Lack of moisture on the surface of the pot with lecca

[Shadeflower]

I have carried on using 12-18ppm N. But I have changed my K amount

I think 5 ppm N would be too low long term. Even using just MSU I was experiencing problems at 18ppm N. With 5ppm N using the MSU formula would result in just feeding 1ppm Phosphorus which I just think would cause problems as it did for me. Just my observation which has made a huge difference for me so I will carry on promoting my belief even if it contradicts others beliefs, can't help it. I've been converted and once one has seen the light it's hard to believe otherwise.

So now I still feed 12-18ppm N but more K at 25-30 ppm

[Georg Luiz Barth]

I found something better on the market than the woolen bricks that were crumbling very easily. They are cubes between 1 and 2 cm more compacted, made with wool and volcanic rock scales and polyethylene. These cubes are also used in hydroponic systems that for some reason require more compacted materials. Well this is all new to me, I'm excited to get on with the experiments. Below is a photo of the cubes being washed by immersion in water. The initial idea would be to replace the top layer of Leca by the cubes.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

I have carried on using 12-18ppm N. But I have changed my K amount

I think 5 ppm N would be too low long term. Even using just MSU I was experiencing problems at 18ppm N. With 5ppm N using the MSU formula would result in just feeding 1ppm Phosphorus which I just think would cause problems as it did for me. Just my observation which has made a huge difference for me so I will carry on promoting my belief even if it contradicts others beliefs, can't help it. I've been converted and once one has seen the light it's hard to believe otherwise.

So now I still feed 12-18ppm N but more K at 25-30 ppm

While I obviously am not in a position to doubt your observations, your conclusions don't jibe with my own, those of others, and what the plants see in nature.

The microbiologist that collaborated on the K-Lite concept has been feeding his plants at 5 ppm N and about 1/4 ppm K daily for the last decade, and is extremely happy with the growth of his plants and has been experienced no issues.

My own feeding regimen - again accompanied by great blooming and no issues - is 100 ppm N and 5 ppm K weekly.

[Shadeflower]

Originally Posted by Georg Luiz Barth

I found something better on the market than the woolen bricks that were crumbling very easily. They are cubes between 1 and 2 cm more compacted, made with wool and volcanic rock scales and polyethylene.

they are called mini rockwool grow cubes. wool and volcanic rock is rockwool. Same stuff just in smaller cubes

edit: just found them here too, they are called cellmax. Going to get some too... I like the smaller size..

[Georg Luiz Barth]

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

they are called mini rockwool grow cubes. wool and volcanic rock is rockwool. Same stuff just in smaller cubes

edit: just found them here too, they are called cellmax. Going to get some too... I like the smaller size..

Here, this inert substrate in the form of little cubes is called "mapito", a curious name for this.... it is manufactured by Cultilène. I paid the equivalent of 4 U$$ dollars, a volume of approximately 10 liters.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

they are called mini rockwool grow cubes. wool and volcanic rock is rockwool.

“Rockwool” is molten basaltic rock spun into fibers. There is no “wool” - as in that from sheep - even associated with the material.

The Mapito material is rockwool (they call it “stonewool”) plus polyurethane foam “flakes” to keep it from compacting.

[Shadeflower]

as long as it works it can be made of wool, I know it's not actual wool, its the chemicals and high heat that turns the rock into a candyfloss texture and then cut into cubes.
It's £35 for 90l here. seems expensive but lecca is £28 and perlite is £20. Moss is far more expensive. Orchiata is £60 for 70l here.
I think I paid £100 for 50l of top quality pumice - I'm hoping to replace this for my bigger orchids in future.

[Georg Luiz Barth]

Originally Posted by Ray

“Rockwool” is molten basaltic rock spun into fibers. There is no “wool” - as in that from sheep - even associated with the material.

The Mapito material is rockwool (they call it “stonewool”) plus polyurethane foam “flakes” to keep it from compacting.

Ray, in your opinion mapito would be a good option?

[Clawhammer]

When I did s/h I would fill the container with Leca and then dump it out. I then would fill the container back up using the largest leca beads first and the smallest at the top. The smaller beads have more connection points and that creates stronger wicking action to the top.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Georg Luiz Barth

Ray, in your opinion mapito would be a good option?

I suppose, if you're looking for a sphagnum substitute.

I have never seen that product here, but I like the LECA/rockwool mix and both components hold moisture, but create spaces at the interfaces.