Hi, my name is Jill and I'm an addict...
 

:biggrin: I'm a newbie, but my love for orchids is an old one. I fell in love with them when I was about 9 years old. I visited Hawaii and stayed in a hotel where they placed a fresh orchid on your pillow everyday, after making the bed. To enter the room and be bowled over by the heavenly scent was amazing. Discovering this HUGE scent came from such an innocent looking creature was even more amazing. I vowed that, if I could I would fill my world with the scent. At that time, I was told that they were hard to grow. Times (and plants) have changed, haven't they. Thank goodness for horticulturists and botanists. I built myself a light stand years ago, and it is holding odds and ends now. I think it's time to fire it up. :muahaha: I do need help.

I am trying to rescue this On. Sharry Baby "Tricolor" (chocolate, yea! :cheer: ) Krogers had it on sale for 4.99. I'm sure it is one that has been there on my last two visits, just without the blooms. However, I just noticed the little white flecks on the leaves.

1. I'm assuming they are insects? I used a plant insecticide.
2. Also, one bulb is yellow and mottled. Please check out my pic and pass on any suggestions.
3. Also, what do I do about the extinguished spike?

Here are some set-up questions. I have a northern exposure. My house stays b/t 76 and 78 degrees. I have gravel trays, plus the light stand. I use Shultz orchid food.

1. Where should my chids be? Near my windows or on the light stand.
2. How long should my light stand be on? It's in my living room and I do enjoy the dark in the evenings.
3. Is there anyway any of my chids can rebloom at this time?
4. I read that I am supposed to prune the spent cane on the Dtps., but I don't know where I should make my cut.

Welcome to the board! Glad you chose to join! Maybe we can be of help - maybe we can offer condolences :(

The pseudobulb you show does indeed look rotted, BUT, and I say - But, I have several Brassias with similar-looking bulbs that are doing just fine. So we aren't "out of the woods" yet, but maybe soon. A couple things stick out though. You say "north window". That's pretty dim for Oncidium. They really want a lot more light. Maybe not south, but at least east or west. Lights should be on approx the same length of day as you see outside. I adjust mine approx 1 hour more or less every other month.

Not sure on the white spots. Could be insects. But could also be residues from fertilizer, or something else. Need pics.

On the old Phal spike, I would cut it off, if it were mine. Think many here favor giving the plant time to regenerate.

Ross, I've enjoyed your dialogues in other posts. Thanks for responding. Unfortunately, I do not have an east window, and my west windows are shaded by GA pines and maples. My south window is, too plus a porch overhang. That's what made me build my light stand years ago. So, my Oncidium needs to live on the stand?

OK, so lights are the ticket. Lots of folks are in the same boat you are and choose to grow totally under articial lights. Is this an option? The 4 foot shop lights would work if close enough. There are some two lamp models at Home Depot meant for kitchens, etc. that don't look too awful. An appliance timer will serve to turn them on and off.:hmm

Just re-read your post. Are the lights t8 or t12? Do you know? Are the tubes like 1"+ in diameter or skinny? Yes the orchids should be under the lights. The Oncidium needs to be real close while the Phal can be further away. Use a timer and set the on period for about 12 hours. If you want dark in evening try having it come on like 6AM and go off about 7PM or so.

Welcome Aboard the OB JILL!

Glad you joined us! I see you have fit in just fine and have gotten comfortable which is just great!
I cannot tell you anything about your lights because I grow mine outside currently, but I do agree with Ross, on your old spike and to cut it off. There have been mutiple posts on discussions of this topic of whether or not to cut the spike, you can see for yourself if you like by doing a search on the forum.
Unless the chid is a species, which you shouldn't cut the old spike from species, most say they cut the old spike off to push the energy where the plant deems necessary.
Again welcome!:cheer:

Ross The tubes are 1". I bought grow lights, but this was years ago and I know they need to be replaced. As far as whether or not they are t8 or 12, I can't remember. Which do you recommend?

Candice Thank you for the warm welcome, and I will cut the spikes. How far down should I cut 1) the oncidium and 2) the doritaenopsis? :hmm

Those are t12's (the weakest of the bunch). To switch to either t8 or, better yet, t5 you will need a new fixture like .: Sunlight Supply - horticulture and aquarium lighting systems :. Website the 24" or 48" whichever fits your stand. This will provide so much light you'll think it's in the sun! T5 is really the best and would allow you to grow Cattleyas, Dendros and other high light orchids as well as your Oncidium. Phals can be moved further away.

:welcome: Aboard Jill, great that you have found the OB. A wealth of information awaits you here and so many questions to ask as well as answer. Your love for orchids go back to a perfect addictive scenario.

As for your onc. I would leave it alone for right now until it shows signs of demise, personally I do not cut any back until I know for sure as the adults usually do die back. But I went back to look again and many of my onc when dying show signs of wrinkling pseudos and yours looks pretty plump with signs of dark spots, :scratchhead: rot it could be :nod: Onc like to be watered but can collect to much moisture within the pseudo group which could and would cause rotting. It will not hurt it to be re-potted if you have not already and if so, merely take a look at the roots in that area. Is the pseudo soft and or mushy?

As for your doritaenopsis and phalaenopsis this question has been asked many times on different forums and orchid hobbyist conversations "should I cut back the spike or should I leave it" I never cut my spikes back unless they turn brown not to mention no one cuts a flower spike in nature. Some orchids have been known to spike multiples off the adult spike over time. I have a phal that the spike did not turn brown and have had consecutive blooming since March and it's on it's third round. The one thing I look for is if my orchid is stressing and looking a bit down in the dumps and at this time I will cut the spike back brown or green to allow it to rest and regroup for the following season blooming. If you do cut the spike back cut just below the last node.

Thanks for the website. I recognize the packaging. I got the Spectralux red and blue in each fixture (total of eight lamps). It looks like Sunlight Supply sells fixtures very similar to my current fixtures. Not having to replace my current fixtures will allow for the purchase of more chids :cheer: and additional supplies to keep my current collection in tiptop shape. .: Sunlight Supply - horticulture and aquarium lighting systems :. Website

I cannot thank you enough for the tips.

Justatypn,

Thank you for the warm welcome. Like Ross, I have enjoyed reading your posts. I like the idea of repotting. That will give me a chance to look at those roots. Where should I look on my Dor. to check if it is attempting to rebloom?