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08-18-2019, 02:56 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Zone: 9b
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnonYMouse
I'm confused. You're telling us that the two flowers are from the same plant? Are you sure it's not two plants in the same pot? Because each flower looks normal if we were discussing different plants. If they are from a single plant, surely not from the same pseudobulb. Label the pseudobulbs and see if it happens again next blooming season. Keep a record, take close-up photos of flower details and the plant.
And what do you mean by "pod"? Pot? Pseudobulb? Sheath? "Pod" usually refers to a seed capsule.
I think we are discussing two different problems. The first being flowers aborting and the second is different looking blooms on what seems to be one plant (the normal flower looks different between the two pics, too.) Are the pictures on the first page of the same flowers as on the second page?
Back to the original problem. After the buds drop, have you looked for pests?
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The theme is the death of flowers when they are going to open. The first photos I put are those that have not yet opened and already a flower is dying. The second photos are from another plant that did the same to me but she took out a sheat with a normal flower and the other one deformed, the second sheat aborted the two flowers. The color change is because it opens orange until it reaches true red about two days later, I took a picture of the flower after it rains so it looks full of water. I keep a record of all cattleyas, with photos of the flowering and dates. In this year I have had less flowers in some plants and an advance in flowering time. On insects I can only fumigate because they are outside, and yes, I have seen thrips but the insecticide I have found is in dust and does not say that any solution can be made, if you can guide me with this, I would appreciate it. Greetings.
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08-19-2019, 05:05 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Australia, North Queensland
Posts: 5,212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merita
I took a picture of the flower after it rains so it looks full of water.
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Do your orchids grow outdoors? And did you get much rain recently? If so ----- then could maybe consider whether or not water got caught up either inside any sheaths, or in the gap between pseudobulb and the pseudo-bulb's outer covering (- the covering that usually splits and peels away naturally). Sometimes, if water gets trapped in some places, it might lead to some issues. This might not be what's happening. But could take a look into it.
Merita ----- for all photos - see if you can resize them to 1024 pixels across in the horizontal direction before uploading ----- just to make the photos big enough for details to be clearly seen.
Last edited by SouthPark; 08-19-2019 at 05:09 AM..
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08-19-2019, 10:37 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Zone: 9b
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPark
Do your orchids grow outdoors? And did you get much rain recently? If so ----- then could maybe consider whether or not water got caught up either inside any sheaths, or in the gap between pseudobulb and the pseudo-bulb's outer covering (- the covering that usually splits and peels away naturally). Sometimes, if water gets trapped in some places, it might lead to some issues. This might not be what's happening. But could take a look into it.
Merita ----- for all photos - see if you can resize them to 1024 pixels across in the horizontal direction before uploading ----- just to make the photos big enough for details to be clearly seen.
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Yes, they have received enough rain, sometimes I can protect them and sometimes not. The cover of the pseudobulbs, I open it when it is filled with water so that it does not accumulate. Sometimes a flower dies and the other opens in the same sheat. Perhaps there are several factors that are affecting flowering and I have seen thrips, ants and some mites. There are three plants that have sheats opening, I will put them here to see how they are. Greetings.
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08-24-2019, 11:21 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Zone: 9b
Location: Orlando, Florida
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I return to the issue to put the flowers they are opening, they all have as bites of insects and where the sepalous do not get to cover the whole flower the problem becomes greater. I have seen yellow and black mosquitoes, thrips, and other rare insects, not in quantities but since they are outside, they are exposed to everything. The Orthene here is a powder for fire ants and does not accept water to dissolve. For Amazon they are selling one at 97% that I don't know if it could be used for orchids. If someone could put a picture of another insecticide, I would appreciate it. Thank you all.
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08-24-2019, 05:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Australia, North Queensland
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Merita --- have you got carbaryl and/or bifenthrin? These don't have staying-power, but applying them during times that count can definitely help ward-off the biting animals. Can keep them at bay. You can test them on a single orchid flower to begin with. These products won't harm the orchid when sprayed at the recommended dosage/concentration.
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08-24-2019, 05:58 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Zone: 9b
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPark
Merita --- have you got carbaryl and/or bifenthrin? These don't have staying-power, but applying them during times that count can definitely help ward-off the biting animals. Can keep them at bay. You can test them on a single orchid flower to begin with. These products won't harm the orchid when sprayed at the recommended dosage/concentration.
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I don't have those products but I can buy them, I was looking for the Orthene because it was the one they recommended. I also thought of the malathion. I fear insecticides because once I used one that was for roses and killed many phals, that's why I ask now. I'm going to Home Depot to see if they have those. Thank you very much for your help.
