one Vanda in a pot; it is in a mesh pot, the only growing medium is whole wine corks, it is very happy. Most of my Vandas are growing in clear plastic containers (liter seltzer bottles for the big ones, smaller bottles for the small ones). Cut off the top of the container, cut/poke holes in the bottom/sides of the bottle, put maybe an inch of coarse pebbles in the bottom (this is just to give it some weight). The leaves of the plant balance on the top of the container, the bare roots hang into the container. I mist the roots of these plants daily (I don't mist the leaves). I add a little fertilizer to the water about once a week (if the fertilizer label says 1 teaspoon, I go with 1/16th to 1/8th teaspoon per gallon). The plants are very happy growing this way. Vandas like more light than most orchids, but if you are unsure how much light to give, start them in moderate to bright shade and adjust slowly to stronger light.

Suggestions for Cattleyas. The bark mix you planted them in is probably fine, if the roots were healthy when you got the plants. A terracotta pot, or plastic pot with many drainage holes, is fine. Cattleyas like somewhat less light than most Vandas, but still bright (if outside, go for bright shade). Like Vandas, or any other orchid, make adjustments to brighter light slowly. If the roots were not healthy when you got the plants, I would take the plant out of the pot. Set it in a bare terracotta pot, place the pot outdoors if you can, in a shady spot, and literally do nothing but observe it for a while (a couple months). Maybe water it really well once a week, if it does not receive rain. Any healthy roots will sprout more side-roots with this treatment. You can pot it normally once you are sure some roots are growing. IMPORTANT: All Cattleyas like to dry out between watering. Do not mist them daily (this will kill them over time, because they never get a chance to dry out enough).

Orchids do all things slowly. It is not unusual for them to go weeks or months without showing significant changes. Most beginners kill plants by trying to do too much, too soon, thinking they must do SOMETHING to prod a plant into growing.

Orchids are generally tough plants. Beginners think they need babying to survive. But babying (too much water, too much fertilizer, constantly changing conditions, a spray of this or that additive, etc. etc.) is usually what kills them. Of these, watering too often is the number one orchid killer, IMO. For the Cattleya and Vanda, when you water, thoroughly wet the roots. Then leave it alone until dry before you water again.

Berrybee · #9 06-10-2014, 11:37 PM

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!
Paul, you answered my question before I even asked!

Silken, when you say to add some seaweed, do you mean the raw seaweed from grocery store, or some processed thing sold in bottle for plant?

Orchid Whisperer, our growing conditions should be very similar. I potted the Vanda in pot with corse bark and placed it outside with morning sun, because I'm afraid it will dry out if i leave the root out in the air, or I won't be able to water it everyday. I'll see if it likes it. The roots of the cattelya I got is not in good condition -- they are short and broken into pieces upon arrival. the good thing is i saw some little stud growing out, maybe a new root.
The oncidium types came with some new growths, but I haven't seen any development yet. Will have to patiently wait, and hopefully they will not stuck there "forever".

When I mist, I mist the whole plant, the leaves and the root area (surface of the bark mix). Is it a bad idea to mist the leaves?

I put all the potted bare root plants on a covered porch for a little more than 2 weeks, and they get some sun only in the evening before sunset. Should I move them to area that gets more sun?

I'm also thinking to try S/H, which sounds like a good idea.

BTW, I also got two potted plant, the dentrobium aggregatum and a big cattelya. the Den. grows like weeds, and I already got 4 new shoots and many new roots. The cattelya started to put out a new shoot, and new roots, but the sad thing is tiny snails and a slug licked the new roots couple times, and then the tip turned black and stopped growing. I put the pot indoor, so the snails and a slug (i killed those I saw) must come with the bark mix from the seller. I should repot it ASAP. Those little creatures normally came to the surface after I thoroughly watered the plant.

silken · #10 06-11-2014, 12:04 AM

I meant either dried powder form or concentrated liquid seaweed for plants and usually found in hydroponics stores.