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02-18-2016, 01:27 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 18,611
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Mine aren't fertilized enough, either! I'm steadily increasing the dose. The very base of the leaf where it is emerging should be paler green than the rest of the leaf. Maybe yours doesn't have any of the pale green.
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02-18-2016, 01:29 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 84
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I think that's probably it - thank you! Xx
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02-18-2016, 03:13 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 18,611
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Last night I looked at it. The previous sprout is clearly a new growth. But - now it's making what really does seem to be a spike. I'll take a photo when I'm home during daylight hours.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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10-01-2018, 10:37 AM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca
Mine aren't fertilized enough, either! I'm steadily increasing the dose. The very base of the leaf where it is emerging should be paler green than the rest of the leaf. Maybe yours doesn't have any of the pale green.
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Do you happen to have a photo of this pale band now? I cannot find this information anywhere else, and don't see the pale band on my vandas!
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10-01-2018, 12:01 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,170
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Please keep in mind that the concentration of fertilizer used is closely connected to the frequency of feeding.
I fed my vandas 25 PPM N daily or every other day in the summer, and a couple of times a week in the winter, and they all grew and bloomed tremendously. If I only fed once a week, I'd probably go with 100 to 125 PPM N.
I guess another question that comes to mind about Motes' feeding regimen is whether they water their plants before feeding. 1600 PPM seems "poisonous" to me if used on dry roots.
Last edited by Ray; 10-01-2018 at 12:16 PM..
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10-02-2018, 08:11 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Madrid, Spain
Posts: 119
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When I bought my TDS meter I discovered I had been watering and fertilizing my Ascocenda every single day with +500 TDS (since I moved here. Which means in my home city I would have been fertilizing around 800 TDS I guess) and I was like crapfrick but then again the plant is okay and produced tons of roots and also overcame Fusarium and produced flowers? What the actual frick is this plant?
Amazing.
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02-11-2024, 04:21 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Dec 2023
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca
Yes indeed.
I have Martin Mote's book Florida Vanda Growing Month by Month. It's... ummm... here on my desk somewhere under this neat pile of paper.... I bought it through the Motes Orchids Web site, and I strongly recommend it to anybody who wants to grow Vandas, even if you don't live in Florida.
Well, on the bookshelf is also Mote's Vandas: Their Botany, History and Culture. This is an older book which I found used from Amazon.
He writes Vandas grow constantly if light, temperature and water are correct. They grow much faster and bloom better if fertilizer is correct. They need much more fertilizer than any other orchids. He says to fertilize to the point the new pale green growing band at the base of the developing leaves is a centimeter long. If not that long, they need more nitrogen. If the band reaches 2cm long, that is too much fertilizer.
He writes that, for Vandas growing in warm and bright conditions, he fertilizes at every 5th watering. He waters at least once daily, twice during the hot dry season in Florida. So he fertilizes every 3-5 days.
When he fertilizes, he uses 20-20-20 at the rate of two tablespoons / 30ml of powder per gallon / 3.78 liters of water, or 1 gram per 2 liters. Yes! Two Tablespoons. That yields 1,600ppm of nitrogen, according to the calculator on the First Rays Web site.
The MSU nitrogen number is 13; to get to 1,600ppm you would need 9.3 teaspoons per gallon, or 3 Tablespoons plus one teaspoon. This volume of powder is about 12ml per liter.
He does say that with suboptimal light or temperatures, less fertilizer is needed. But he says always to judge fertilizer by the width of the pale green band at the bases of the developing leaves.
That is a large osmotic load for a plant. He uses hard, highly mineralized Florida well water in between, and to dilute his fertilizer. I guess strong Vandas aren't too concerned with high osmotic loads. Motes wins awards.
I have warm and bright conditions all year. I fertilize at almost every watering, and Motes fertilizes at every fifth watering, so I should be using about 1600/5 = 320ppm or 1.8 teaspoons per gallon / 2.4ml per liter of MSU powder.
I have noticed my growth bands are less than a centimeter wide, so it's time to binge.
In the Month by Month book he also discusses magnesium, which is not mentioned in the older book. If your fertilizer doesn't have it, you need to alternate Epsom salts solutions with fertilizer. The book is in this neat pile of paper that I don't want to disturb just now so I will have to write about that later. The MSU from First Rays has magnesium so I haven't bothered with the Epsom salts.
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Do you still follow this mantra? It seems in line with what I have heard
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night, rain, day, soak, water, kelpmax, roots, fertilizer, morning, ascocentrum, week, vases, spike, gallon, time, msu, vanda, fill, cools, bottle, spray, plants, 12-hour, 175ppm, soaking |
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