Cattleya orchid Brown on edges of the leaf.
 

Hi!. I have owned a cattleya orchid for about a year now. The plant was not doing well in its original potting, the leaves started getting black tips which I assumed was black rot.

I trim the affection off, and the root system was really bad but there was new growth I use hydrogen peroxide to clean the roots of any infections and have it in a temporary pot. I was then going to transplant the plant on a mount and put it in a orchidarium I am building, and now I find wrinkly Brown lines on the leaves and the new Roots shriveled up and the old ones get this white hair on it.

I assume it's some sort of bacterial infection on the leafs? I don't know how to treat it, and if I trim it off is it okay to put it in a orchidarium with other plants, or would it just infect the others.

I'm sorry I'm asking so many questions, but I really need help with this orchid.

Does it get any direct sun?

Not much I try to put it in a south facing windo.

The injuries are wet or dry?

When I put my finger on it it feels dry, but if you press on it the injury is a little soft

I'm not sure but judging by the photos the leaves are dark green. This means the plant doesn't recieve enough light. This also means that it is not adapted to higher light levels, such as the ones in a south window.

However, some portions of the leaves, especially on the top, are becoming light green. This might indicate those are the areas that recieve much of the incoming light, and the injuries are located in these areas.
Apart from that, looking at the pictures, the plant seems healthy.

So, my guess is sun burn.

Let's see what others have to say.

BTW, welcome!:)

Could just give the hydrogen peroxide a miss. I have a feeling that hydrogen peroxide not only does something to unwanted organisms, but can also set the plant/roots etc back a lot.

Go for something like a systematic fungicide with correct dosage levels --- for orchids. Eg. Cleary's 3336. In Australia, we have Yates anti-rot phosacid ... a phosphorous acid product for plants, and ok for orchids too. Spray the systematic fungicide on the leaves, and a bit on the roots.

You're using bark, which seems ok. Just make sure to provide the orchid with good air-circulation. This also means good airing to the growing media (and the roots).

Totally agree with rbarata - about the leaves appearing rather dark, an indication of relatively low light growing conditions. More light will be beneficial for the orchid. And make sure to provide good air-circulation. Avoid still air environments.

I don't seem to put in the light much as you can see by the dark green leaves, I hope you're right it's better than a bacterial infection. when I eventually put it in the orchidarium I will have LED lights to provide light. I was using a flash in the last picture here's one without. And thank you:)

Thanks rbarata! That's one of the articles I read a long time ago. I think it'll be fine for spraying on leaves or stem. I avoid spraying that stuff on roots. Also, the part about - once a bottle is open, degradation of the H2O2 begins. I don't know at what rate though. The possible issue is - if somebody doesn't use it much, and then opens a bottle to use a little bit, and then it sits there for ages, then it could be a waste.

That part about drenching with H2O2 for purposes of 'oxygenating' the roots - that raises my eyebrows.

---------- Post added at 10:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 AM ----------

It could be bacterial. If the leaf remains soft and mushy in that area ----- ie. if it does not dry up and go hard in that region within say a few days or a week, or if it appears to be increasing in area, then use sterile cutters to cut that part off. Cut a little bit more than necessary, and dispose of that portion properly. Isolate the orchid from the others.

Put the plant in an area with more light, and provide good air circulation. Good air circulation is a golden rule.