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  #21  
Old 08-24-2024, 07:54 PM
Kittyfrex Kittyfrex is offline
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You have no idea how much i love you for this wealth of information. Up until a year ago, i had some insight on phals and phals alone, this changes so much in my understanding of this.

sa-nook is a hybrid, and that's all i know. I am far less knowlagable on the lineages of orchids, but i do assume it to be a more tropical type; everywhere i looked made it seem very cattleya-like - warm and bright.

You mentioned Sarcochilus earlier. I got S. Madge 'Free' x Kulnura High 'Light together with my outside dens (excluding nobile). I got it on a premise that my sources made it into a .... diffrenet looking dend. I gave it the same adjustment period behind a shadecloth but in the sun (enough space that leaves never got warm). But when i put it out, again, on the same day, it started yellowing slightly. I've discovered as of recent that yellowish, sickly looking leaves are actually preferable to rich green on some plants and orchids, but i couldn't find a source on Sarco. It seems to be rooted firmly by now, and i've had them for about 1-3 months. Got it inside just in case. Any ideas?
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  #22  
Old 08-24-2024, 09:00 PM
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I think the Sarco would appreciate a bit of shade, but outdoor temperatures are fine. For those, dark green is good. Bright shade or filtered sun. (For Cyms, try for sort of "lime green" - if leaves are dark green they're not getting enough light and may not bloom)

Glad to share! There is really very little information out there for growing outdoors in a Mediterranean climate. I have written generic basic culture sheets for talks I give at shows and such because the culture sheets from the American Orchid Society etc. are quite useless in this environment. But not much depth, just a one page hand-outs. I have learned mostly by trial and error, and from talking to people at local orchid societies. Website was an attempt to share a bit of what works for me.
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Old 08-24-2024, 10:34 PM
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I previously lived not far from where Roberta now lives. Your main issues will be low winter temperatures combined with cool rain. Some orchids are fine with that, especially if it's a dry winter. Others cannot tolerate either cool temperatures or cool rain.
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  #24  
Old 08-24-2024, 10:50 PM
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Along with my website, do also look at the orchid species site ( in my signature ). Some of the contributors (along with myself) do grow outside (meaning cold and rain in winter), others use a greenhouse, the notes indicate who grows where. There are so many orchids to choose from, these notes may help to determine the ones that can tolerate those conditions.
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Old 08-25-2024, 03:48 AM
Kittyfrex Kittyfrex is offline
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My cymb used to be dark green, but is not luckily anymore. It came with 1 blooming pseudobulb and two new growths when i got it it in 2022, fall. Obviously didn't bloom, but it produced two more growths this year, and with being outside, i have a good feeling about it.

Also, i know exactley what you mean by lack of information. No matter the source, i always find myself needing to adapt temps/water, often straying from any "care guide" i menage to find because most are suited to more northen regions, where a full days of sun feels like a childs game compared to sitting in it here. As an example, i need to have my gladioli, tulips, crisantemium in half shade; they burn out otherwise. I've noticed, at least considering light, that i should take any advice and take it a notch down, ie. everything i've read put's calla lilly as either full sun or part sun, but trying to grow it outside of deeper shade always destroys the plant here (not orchids, but i am a bit more experienced with some other plants, at least enough to be certain of things.) You have no bloody idea how much all of this insight helps.

I have a 'raised bed', some stones piled in front of a wall that creates a narrow flower bed. Right now, it's filled with soil, but i planed to either re-do it and change the soil, or completley remove it. Recieves good, filtered light all summer long (a pommegranate right above it and a medium sized lemon tree to the west), but gets pretty much the same sun as the cymb gets right now. Could it end up worthwile to swap the soil with plant material and filling it with cymbs/zygos? The stones itself are not 'wild', they are cut slabs, with pretty smooth-ish top and bottom, and the construction itself makes for a bloody excellent drainage and is well within reach of my rainwater hose (got a small pump in a rainwater collector/well). Would get rained on, but i already use rainwater for all my orchids, so i don't know how much of a diference that makes.

I will most deffinitley check out the websites sooner than later as i am extremly keen on filling out my front yard (not large, but enough).

To make sure i understood correctly, i should get sarco the same treatmant, just switching direct exposure to sun to half-shade or filtered? Would underneath a lemon tree be fine? (On a wall, gets 2-3 h of sun, but spread into like 10-30 minute interwals during some 6ish hours usually; rest of the day it's just filtered sunlight).

---------- Post added at 08:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca View Post
I previously lived not far from where Roberta now lives. Your main issues will be low winter temperatures combined with cool rain. Some orchids are fine with that, especially if it's a dry winter. Others cannot tolerate either cool temperatures or cool rain.
My winters are not particulary dry, as the drying northen wind is absent. In its stead, it blows from the south-southwest, from the sea, and that brings water. I belive this years mean humidity was 60%+, counting both winter and summer (was less in winter, some 50-60%, but that is still some 20-50% more than averaging trough the year than when i was a kid. But sonsidering her cymbs get wet, and her conditions are very much alike (down to Roberta saying she doesn't get a full days of sun, like me), i don't particually fear getting them out in the open.

My main issues seem to be snails, the dawnfall of my D. nobile. Ate it just as it budded last winter. I wanted to cry.

Last edited by Kittyfrex; 08-25-2024 at 03:53 AM..
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  #26  
Old 08-25-2024, 05:30 AM
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After my dendrobium Unicum (one of its blooms) eaten by a catapilliar I got awful angry and bought something I hope will take care of that problem. I hope you find something to give the snails second thoughts!
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Old 08-25-2024, 05:34 AM
Kittyfrex Kittyfrex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterdog111 View Post
After my dendrobium Unicum (one of its blooms) eaten by a catapilliar I got awful angry and bought something I hope will take care of that problem. I hope you find something to give the snails second thoughts!
It's usually my feet that do it. I have tortoises of an endangared, native species, so i am keen on not using chemicals. What grows connected to the garden doesn't even get artificial fertilizer, just leaf litter and what the animals leave behind.
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Old 08-25-2024, 06:29 AM
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Ive read that copper tape works, but I dont know how you could work that into a natural setting. Oh well
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Old 08-25-2024, 12:34 PM
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I would not recommend putting Cymbidiums in the ground - yes they can grow that way if the substrate is very well-drained, but you lose control. If you need to move one - or treat one that isn't doing well, or divide one that is getting too big, not so easy. That does sound like a good location for pots, though.

Winter rain is a fact of life in a Mediterranean-type climate (one of the factors that defines it, along with the dry summers...) in the monsoonal pattern that prevails in much of the world, summers are the time for heavy rain (and cloud cover, so summer sun is moderated), winters tend to be much drier (but usually with some morning dew) and brighter because of the lack of clouds.
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  #30  
Old 08-25-2024, 04:18 PM
Kittyfrex Kittyfrex is offline
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It's not directly in the ground, a bit hard to explain but i suppose i do tend to start thinking of things like months before i decide on anything. The thing with that bed is that you could put quite literally anything, it would dry well, considering the whole south part of it is very porous, no space for water to ever remain. But i suppose it is a project for another day.
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