Dormant phal with odd leaf
 

I’m Minding this phal which is over 10 years old and only bloomed once early on in that time. I have started it in kelp max and orchid food, repotted from broken down media and given it a sunny spot for the 6 months it’s with me (3 months passed) a leaf fell off (wasn’t too worried as yellow was from outer and it was the oldest leaf) I notice now the second small leaf is yellowing so slowly and dying too. Why the second not the bottom leaf? Roots look great on this orchid and I’m not sure why it’s happening?

Phals are shade plants. They don't ever need sun shining on the leaves. If it's in large bark you may not be watering enough.

we have noticed some of our phals will drop a leaf when they are getting ready to do something else. maybe you will get lucky with some flowers!

The leaves are a very very pale yellow-ish-green which suggests that the light is at the extreme upper end of tolerability. It’s probably adding unnecessary stress to the plant. You don’t want a deep forest green (not enough light) but your leaves are much lighter than is ideal.

It looks like that because of the sunlight but it only gets adequate sun and the small leaf is the only one that colour. I had trouble uploading all the pics but I’ll try again. It’s a normal colour phal apart from that leaf

---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:48 PM ----------

It gets filtered sun and not too much. It’s getting enough water. Other leaves are fine. Just that second small leaf that’s odd.

OK, here’s my take…

Sometime in the past, the plant hit a spell of “so-so” care, or other issue, that led to a stunted leaf. The plant is a lot healthier now, so “decided” to resorb the phytochemicals and ditch that leaf.

As to not blooming, my guess is that it isn’t getting the required temperature profile to initiate a spike.

Such hybrid absolutely thrive in very hot, humid conditions, but they will not reliably initiate a flower spike until they experience 10-14 days of an average growing temperature about 6-9C cooler. After that, return it to the heat for best spike growth.

People frequently focus on the day/night temperature variation, but that nighttime reduction must be double those earlier figures to achieve the correct average.

I took another look and you’re right, it was the backlight that made the whole plant look very pale green. Knowing that, I’d agree with Ray’s assessment.

I have bloomed Phals in the house with rather minor temperature variation... the trick that worked for me was to increase the duration of light to 12 hours using supplemental lighting. (I used fluorescents, it was years ago, but now LEDs are available that use much less energy) So low light, but more hours might get you flowers.

There is no doubt that some phals will bloom without the relatively extreme temperature reduction, but the thing about exposing them to it is that it is a way of reliably getting them to do so.

Thank you so so much! Yes it’s had some hard times with it’s owner. It almost died from bug infestation. Thank you also for the advice re blooming and temperatures

---------- Post added at 01:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------

I do have a light I put a high wat bulb in I can use. Thank you, I’ll give it a go.