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  #11  
Old 04-09-2016, 01:55 PM
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estación seca estación seca is offline
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Design Considerations? Cabinet, Fish Tank &amp; Terrarium Male
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LOL can you imagine what real estate agents think when they are called to sell an orchidist's / aquarist's / frogkeeper's house?
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2016, 02:10 AM
Trollsvans Trollsvans is offline
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A good project to spend some time on!

A few thoughts:
Are the tanks framed? If they are, I'd say it complicates things a bit (when getting a waterproof seal along the top rim of the tank).

Glassy plastics like polycarbonate and acrylic don't do well with moisture: they expand on the wet side and flex.
For aquaria this is rarely an issue due to the thickness, but I don't think you'll want it that thick for a canopy.
I have 3 mm pmma for my vertical plantation, and it bends visibly when I water it. It's a 60x60 cm footprint and in five minutes it transforms from a flat piece to a parabolic wok pan: it's cracked in three places due to the tension.

A structure fitting on the outside of the tank will draw moisture by capillary action; it'll get stuck between the structure and the tank and either degrade the wood sealant or worse: degrade the cabinet.
This is critical if you go with a misting system.
(see image "leak.jpg")

For tanks this small, the weight of a thinner glass canopy (say 3-4 mm) is negligible; that'd be my choice.
Sides, backside and an upper front rim for stability
(image "canopy.jpg")
A top box of 4 mm plywood housing lights and a fan to fit on top of it should be no problem to make.

For glass-to-glass silicone sealant, check with your local pet store or aquarium society; they ought to know which brands are safe.

For wood sealant, check with the aquarium society, ask for the malawi tank builders what they use to seal their backgrounds with.
In Sweden the two-component epoxy varnish Epolan V is most popular (it's a floor varnish, actually), I'm not sure whether that's the type or a local brand though.

For the cabinet, go with 2x3" wood beams and a 20 mm marine plywood top. Remember to seal all edges with epoxy varnish!
This design will do for the smaller tank: aquariumstand134.jpg Photo by butacska | Photobucket
The longer tank might need a vertical beam like this:
http://www.aquariumlife.net/images/Day2.jpg

Adjustable feet might also be a good idea, in part to get the cabinet surface absolutely level, in part to make sure it doesn't skew diagonally.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Leak.jpg (6.4 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg Canopy.jpg (9.7 KB, 18 views)
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2016, 05:27 AM
Triffid Triffid is offline
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Thank you so much for all the information! Have given me a few things to re-consider, and yes I shall not be rushing this project in any way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans View Post
A few thoughts:
Are the tanks framed? If they are, I'd say it complicates things a bit (when getting a waterproof seal along the top rim of the tank).

Glassy plastics like polycarbonate and acrylic don't do well with moisture: they expand on the wet side and flex.
For aquaria this is rarely an issue due to the thickness, but I don't think you'll want it that thick for a canopy.
I have 3 mm pmma for my vertical plantation, and it bends visibly when I water it. It's a 60x60 cm footprint and in five minutes it transforms from a flat piece to a parabolic wok pan: it's cracked in three places due to the tension.
The tanks have those plastic bases, and the smaller has a plastic top rim, but other than that they are unframed. Though it may be possible to carefully remove the top edge of the plastic…. Maybe!?

This is good information regarding the Polycarbonate and Acrylic, something I was not entirely aware of, and a little surprised at this as Polycarbonate is often used in greenhouses and even conservatories. Mind you was also reading that it has to be replaced every 5 years or so, which was making me question my choice of material. Now however, definitely considering not using Polycarbonate. Glass, like you mention, may indeed be the best option. If the cabinet is, as the tanks are now, in the corner of a room it would also mean that it would potentially only have to have glass on the 2 visible sides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans View Post
A structure fitting on the outside of the tank will draw moisture by capillary action; it'll get stuck between the structure and the tank and either degrade the wood sealant or worse: degrade the cabinet.
This is critical if you go with a misting system.
(see image "leak.jpg")
Good advice and a concern.

If you visit DavBis’s thread, likely you have already. Warm orchidarium 750l
This is more how my mind was starting to wander with the design, so the tanks would end up being open topped within the entire structure. Two sides visible, two sides not.

Was thinking of making it wider on two sides (L shaped), this in turn means the need for proper drainage system including taps is also in consideration. Creating a system that prevents too much excess (or stops any) water getting to where it may cause problems, and keeping the moisture in the places where I want it to remain. May need to create a lip, or small guttering system, around sides of the tanks to address this concern.

But as you mention, protecting any wood used from soaking up moisture, warping, rotting etc., is something I really need to get right in the first place.

I know that Acrylic paint once dry is pretty much water-proof. A paint stained pair of craft trousers has been through over 10 years worth of washes with the paint streaks remaining unabated has proven that to me! Though I can be pretty certain that it will be flexible but not crack like thicker sheets of Acrylic & Polycarbonate glazing, I do not know with certainty how well it would stand up to this type of environment on a continual basis. Considering experimenting with small pieces of plywood covered in acrylic paint (as well other protective substances) and placing them directly in water over time – this excessive exposure may be a good way for me to compare options and as this is not planned for this year will certainly provide plenty of time to test various products.

I have even been pricing and researching up on Aluminium sheet materials, which if nothing else may provide a flexible enough material to work with, which can be placed on the top of the base cabinet. It does however produce a new set of considerations regarding final construction, Aluminium Corrosion Resistance - Aluminium Design

One of the aspects of the design I am also considering is the ability to dismantle and reassemble the sections (at least partially). Would mean all sections would have to fit exactly, protection of susceptible materials paramount, but would also allow for replacement of parts rather than a full reconstruction potentially a viable option. Rubber seals would then have to be considered though. So if one section of it starts to fail, I would not necessarily have to replace the whole structure. The base cabinet however would remain solid in design & build, as it would be the foundation for the rest of the structure. If I go with this option however, it brings up other designs aspects to consider and I will have to make sure that I do not lose the final plans.

