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By Lorraine at 2010-02-27 21:23
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irst of all,..I’m not an expert but I have had success growing, blooming and murdering orchids since I moved to South Florida 5 years ago, (some have committed suicide on their own—or so I would like to think).
When someone says “I don’t have to do anything to grow orchids here” they might be lucky or they are lying. With the availability of orchids in our large garden centers, some people have been known to buy an orchid, keep it until it stops blooming and then (gasp) toss it out and buy a new one. Where’s the challenge doing that?
I live in an area with long hot, humid, wet summers and dryer pleasant winters (except for this year..Brrr) which is an almost ideal climate to grow orchids. Orchids need 4 main things to grow: air, light, food and water. Some orchids require more light, higher or lower temperatures, more food, and more or less water. The challenge is to find out what your orchid likes or needs.
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By Mahon at 2006-07-24 22:53
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Abstract: Recent studies upon the microbial relationships between Sybiotic Fungi and the roots of Paphiopedilum suggest an alternative and more effective medium to be used in growing plants of Paphiopedilum.
he first factor to consider when repotting a Paphiopedilum is "why?". Most people are accustomed to repotting their orchids at a certain time of year, or when it is convenient for the plant. Repotting induces expansion and growth, and reduces stress and struggle, so it is usually nessecary to repot to mantain healthy plants. But on Paphiopedilum plants, it is almost the complete opposite. One must find out how these elusive beauties grow in nature to grasp a full understanding on how to cultivate them.
First question a person must ask is where Paphiopedilums grow in nature and why they grow there. The answer is relatively complex, but the explanation is rather simple. Paphiopedilum plants normally grow in humus or on dead trees. There is a reason for growing in these spots, why not on the side of a live tree, or on a rock suitable for a lithophytic dweller?
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By Randy at 2006-05-26 17:44
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 When I first started growing orchids I had a problem with over watering. This lead me into the path of mounting. People in my local orchid society love what I've done with my mountings and consider me the "local expert". Maybe I am the Southern New Jersey expert in mounting orchids because I have lots of practice at what works and what doesn't. But I am no "expert" by any means, I just have experience.
Certain genus of orchids do very well on mounts while others don't. Most Bulbophyllums & Oncidiums are both generally good to mount, as are some species of Dendrobium. When mounting take into consideration the size the plant will grow to, not the current size. Also, take into consideration the watering requirements & the growth habit of the plant. Do careful research before deciding what plants to mount
Cork & treefern are readily available. Sometimes you can also find other types of wood available on the Internet. However, the most interesting pieces you will find are generally those you will find on your own.
Use unique materials if you can. Fresh water provides some fabulous driftwood. I have found driftwood to always be unique. Some of the pieces I've found have had indentations where there were once rocks that made great spots for putting pads of sphagnum moss.
Grape wood also provides for some unique shapes, sometimes it even comes with holes. Other wood that can be found with unique shapes are Rhododendrons & Mountain Laurels. Azalea wood never really gets large enough for mounting anything but a miniature.
If you live in an area where Cacti grow naturally large you can sometimes find the skelatal remains of one. They are expensive to buy and difficult to find on the Internet because they are all for lizards, but try one for mounting an orchid! You can fill it with ozmunda fiber or sphagnum and have yourself a great mount. Certainly a unique one.
Some of my personal favorites are root stock, especially if they've been through fresh water for a while. But even if they come straight out of the ground they can be used, you just need to let the wood season. I have also used Bald Cypress Knees for large specimens.
There are certain woods to avoid because of toxins. The majority of fruit trees, at least those that grow in the Northeastern USA contain cyanide which is in the wood just below the bark. Certain species of Oaks have concentrated amounts of tannic acid in their leaves and bark, so they should be avoided also...
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