Neofinetia falcata Nishidemiyako 西出都 (and a bonus friend from New World Orchids)
 

My first Neo came in yesterday from New World Orchids. Came in a day early from the initial delivery date, actually.
Kristen also gave me this Leptotes pohlitinocoi for free, so that was a nice surprise! Not sure what alliance it belongs to, but I read it's genus contains only about 10 species.

Both of them are in sphagnum moss with a packing peanut (I don't know why but I found the single packing peanut assuming), both were
dry so I gave them a drink after looking them over. The Leptotes seemed to have taken the trip a lot rougher than the Nishidemiyako, but I can see the Leptotes is growing new leaves and roots. The Nishidemiyako has a tiny growth on it's side as well, so that exciting!

The Nishidemiyako is on the bottom of the cabinet where it gets brighter but indirect light and the Leptotes I put up with the larger Sundews I have, as I read it's more of a bright light orchid. The cabinet is 75-76 degrees Fahrenheit and 75-80% humidity during the day.

Neos are quite forgiving. But especially in winter, they do need to dry out a bit. (not bone-dry but the moss should be pretty dry to the touch if not crispy) Leptotes definitely needs to dry out. Take a look at the thread on the 2022 project https://www.orchidboard.com/communit...light=leptotes for some approaches that people are using for the genus. Leptotes is in the Cattleya alliance.

Both of their mosses were almost crispy. I also did my best to not douse them in water, just get the moss to a nice moisture but not wet.

The second shelf the Leptotes is on gets about 70-80% humidity night and day, and the top shelf is about 70-75% and is warmer. Should I move the Leptotes up to help it dry out some?

The Neo is in a spot on the bottom of the cabinet where it's probably 80-85% humidity and it gets good indirect light, unlike under the second shelf that's a bit more shaded and gets to 90-95% at night for the highland Nepenthes I have.

Out of interest, what makes Leptotes qualify to be in the Cattleya alliance? I know I might be asking for a way more complicated answer than normal.

Both can get nice and wet, they just need to dry out and not be kept wet. (Remember, in general orchids in nature get a good soaking when it rains, then the sun comes out and dries them. )

The classifications (what is related to what) can be determined by DNA studies. There are also structural features involved (Leptotes was put in the Cattleya group before the DNA scans I'm pretty sure) Classifications are typically preceded by dissections to look very closely at features that are not necessarily immediately visible. DNA analysis has shown relationships that aren't obvious from structure (morphology), which is a reason that there have been so many name changes of genera. In the hobbyist/horticultural world it's annoying, much complaining. But one really does have to follow the science, and science evolves.

How fun! And nice drosera as well! :biggrin:

Thanks! On the left both pots have the same plant Drosera capensis "Lotus Eater", and the right the redder one is Drosera capensis "Beet".

Neither are registered cultivars with the ICPS but you can kind of tell they're different from just a regular Drosera capensis.