Phals in S/H - Orchid Board

tinabee · #1 03-24-2010, 03:31 PM

Hi, everyone. I'm new to the forum, but I'm not new to owning orchids. However, I am new to S/H. After losing a lot of my orchids to sphag in the beginning, and being less than enamored of bark mixes, I decided to place several of my phals in S/H the beginning of this month (March '10). Generally, I am happy with the results so far (one just put out a new bloom spike and some new roots are emerging!!), but I have concerns about the other plants.

There are approximately 4 of my phals that were in bloom when I transferred them to S/H. The reason why I did this is because they were all packed very tightly in sphag. In Florida, sphag + orchid + humidity = certain death. What I did was, I soaked the LECA in water w/ KLN for about two days before replanting in the new S/H pots. Those phals haven't dropped blooms, although a couple of the leaves look a little droopy at the bottom of the crown one one plant. These plants did not have new root growth at the time of repotting.

How much initial root loss can I expect in the beginning when these plants transition, and when should I become alarmed that things are not right? I also haven't gotten a clear answer on how often to water. I am concerned that if I water more frequently, it may possibly worsen the root rot situation. Do I water again when the reservoir is almost empty until the plants re-establish themselves? I recall reading on Ray's website that after repotting it is good to not water for a while so the roots are forced to adapt, so I'm a little confused over the watering issue.

TIA.

trdyl · #2 03-24-2010, 03:50 PM

Welcome to OB!

TIA, Expect 100% root loss at first of old roots. Hence, it is best moving them when root growth is starting. Keep them as warm as possible to encourage new growth and keep using K-L-N until you have a good set of roots. Don't let them completely dry out. I usually top off the reservoir about once a week. I also have transfered when I was not suppose to. They did get a bit droopy but bounced right back after producing new roots.

tinabee · #3 03-24-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trdyl

Welcome to OB!

TIA, Expect 100% root loss at first of old roots. Hence, it is best moving them when root growth is starting. Keep them as warm as possible to encourage new growth and keep using K-L-N until you have a good set of roots. Don't let them completely dry out. I usually top off the reservoir about once a week. I also have transfered when I was not suppose to. They did get a bit droopy but bounced right back after producing new roots.

I flush them out with each watering to keep everything fresh, which is about once a week. As far as temps go, right now we are in the mid 70's for the high and mid 50's for the low.

Yes, my next question was about how long to use the KLN for, which you pretty much answered. Can I also mix KLN with my regular orchid fertilizer (Better Gro. Orchid Plus 20-14-13)?

Thank you!-------Tina

Pilot · #4 03-24-2010, 04:14 PM

Although I agree that the old roots of a new s/h plant will be lost-- this isn't always the case. I have had several phals retain their old roots and even grow branches off of the old ones. But with that said, those roots were grown in moss-- very wet moss-- so they were, for all intents and purposes, perfectly capable to continuing on in the moist environment of the s/h.

I agree with what Ted said about keeping them warm and not too dry. My only add to it is cut the spikes. Removing the spike sends energy elsewhere in the plant and the chances of getting new roots is generally increased. Its worked for me.

Keep us updated.

tinabee · #5 03-24-2010, 04:34 PM

All of my repots were from plants that were stuck in wet sphag. Some of them were just absolutely choked in it!! I puchased one new blooming plant and when I cleaned it up less than a third of the roots were still good.

Some of my plants have either just finished opening the last bud or are still budding. I don't have the heart to cut off any spikes just yet, but will do so once the initial blooms fade.

Pilot · #6 03-24-2010, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinabee

Some of my plants have either just finished opening the last bud or are still budding. I don't have the heart to cut off any spikes just yet, but will do so once the initial blooms fade.

Hiya-- I get not having the heart to cut the spikes but I'm not leading you astray when I say it really does promote leaf and root growth that will help your plant tremendously. And next year, you're likely to have a much better display than if you were to leave the spike on and manage to save the plant. Just food for thought.

Also, in my experience, any spike I've cut off and placed in water has last me quite a long time-- many weeks in fact. I've even had spikes continue to open new blooms. So the blooms won't just wither and die as quickly as a regular cut flower.

Good luck!

Royal · #7 03-24-2010, 05:16 PM

My two cents:

Keeping things a little drier will promote root growth and stave off root rot.

Ray · #8 03-25-2010, 10:50 AM

For discussion purposes, why should being kept drier promote root growth? I have heard that many times before, but I can think of no solid reason that should be the case.

Pilot · #9 03-25-2010, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray

For discussion purposes, why should being kept drier promote root growth? I have heard that many times before, but I can think of no solid reason that should be the case.

I wonder the same thing. The few "salvage" phals I've managed to save I've kept relatively moist/humid but with good airflow. If I allow anything to dry out here in Colorado, it'll never not be dry again.

TylerK · #10 03-25-2010, 12:53 PM

For the dryness question I've found the exact opposite to be the case...there seems to be nothing like warm moist heat to get my phals in semi-hydro to start producing more roots. This includes brand new roots as well as branching old ones. In fact, the nubbins of the new roots on my plants stall if the heat and moisture level isn't kept high enough.