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  #1  
Old 01-30-2007, 10:43 PM
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Oscarman Oscarman is offline
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Default Sphag 'n' Bag Treatment

Here is the result of a Sphag 'n' Bag treatment I used on C. maxima 'Coronita'. It is a large division with few viable roots. It was placed in a large dry cleaning bag with moss in the bottom and some egg crate light diffuser on one side for plant support. It was sprayed down, the bag tied off and hung in front of my fluorescent light set up.
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  #2  
Old 01-30-2007, 10:50 PM
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Hmm. I have a Den. falcorostrum with one cane and 2 failed growths due to rot when watering. The cane is still good. It looks like the method worked for you, should I give it a go?
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2007, 11:02 PM
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Nice new growths! Congrats!
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2007, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esungirl View Post
Hmm. I have a Den. falcorostrum with one cane and 2 failed growths due to rot when watering. The cane is still good. It looks like the method worked for you, should I give it a go?
Yes, without hesitation! Sphag 'n' Bag can work wonders with a plant.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2007, 08:41 AM
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Nicely done, Dave!
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2007, 08:42 AM
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Sphag 'n' Bag Treatment Male
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The keys are high humidity, warm temperatures, and moderate light levels.

Orchids, like any other living creature, have a really strong survival drive. After we have done something to really set it back, it's almost just a case of "leave it alone" and it will recover.

However, as the setback often includes that "minor inconvenience" of no roots, the plant has no way to take up moisture, so might desiccate and die before it can recover sufficiently - and that's where we can help, by placing the plant in conditions favorable to reduced moisture loss and enhanced growth rate. In most cases warmer temperatures favor the latter, but can also lead to desiccation, as does higher light levels, so the saturated environment of a sealed "mini- greenhouse" is wonderful.

The moss does not even need to be in contact with the plant tissue - and probably shouldn't be unless that tissue is the new roots - as it (or a wadded-up paper towel or whatever) acts primarily as the moisture source for the maxed-out humidity.
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  #7  
Old 06-12-2007, 12:29 PM
Lorraine Lorraine is offline
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I have 2 Phal Heirogliphica keikis. They have lost much of the roots they had. They have 2 leaves. I soaked them in KLM root solution. Thinking about sphag and bagging them. How long can they be left in the bag. I am leaving town next week and will not be able to check them for about 8 days. I don't want to lose them. Help.
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2007, 03:56 PM
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Lorraine,
I have recently started using this method and it can take weeks before even seeing the start of results...so you should be able to leave them in there for awhile. Mine have been in bags for about 3 weeks and going on! The only reason I open my bags from time to time is if I am having a problem with fungus growing, which isn't too often. Good luck!
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Old 06-12-2007, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorraine View Post
I have 2 Phal Heirogliphica keikis. They have lost much of the roots they had. They have 2 leaves. I soaked them in KLM root solution. Thinking about sphag and bagging them. How long can they be left in the bag. I am leaving town next week and will not be able to check them for about 8 days. I don't want to lose them. Help.
Actually, I think you'll be able to answer your own question. When you see roots emerge, start thinking about repotting.
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2007, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPfeiffer View Post
Lorraine,
I have recently started using this method and it can take weeks before even seeing the start of results...so you should be able to leave them in there for awhile. Mine have been in bags for about 3 weeks and going on! The only reason I open my bags from time to time is if I am having a problem with fungus growing, which isn't too often. Good luck!
Becca, if you care to, you can spray down the whole inside with Physan 20 which should be OK for the short period (a few months) that plant will be there. Yep, sometimes it takes a while. As long as leaves (if there are any) or pseudobulbs don't turn brown and mushy, your still on the clock.
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