Regular S/H system -> Ray's system?
 

I bought a while ago (because I plan repotting my Phal in S/H after the bloom) an hydro pot (Leni) and a regular outer pot.

If I understand the usual semi-hydro system, you just need to maintain the water at the right level, the rest is done through wicking. In the case of orchids (is it the same with other plants?) you have to empty the outer pot (or the saucer) before watering to maintain a precise composition of the water in the tank.

Ray's system uses holes to flush the "old" water out of the tank and replace it with fresh one, which is imo easier (I love easy). The pots are also transparent

So I plan to drill two holes in the outer pot, 1" above the bottom and use it as a tank, the hydro I bought will contain the medium (and the orchid, of course :biggrin:). Are ther some special types of drills I should use for that? (The outer pot seems to be made of glazed terracotta or something similar). Also should I do that under water (like for glass?)

Is the fact that it is opaque will have an impact on the growth of the orchid?

(sorry for using terms that are not really appropriate but I hope you get the meaning ;) )

If it was me, I'd just get a plastic container that fits in the white terracotta pot. Poke(drill) 2 holes with a heated drill bit about 1 to 1 1/2 in. from bottom of plastic container and use terracotta pot for decoration and to hold spillage.

Bill

Yeah you're right of course...

I think I'm just trying to find a use for that S/H pot I bought... looked like it was a good idea though

Well, you could use it in the white pot and just keep the water level at 1 1/2 in in the white pot. Though that would be more work than it's probably worth. I have my s/h plants in plastic containers, and when I water them, I fill to top of media, hold my finger over the holes for a minute or so, and let it drain.
I've never tried to drill into terrcotta, but I have to think I would end up with a broken or cracked pot.:rofl:
Good luck,

Bill

If you want to drill holes in terracotta pots go to any hardware store and buy a masonary bit. It works great and I've never cracked a pot glazed or not.
Ed b

Hello!

I`m using the same system as yours Corwin and I find it easier that traditional SH pot with the 2 holes!
With the one you shown, il easy to pour water in the pot up to the max mark on the indicator! No need to bring the pot to the sink.
You don`t need to drill holes on the ceramic pot, just use it as your reservoir and put your basket, leca and plant into it.


Claude

sometimes masonry bits dont work for ceramic. but you wont know until after youve broken one. i use glass bits that require no water. they are arrow shaped and can be purchased at home depot or lowes. drill speed must be low so heat doesnt build up. but if i was you id just get a different type of hydro pot. any HYDRO pots should be ready to go right outta the box.

That system is ready to go out of the box. It has a float/water level indicator. They work well if you follow the markings on the indicator...fill to full, and probably has a marking in the middle that may say ideal or something similar. No need to drill anything.

As far as i've understand Ray's system, you have to fill the pot with the fertilizer and wait till it drains through the holes (flushing the media), So I wanted to combine the two, using the gauge to maintain the water level between the waterings (in the summer), and use the holes to flush the media when needed

The problem with the 3-component pots (gauge with inner pot, plus outer pot as a reservoir) is that merely topping up the liquid never gets you back to "good" nutrient solution chemistry and does not favor flushing. In order to do that, you have to lift the inner pot from the outer, dump the contents, flush the inner pot with fresh water, then put it all together and add fresh nutrient. With my design, rapidly filling the pot to the top with nutrient solution and letting it drain accomplishes both.