Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
I don't think UV is too much of a problem, but burning can be from direct heating, or from excessive heating of the plant tissues by exposure to to much light intensity. Leaf tissue can only dissipate the heat at a certain rate, so if the temperature and light intensity together are greater than what can be dumped, it's "scorch city!"
Some plants simply won't bloom well if exposed to too much light. Some of the best phalaenopsis plants I have ever seen were grown in almost complete darkness in an algae covered greenhouse.
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Thanks for the reply Ray,
I think I noticed stunted leaf span on a phal. and on my B. cucullata from very high light (don't have enough experience in growing to confirm that). If my observation is correct than perhaps the phals you saw have larger leaves from less than optimal light which equals to more storage to compensate (or actually more beneficial) for high photosynthetic rate in higher light?
If that is true, perhaps we should exploit growing larger and longer leaves by using less than optimal light during leaf development period and then move them into very high light?

I had a B. nodosa about 2 feet away from the light but was turning very purple (about 1000fc for 14 hours). I guess my original post is more of a question for catts/brassavolas...do I
a) maintain subtle pigmentation and know that they are receiving optimal light or
b) Push the limit and turn it into a purple Barney
I was also curious if too much anthocyanin would actually result in lower photosynthetic rate.
---------- Post added at 03:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:21 PM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by zxyqu
Also, I would guess that some Phals can't produce this effect, as I've had several novelties suffer burning without any indication of leaf pigmentation.
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Did this happen under a fluorescent light?