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08-24-2019, 06:35 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
Posts: 14,271
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I have used Orthene and had no bad effects. Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 was great, but the formulation is no longer for sale, They have another formulation that they're now selling in place of it... I can't vouch for the efficacy because I haven't tried it (when imidacloprid started showing up on "banned" lists I laid in a rather large supply of the original formulation so I'm set for several years, I use the stuff very sparingly and surgically for specific problems, not as a preventative) But the new Bayer product is worth a try as a broad-spectrum pesticide that doesn't seem to harm flowers. (If you get that, let us know whether it does the harm to bugs that it is supposed to)
I looked around, I think the new product is called BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect Disease and Mite Control Concentrate, there's also a dilute "ready to use" form (not cost-effective if you're going to use much of it but might be OK if you just want to try it)
Last edited by Roberta; 08-24-2019 at 06:53 PM..
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08-24-2019, 09:45 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Zone: 9b
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta
I have used Orthene and had no bad effects. Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 was great, but the formulation is no longer for sale, They have another formulation that they're now selling in place of it... I can't vouch for the efficacy because I haven't tried it (when imidacloprid started showing up on "banned" lists I laid in a rather large supply of the original formulation so I'm set for several years, I use the stuff very sparingly and surgically for specific problems, not as a preventative) But the new Bayer product is worth a try as a broad-spectrum pesticide that doesn't seem to harm flowers. (If you get that, let us know whether it does the harm to bugs that it is supposed to)
I looked around, I think the new product is called BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect Disease and Mite Control Concentrate, there's also a dilute "ready to use" form (not cost-effective if you're going to use much of it but might be OK if you just want to try it)
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I used to buy Bayer products, with one of them I made a killing of Phals because he fell into the roots, I still have them stored in the garage. Here I put these to see if any is the one you say, I remember there were several. If it's none of these, could you send me a picture of yours and the Orthene that you use? Greetings and thanks for your help.
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08-24-2019, 10:29 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merita
I used to buy Bayer products, with one of them I made a killing of Phals because he fell into the roots, I still have them stored in the garage. Here I put these to see if any is the one you say, I remember there were several. If it's none of these, could you send me a picture of yours and the Orthene that you use? Greetings and thanks for your help.
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I'm not sure who the "he" is that fell into the roots. But I use the one on the left - 3-in-1 Insect Disease and Mite Control For Use on Trees, Shrubs, Roses and Flowers. It's a liquid concentrate. I use about 2.5 - 3 tablespoons per half gallon (5-6 tablespoons per gallon). I also add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help emulsify the concentrate, and also to facilitate its spread on the plant. I have sprayed roots, flowers, leaves, and medium and have never had a problem. If the concentrate fell into a pot, of course it could be disastrous. But at this dilution I have found it to be quite benign.
The granules designed for roses I think also contain fertilizer, and the product is scattered over roots - that would be too strong for orchids. Save that for roses or other plants that grow in dirt.
The Orthene product that I use is Orthenex, which is an oily liquid conceentrate. (I think I also have another similar green plastic bottle just labeled "Orthene" in the garage) The stuff really stinks...and I think the Bayer's kills more kinds of pests. I only use the Orthenex as a "back up" or "second product" for an infestation that needs extra "persuasion" since it does smell so bad. This is the stuff :
Last edited by Roberta; 08-24-2019 at 10:44 PM..
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08-25-2019, 06:15 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Zone: 6a
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,452
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I had used the Bayer imidacloprid products for years for scale and a couple of years ago I discovered that is wasn't working anymore. I had developed a resistance issue. The scale seemed to be laughing at my spraying. I went looking for something else and heard good stuff about AzaMax so I opted to try that and it has worked great.
For scale, I do 3 sprays at 7-10 day intervals and it knocks out the scale. This past winter was the first in a few years where I wasn't dealing w/scale all winter. As soon as the weather warmed and I was able to open windows, I did start finding some scale but the winter was worry free.
Reading the label...it's also good for thrips and many, many other pests, including spider mites.
This is not a systemic, it works on contact and via ingestion by the pests. It is a growth regulator and it's active ingredient is Azadirachtin...which comes from the Neem seed. I have only had issues w/scale so I can't speak from experience to it's control on other pests but if it works as well w/those as it does w/scale...it will be great.
As a side note...like Neem, it stinks like crazy but the smell dissipates mostly after it dries. Use gloves and protection when using...like you would w/any other insecticide. It may be neem based but it's still an insecticide so it can harm bees if you actually hit the bees so only use it early in the morning or late in the evening when they aren't as active. Personally, I only do sprays very early in the morning.
I get it on Amazon and most Hydroponics stores also carry it.
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