S/H: Ways to help Catt produce new roots & transition?
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  #1  
Old 02-11-2019, 09:40 PM
emmajs243 emmajs243 is offline
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S/H: Ways to help Catt produce new roots &amp; transition?
Default S/H: Ways to help Catt produce new roots & transition?

Let me start by saying...Ray, don't be mad at me if I am freaking too early still!

It has officially been a month since I transitioned my first "test" Catt into s/h and I am worried I have set my plant up for failure and killed it! I know Ray, I know, it's only been a month, things can look bad, and just DONT panic and repot back to bark because this will definitely stress it more!

when I repotted the orchid she had new roots coming out, not many but a few green little tips breaking out. First, I feel like I should have waited for a stronger flourish of new roots to appear.

Second, The act of repotting her was just absolutely horrific due to me just.....oh I can't even say the words. I basically broke off one of the two larger new roots and a pseudobulb....I'm pretty sure I did other damaging things too although I can't remember them....it was bad guys....it was my first repot of a Catt and first repot to s/h and idk....Catt roots are not as flexible as phals and I wasn't expecting it! BUT, it happened and I'm still trying to recover! But now, every time I look at my little s/h plant she just reminds me of all the trauma I caused her!

The tiny little root tips that were once growing strong have now completely stopped growing out, her once plump little pseudobulbs now are getting wrinkles through them, AND she only has one surviving new root that is still actually growing. I feel like when I broke the other longer root and did so much other damage I should have stopped and aborted the s/h attempt with her right then!

So please tell me, is there ANYTHING I can do to help her along or encourage new root growth? I have been using a kelp extract growth stimulant called "Orchid Love" Idk if anyone has heard of it....I found it on Amazon before I knew Ray made his own! Also, I fertilize with the MSU fertilizer and she is on a heat mat constently in the warmest room. She even has a water resistant thermometer sitting on top of her LECA beads with her and she never goes below 70 F. I have zero issues with a "dry line" or really anything. Just wondering if I can do anything to help her pull through this!

I have heard about rooting gels and have highly considered it but I was hoping It wouldn't come to that. Idk. I am a tad weary of them...maybe undeservingly? I just feel like if I was more experienced then I would use them but being new and having zero experience with them, I worry they might do more harm then good due to user error.
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:03 AM
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What are your growing conditions? Temperature, light, humidity? How often are you watering? When you water, do you completely fill the container to the brim, then let it drain? Do you ever let the reservoir go dry?
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:04 AM
emmajs243 emmajs243 is offline
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Hey thank you ES for responding! I forgot that we don't all actually REALLY know each other sometimes! I feel like I have posted SO much that I worry everyone has my conditions memorized by now! 😉

Temp stays a tad 80-82 F with a slight drop at nighttime but only around 73-75 F. In addition the Catt is on a heat mat.

Let me add she is a seedling that was only in a 2 & 1/2 inch pot. I was hoping the girl would have had an easier transition as a seedling versus a mature plant....Idk if this is true at all but just something i had seen brought up so that's why I chose a seedling plus she WAS putting out new roots.

Humidity is always around 55%-65% for her. Because she is a seedling, I do keep her on lower light (like advised....I think maybe by you! Maybe not? Can't remember!) So although she is in a room with a South and South east facing window she is quite a few feet back so gets good morning light and more indirect light consistently throughout the rest of the day.

The reservoir never runs dry and none of her LECA ever has become dry. No top layer nothin. I have to top off her reservoir about every 3-4 days (I think the heat mat speeds up the evaporation) and she isn't in a huge deli container but more like an oversized SOLO cup. I wasn't sure if "The Dry Line" would cause me issues in the 32 oz container with how small she was.

Every watering I do completely flush the container for a good minute or two. I do a good rinse of all the leca and also do many times of filling the cup to the brim with water and letting it drain quickly.

After I flush the pot thoroughly with water I do a quick flush of my fertilizer mixed with Orchid Love (fertilizer is at 1/6 tsp MSU per gallon...recommended is 1/2 tsp/gal during winter. I was worried on what amount to do in s/h however so kicked it down....maybe too much?). And the orchid Love is at 3/4 strength.

In addition, I do have fans running through all my orchid rooms. Just not directly on the plants but rotating pointed away from them.

About a week after transitioning she started having white mold covering her pseudobulbs and roots. About a week ago i finally flushed her like normal then gave her a quick spritz of half strength physan 20 and let it sit for a few minutes then flushed afterwards. Since then, the mold has disappeared and stopped taking over.
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:22 AM
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I wonder whether what you report as mold is rather a mass of scale or mealybug insects. White mold doesn't generally grow on green pseudobulbs. Both of these insects can look like a patch of white mold. Seedlings won't grow at all when these are present. Physan will not likely kill them.

For a seedling I would consider watering every day, until the roots grow into the moist zone. If the roots get too dry for too long, they die.
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:42 AM
emmajs243 emmajs243 is offline
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Oh! Very good to know ES! Thank you! I will kick my watering up! I definitely can quite easily and am willing to I just didn't know if less watering would be better then more or what to do! I will kick up her waterings!!

And ya on the mold/whatever substance....that's what I was told too is that it should stay only on dead tissue. It was like a dusting at first like I poofed a cloud of flour above my plant but then kinda continued spreading to a cob webby type appearance even dusting the LECA. I posted photos of it and asked on here worried it might be snow mold because that is the only thing i could find that resembled it but i ended up finding other videos and photos of this "white mold" during the transition period to s/h.

But it did eventually begin to dust the pseudobulbs and green roots and that's when I finally did the physan 20....about ten days ago and have had zero issues since. The seedling next to that hadn't been repotted or anything and was well alive also even started to show the early "dust" signs of this stuff and I just lowered that ones humidity and it quickly disappeared....

It definitely didn't have the "fuzzy" look of mealybugs I know that much. Scale, not too sure I don't think so but, I really am not too experienced of educated on white scale. I would guess since Physan worked it was some sort of mold? Idk, I found it weird if many experience it during the transition to s/h why hasn't it been named it identified officially yet? BUT, there are so many molds and micro organisms im positive it's a much more complicated process then it sounds!

Thank you for the help and advise ES!
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