Culture Question on N Houmeiden

[Shoreguy]

Originally Posted by Pattywack

I do have a sunny window I could try, probably better than a dark closet lol. I assumed the stronger bulb was my issue with this one. I also have Byakko which is said to be a version of Setsuzan? Byakko is growing under the same light and has beautiful variegation, always has had.

Do you recommend direct sun for Setsuzan? I could put her in a window of any direction though you grew yours in western exposure. I would love to see her as she was prior to this winter. Thanks for your advice, I’ll move her and see how she responds!

I hope your Houmeiden develops the variegation for you!

Direct sun might be a problem as it could cause burns. Do you have a window with a bug screen or a window sill with a super light curtain next to the window allowing the plant to be placed behind it?

[Pattywack]

I was afraid of direct sun on her. I do have screens on my windows though our sills are not deep enough for her pot and the plant is pretty big. I have areas or tables in front of windows that could accommodate the plant. South facing windows will have the longest light exposure and I have my lights on my Neos from 8am to 11pm.

If we could ever get a beautiful sunny day it would be very helpful. I could pop her into the sun when available and suplement with my lights. Moving closer to the lights may help as well.

Seems Setsuzan has been a questionable plant for others as far as how much light. I’ve searched the forum here and there never has been a definite answer. I remember Satomi saying they may burn easily so medium light is best. I’m willing to try the stronger light, just no direct sun. We’ll see... Thank you!

[Shoreguy]

Also, when increasing the amount of sun markedly, it’s best to do it in stages allowing the plant to acclimate to its new situation.

---------- Post added at 06:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:02 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Pattywack

I was afraid of direct sun on her. I do have screens on my windows though our sills are not deep enough for her pot and the plant is pretty big. I have areas or tables in front of windows that could accommodate the plant. South facing windows will have the longest light exposure and I have my lights on my Neos from 8am to 11pm.

If we could ever get a beautiful sunny day it would be very helpful. I could pop her into the sun when available and suplement with my lights. Moving closer to the lights may help as well.

Seems Setsuzan has been a questionable plant for others as far as how much light. I’ve searched the forum here and there never has been a definite answer. I remember Satomi saying they may burn easily so medium light is best. I’m willing to try the stronger light, just no direct sun. We’ll see... Thank you!

Try putting it on a table that gets maximum amount of sun through a bug screen. Don’t bother moving it around back and forth between that location and under the lights even on cloudy days. Through a bug screen means not having to acclimate it. You have a solution that should work.

[Hakumin]

According to my Korean and Japanese sources, Houmeiden is best grown in these conditions:

On the cooler end of the temperature range, with temperatures not going above 82F for long periods.

Lower light, approximating 70% to 80% shade cloth.

Most importantly, with good humidity that never really goes below 60% for long periods, with an approximate average of 75%

[Shoreguy]

Originally Posted by Hakumin

According to my Korean and Japanese sources, Houmeiden is best grown in these conditions:

On the cooler end of the temperature range, with temperatures not going above 82F for long periods.

Lower light, approximating 70% to 80% shade cloth.

Most importantly, with good humidity that never really goes below 60% for long periods, with an approximate average of 75%

Thanks, Hakumin

The temperature condition, I have been meeting except possibly during the summer on clear days but that is now being corrected by the second condition.

The lower light condition, I now am correcting.

The humidity condition I cannot in anyway reasonably meet during the winter. I will have to see what happens with my improving the light situation. Hopefully the humidity recommendation is more important for the plant growing well and not so much geared to achieving the desired inner variegation on the newest leaves.

[Hakumin]

Originally Posted by Shoreguy

Thanks, Hakumin
Hopefully the humidity recommendation is more important for the plant growing well and not so much geared to achieving the desired inner variegation on the newest leaves.

I was told that that the humidity paired with the lower temperatures is the most important aspect for specifically the variegation and not just growth.

[Shoreguy]

Originally Posted by Hakumin

I was told that that the humidity paired with the lower temperatures is the most important aspect for specifically the variegation and not just growth.

Sounds like I’m doomed to failure wrt Houmeiden variegation as the lower temperatures in winter is combined with my low humidity. I refuse to use a humidifier and spraying is only temporary. But at least I now know what is causing the lack of inner variegation.

At least I get ruby root tips but will have to see whether that persists with the decrease in light which I will still attempt.

[Orchid_Tapestry]

Just a suggestion Guy...

If you were really wanting the variegation, have you tried growing in the bathroom under a small fluorescent light if no natural light is available. The humidity from daily showers do wonders for any plants I'm having trouble with.

[Shoreguy]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I grow under natural sunlight and do not want to get involved with florescent lights.

[EmoryG]

I may be a bit late on this one. I lost almost all variegation (white on new and emerging leaves) after a few months of receiving my plant (from Satomi). This plant was labeled as a cutting from the original plant and so I suspected my culture over the genetics. I moved it to a much shadier part of my GH (near my Phals) and the leaves are now displaying the classing white characteristics. I doubt the roots will be as pink, I will probably have to fine tune the light (increasing it) to get both features.

I also moved a few more of my tigers into shadier conditions at that time and found that they also displayed more white markings.

Now I just need to find a place to keep my Hokage to get it to develop white markings again.