Which orchids in YOUR collection get a winter rest?

[Kath]

Here in Normandy, France, the weather is getting cooler, and I have three phals with new flower spikes just coming thro, and a Ryncosophrocattleya which is preparing to burst into flower. I don't understand too much about the need to leave my orchids to rest over winter, but they seem to be ok for the moment! I have two cyms thay flowered last year, but they don't seem to want to this year. They may have had too much water this year.

[fotofashion]

Just to throw a little monkey wrench into the mix here: My local grower, who has many Dends., doesn't give any of them a winter rest. I'm thinking about an experiment this year of not watering the ones that have lost their leaves spontaneously and continuing to water the ones that have kept their leaves regardless of variety.
One thing about watering keikis. What happens in the wild? Neither the mature plants nor the keikis get water under natural conditions. Why should the keikis get watered in your GH?
Beverly A.

[biomechorchid]

I give my older Phal NoID a winter rest each year. I keep my Phals (just 2!) in my office.

My typical routine is--
Move it to a north-facing window about a month after the last blooms fall off. Cut down on watering and very little misting (or mist instead of watering). At the first sign of change--whether leaf growth or spike--I fertilize just a little and continue to water like normal but even less. After a month I expect to see flower spikes...once the plant grows buds on the spikes, I move the plant back to my desk and it blooms there.

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[fmondimore]

I have a Paph. maudiae hybrid given to me as a gift several years ago. It has never rebloomed. It seems very happy in a bright north facing window, with attractive mottling and lots of new shoots. Last night, a friend told me about the need for a cool period to set buds that many orchids have, something I'd never known (I am a real beginner!!)

I have a vestibule on the same side of the house (same light) that is significantly cooler than where I've been keeping the plant (low 50s at night and low 60s during the day.)

My questions:1) Does this plant need a cool period (from what I've read, it would appear that it does.) 2) will this room be cool enough? 3) Today is January 30th, is it too late to move it to the cooler location?

Any advice would be appreciated!!

Frank

[RosieC]

My Maudiae rebloomed without a major drop. I didn't consciously give it a cool period, but weather changes affected the inside of the house because I don't heat the house all day. The difference can't have been much so an area you notice as cooler yourself will probably do.

The cool period probably needs to be timed with a mature fan that can flower. It won't do any good if there are no new unflowered fans of sufficient maturaty. I don't think it matters when it happens apart from that, mine was a cool spell in the spring that triggered a spike over the summer.

[Hedge]

My maudiae type has produced a new flower on a the next fan just as the first of this year failed. I have mine in an East facing window. You might want to move yours to somewhere it gets some direct light in the early or late part of the day. Low 50's should be fine, mine gets that at night. Other things to consider are humidity and feeding.

[Vanda lover]

I have had dendrobium loddigesii for some years now, but have found it difficult to bloom. In fact, the only time it bloomed was when I put it on a bright windowsill in a cool garage. Last fall I tried leaving it out in the little unheated green house, but we got a cold snap that killed all but a small bit. Any suggestions on blooming this? I gave to a dry, humid rest.

[Florida_guy_26]

My maudiae hybrid flowered in orctober here, right after halloween which is about on schedule with cooler weather and nights hitting high 40's in the unheated kitchen. When I grew them in florida, they liked temps in the 40s and even high 30's. They are more highland type orchids which normally get very humid, cool night time weather and low clouds that roll over the mountains and hills they grow on. So the cool night humidity and then drying during the 50's -60's daytime seems to trigger blooming although they are odd and can bloom at any time, not just fall. Predominantly they grow in similar conditions to pinguicula moranensis and Those are the conditions I give them no matter the time of year. The plants do seem to like growing in sphagnum moss and or peat and love to sink roots into the moist peat if you can give them that.

[Florida_guy_26]

As far as the dendrobiums go, they seem to need bone dry conditions when they rest, and even that may not get blooms. I have let mine dry and they have had NO water for months and they seem to like the abuse. I got some nice flowers from mine this year, not many, but some and I had not watered but ever week or 2 with a light spray and they hardly even shriveled. The anosmum even like extremely dry conditions until they are ready to bloom. I do not understand those plants, but I will keep many as they intrigue me. I would say, abuse your plant by not watering and keep it cooler with temps at night from 40F- 50F and see if that works. This late in the game may not do any good, but you can try. I would also try decreasing light if you can and see if that helps it along. Very bright light helps tremendously also, so try direct morning light and decrease light and withhold water until canes start to shrivel and even then I would skimp on water and just mist canes lightly- no water to the roots. That may help and if you can't give those conditions, then wait until next fall. Direct sun seems to be the major key as even leafless canes or bulbs, or stems do lots of photosynthesis.

[Vanda lover]

Thanks. The man I bought it from told me to put it in a terrarium type enviroment, right up against a cold window in bright light, and provide only humidity during the winter, no water. It's a stuborn little bugger! At least it doesn't take much space.