Login
User Name
Password   


Registration is FREE. Click to become a member of OrchidBoard community
(You're NOT logged in)

menu menu

Sponsor
Donate Now
and become
Forum Supporter.


Many perks!
<...more...>


Sponsor
 

Google


Fauna Top Sites
Register Members Today's Posts
LOG IN/REGISTER TO CLOSE THIS ADVERTISEMENT
Go Back   Orchid Board - Most Complete Orchid Forum on the web ! > >
Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 06-30-2022, 05:45 PM
Leisesturm Leisesturm is offline
Member
 

Join Date: May 2022
Zone: 9a
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 51
Male
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xraymond View Post
I’ve tried using bark and had the same results but felt like I was still over watering. I feel like now I can put a little at a time because the moss is going to soak it up and then add more when needed. But what would you suggest or what has worked best for you. I do see how people use a mixture of both bark and moss. I’m just trying to provide the best environment for my orchids.
Those dark green leaves indicate underlighting. I suspected that already (overwatering in bark is hard to do) but this is visual confirmation. 2 oz. or an ice cube of water is a formula meant to reduce the worst effects of underlighting but the real solution is to add lights.

When you water you should aim to soak the entire pot and not hold back. A properly lit plant with adequate air movement will dry out in 3 to 7 days.

I personally either use all Sphagnum in the pot or not at all. If I use Bark then I mix it with other particulate media like Sponge Rock (3:1). Or I buy a pre-mixed orchid media suitable for the type of orchid I am potting. A few wisps of Sphagnum in a pot is not a crime but it means you have Sphagnum lying around and it is not as shelf stable as other kinds of potting media.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-30-2022, 05:47 PM
estación seca's Avatar
estación seca estación seca is online now
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 17,978
Male
Default

Have a look here at a thread about growing Phals. From the left yellow menu choose Forums then Beginners. Near the top look for the sticky thread The Phal. abuse stops here. It gets repetitive after a while so don't feel compelled to read the whole thing.
__________________
May the bridges I've burned light my way.

Weather forecast for my neighborhood
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-30-2022, 06:01 PM
Ray's Avatar
Ray Ray is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: May 2005
Member of:AOS
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 14,854
Male
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xraymond View Post
I’ve tried using bark and had the same results but felt like I was still over watering..
What you observed may not have been a watering issue at all.

As roots grow, they “tailor” themselves to function optimally in that environment. Once grown, they cannot change. Move them into a different medium, and they are immediately sub-optimal, and will start to fail. How rapidly that happens depends upon the magnitude of the difference.

That’s why it’s always best to repot just as new roots are emerging from the base of the plant.
__________________
Ray Barkalow, Orchid Iconoclast
FIRSTRAYS.COM
Try Kelpak - you won't be sorry!
Reply With Quote
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
Likes MateoinLosAngeles liked this post
  #14  
Old 07-28-2022, 02:35 PM
Acuminata Acuminata is offline
Jr. Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xraymond View Post
I’ve tried using bark and had the same results but felt like I was still over watering. I feel like now I can put a little at a time because the moss is going to soak it up and then add more when needed. But what would you suggest or what has worked best for you. I do see how people use a mixture of both bark and moss. I’m just trying to provide the best environment for my orchids.
adding just a little water at a time is a good way to accumulate too much salt/minerals(causes root death) as you never wash them out as you would when watering to the point of water running out the bottom,using a clear pot helps you to know when the medium needs water but you should try to learn how heavy the pot is when it is too dry/needs water or let it pass
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-28-2022, 02:47 PM
estación seca's Avatar
estación seca estación seca is online now
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 17,978
Male
Default

Watering sphagnum moss is different from watering bark. When the top of the moss becomes crisp, splash on a small amount of water, maybe one second under the water stream. The water diffuses throughout the moss but leaves plenty of air spaces.

Sphagnum should't be heavily watered to the point of becoming soggy except with orchids growing fast and taking up large amounts of water. Phals don't grow like that.
__________________
May the bridges I've burned light my way.

Weather forecast for my neighborhood
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 07-28-2022, 03:15 PM
Acuminata Acuminata is offline
Jr. Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca View Post
Watering sphagnum moss is different from watering bark. When the top of the moss becomes crisp, splash on a small amount of water, maybe one second under the water stream. The water diffuses throughout the moss but leaves plenty of air spaces.

Sphagnum should't be heavily watered to the point of becoming soggy except with orchids growing fast and taking up large amounts of water. Phals don't grow like that.
I grow mine in well perforated pots that allow a more even drying,grow like weeds for me,water thoroughly approx 1x/wk,the only ones I micro-dose w/ water are recent imports w/ few roots,crispy top moss is overdue for water in my growing situation
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 07-28-2022, 08:05 PM
Louis_W's Avatar
Louis_W Louis_W is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Posts: 840
Default

I'd look into Semi Hydroponic. It may work really well for a person like you (and me). It's a culture method invented by Ray. You can see explanations on how it works on this board and on rays website:

Semi-Hydroponics™ Basics › First Rays LLC

I use this method with great success. Also ray probably is a too classy to suggest you look at the products that he sells, including kelpak, but some helpful products mentioned on this thread are available there. Check it out!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 07-28-2022, 09:58 PM
Ray's Avatar
Ray Ray is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: May 2005
Member of:AOS
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 14,854
Male
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis_W View Post
Also ray probably is a too classy to suggest you look at the products that he sells, including kelpak, but some helpful products mentioned on this thread are available there. Check it out!
Thanks for the good word, but I’m sure there are several here that have gotten sick of hearing me express my enthusiasm for Kelpak!
__________________
Ray Barkalow, Orchid Iconoclast
FIRSTRAYS.COM
Try Kelpak - you won't be sorry!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 07-28-2022, 10:54 PM
Louis_W's Avatar
Louis_W Louis_W is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Albuquerque New Mexico
Posts: 840
Default

No way! My plants are all doubling their number of leads and that's all you!

Don't you agree that SH would be a good solution to the problems we are discussing here? The only downside is that they would need to get repotted again and go through that ordeal
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 07-29-2022, 08:43 AM
Ray's Avatar
Ray Ray is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: May 2005
Member of:AOS
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 14,854
Male
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis_W View Post
Don't you agree that SH would be a good solution to the problems we are discussing here? The only downside is that they would need to get repotted again and go through that ordeal
As I have no idea of the specific needs of xraymond’s plants or the growing conditions, I cannot say whether semi-hydro culture would be good or not. I’ll use my own situation as an example:

Before (PA, warm greenhouse, very humid) - Every plant I owned that I later moved to NC with me was in S/H culture and thriving.

After (NC, hot, humid deck in summer/intermediate and drier windowsill in winter) - Paphs and Phrags are still doing great, and while phals did particularly well in summer, their root systems suffered in winter, so I moved the first to sphagnum (which required changing every six months), then later into a rock wool cubes/LECA blend.
__________________
Ray Barkalow, Orchid Iconoclast
FIRSTRAYS.COM
Try Kelpak - you won't be sorry!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
forward, i’ve, moving, roots, superthrive


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:07 PM.

© 2007 OrchidBoard.com
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO v2.0.37 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Clubs vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.