It may sound weird but it's in my head (terrible place), please excuse the ramble.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans View Post
In Sweden the two-component epoxy varnish Epolan V is most popular (it's a floor varnish, actually), I'm not sure whether that's the type or a local brand though.
Thanks for the tip. Can’t seem to find this product in the UK, so may be a brand only found elsewhere. But there should be equivalent products available here. Will just have to do some digging, was even looking at Yacht Varnish for the base cabinet, so may just have to revisit that avenue of investigation also.

Yes, I will be heading to the local Aquarium & Reptile store for a good chat with the owners, as well as doing more checking up on the various aquarium societies and forums before I finalise any aspect of this project. “Seal all edges with epoxy varnish!” Got it, will do!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans View Post
Adjustable feet might also be a good idea, in part to get the cabinet surface absolutely level, in part to make sure it doesn't skew diagonally.
Good advice, the floor it will be on is solid concrete but not certain that it is entirely level. Don’t want to end up with something that resembles the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Thank you so much again for all your comments, advice, images and links.
A lot to consider and plan around, but it keeps me from terrorizing the neighbourhood at least!
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2016, 07:07 AM
Trollsvans Trollsvans is offline
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Did a bit of digging between replies: PC is less prone to warping due to humidity than PMMA, but as you say; moot point. The light will age and degrade any plastic anyway.

You can very likely remove the whole rim if it's plastic; it's only for aesthetic purposes (and keeping the glass cover in place); no structural use.

With all things included; building a sturdy cabinet, lighting boxes, misting systems and raised canopies for plants and all... should you really be clinging on to old tanks?
I know it's a few quid more to go all new, but since we're not talking humongous custom tanks here, going all new sounds far more appealing to me.
No seams or joints to conceal, no scratches or old lime aggregations to mar the view..

I'd avoid single-component acrylic paints on any surface that has direct or common contact with the water or the plants unless I have a full list of components, degradation estimates and proof that they're not leaking toxins into the water.
The lower cabinet sections could manage with yacht varnish or similar heavy duty laqueur, but other than that; epoxy.
If it's good enough for malawi and marine aquarists, it's good enough for orchids.

Do please elaborate on the dismantling idea; I'm curoius about it.

A few inspirational links:
Ryan Benzie Vivarium
https://www.flickr.com/photos/297418...7623031340089/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/297418...7623154473638/
http://www.fotografiewimvanvelzen.nl...-004-007gr.jpg
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...41efba5037.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/1...2342de5b_b.jpg
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2016, 09:20 AM
Triffid Triffid is offline
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Awesome! Just in time for lunch break too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans View Post
You can very likely remove the whole rim if it's plastic; it's only for aesthetic purposes (and keeping the glass cover in place); no structural use.
Good to know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans View Post
With all things included; building a sturdy cabinet, lighting boxes, misting systems and raised canopies for plants and all... should you really be clinging on to old tanks?
I know it's a few quid more to go all new, but since we're not talking humongous custom tanks here, going all new sounds far more appealing to me.
I have four tanks in total and spent… wait for it… a grand total of £45 for all of them including original cabinets of the two in questions.

One is my quarantine tank for if any fish get sick so is currently in storage, a gift from Hubby’s work colleague who didn’t want it any more. The smallest is now home to my Neo falcata costing £15 new and was the original quarantine tank.
Of the tanks being talked about previously, the smaller one was £30 second hand, and the large one was free because previous owners were talking about just chucking it away.
All of them in such good nick, that it seems rather wasteful to me to purchase more. No scratches, none that I could see any way. They may be old but there is honestly nothing wrong with them.

And with final decorative aspect heading towards Steam-punk Victorian, using these tanks should not detract from the overall final look. But structural design is of course where I should and will begin, “Function over fashion”.

I know and understand what you’re saying though and it may be the best option in the long run depending on final designs. Would also mean more tanks to convert in to straight forward terrariums... But I think Hubby may have a fit if I talk about making or buying more fish tanks at this point in time.

Don’t worry, wont be using acrylic in areas exposed to life etc. But was thinking about it as an overall protection more for the Base Cabinet. Sorry should have specified more accurately. But Yacht varnish is now looking like a favourite for the cabinet part!...
Epoxy! Got it! sorry, reminding me crafty friends when they speak of evo-stick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans View Post
Do please elaborate on the dismantling idea; I'm curious about it.
Think giant 3D jigsaw, but not so many pieces.

Certain pieces of furniture can be dismantled and reassembled, but there will be key piece(s) that once placed holds the structure together, sometimes this can be as simple as a pin or bolt. If you think about certain methods in carpentry, similar to Dove-tail and other interlocking pieces you may get an idea of where my head was at when thinking about it. Overall think of the base cabinet, structure around fish tank, terrarium upper section and roof rig being the four main pieces of the puzzle. Would likely mean having to use more rubber seals and the like, as well as appropriate sealants where needed, but it may just be a viable design consideration.

You can often get shelves and side units that can be added to because the structure usually has holes which another unit can be placed on top of – depending on quality these structures can either be very weak or indeed extremely strong. Now I am not talking about using these type of shelves or of adding to the structure in the future, but I hope you get the idea.

Now going to enjoy a cup of tea and the links you’ve shared.
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