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New member - feeding Dendrobium Nobile & Phalaenopsis
Hi everyone, it's my first post.
I've been reading through the forum for a few days now and decided to register. I'm also new to gardening and keeping houseplants too so have very limited knowledge. I have only 2 houseplants - Dendrobium Nobile & Phalaenopsis that i'm hoping to repot once flowers drop with a fresh bark/perlite/charcoal/coir mix i've just bought. I'm just wondering about feed. I have a soluble Miracle Grow all purpose feed i could use but not sure if it would be suitable. If not, are there any recommendations for feed here in the UK that's available. Thanks. |
Congratulations on your first post!
I just use a liquid fertiliser for orchids (eg. yates liquid orchid food) ------ since no need to wait for the solids to dissolve into water. I just use one-quarter to one-third of what the bottle instructions recommends for the dosage ------ and I apply the fertiliser to my orchids (grown in scoria mainly) just once-a-month. There are discussions about using regular miracle gro (eg. all-purpose) on orchids. And there are those people that report no issue. While others recommend to not use fertilisers containing urea ----- not to use on orchids that is. See this link. As I have options and choices ..... I've just stuck with my readily available "yates liquid orchid food" (which is not really 'food' because 'food' relates to energy-containing sugar type substances that the body can use - eg. sugars produced from photo-synthesis process). |
I think that you can use the fertilizer that you have, but use 1/2 as much as the directions say. Orchids need very little fertilizer. We say "once weekly, weakly"... you can actually do less that that. A note about the nobile-type Dendrobium... fertilize only during the spring and summer. In fall and winter, you will also reduce (but not eliminate) watering - these need to "rest" a bit for best blooming. Phalaenopsis, on the other hand, want to be watered and fertilized all year.
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I use Miracle Gro All Purpose feed with no issues. As said in other posts - half the recommended strength is fine.
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Orchids are sensitive to urea. It is the cheapest form of Nitrogen which is why it is often found in the cheaper brands but like with multivitamins there are better and worse kinds. Miracle gro is not a Fertilizer I would use on my orchids. According to the composition:
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The best Fertilizer for orchids available in the uk is this Rain mix Orchid Fertiliser, potting compost and orchid supplies- Orchid Accessories |
I haven't found urea to be a particular problem, especially for the more common commercial orchids. Contrary to what I have seen bandied about, orchids do have bacteria in their roots that can take advantage of that form of nitrogen. I am reminded of an elderly grower who is no longer with us, who always had fabulous blooms that broke all the rules... terete Vandas (now Papilionanthe) that grew and bloomed outside in southern California (where it should have been too cold) in the shade (where they want sun) for example... when asked what fertilizer he used, he said "Whatever is on sale"... which was usually MiracleGro or some such. That's when I learned to relax and realize that in the grand scheme of things, fertilizer is fertilizer, and orchids don't need much. Can one get into the fine points and maybe do a little better? Sure. But for basic orchids for a person starting out, not a need for a major investment in something that will hardly get used. Actually, Andy (of Andy's Orchids fame) also recommended that I use one of the "soil acidifier" fertilizers (loaded with urea nitrogen) when I was doing more growing with tap water. So even the professionals use it.
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Thanks for all of your opinions on using the miracle grow. If i do go ahead and try using it, i might just start with 1/4 of the directed strength. I wait until my Dendrobium is completely dry then water with little as possible at the moment as im addressing my previous tendency to overwater everything through inexperience.
For the Phalaenopsis, i wait for the media to go dry and roots grey, then give it a soak for a few minutes then drain. As i say i'm just starting, so have so many mistakes ahead of me yet. I'm probably making a few now. |
Fertilizer is the least important factor in orchid culture, since orchids need so little of it. If it's a little less efficient than a "dedicated" formulation, no worries, it is still probably going to be more than the plant actually needs. I think you have the right approach to watering... maybe water the Phal before it gets completely dry, though. Instead of soaking, I like to use running water that runs through the pot - that approach pulls air through the root zone as the water flows. It may not wet things as thoroughly but that is a good think. You might have to water more often, but again that pulls air into the pot (and also flushes "crud" buildup, whether from minerals from tap water or fertilizer, or organic breakdown products.
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Welcome to the Orchid Board!
Your two orchids have different cultural requirements. The Phalaenopsis is a low light plant that prefers even watering and fertilizing all year. They are fine with just enough light to cast an indistinct shadow. What is the potting mix now? Watering is different if in sphagnum moss than in bark. Phals do better with warmer temperatures. What are your day/night temperatures? Have a look at a thread here about growing Phals. From the left yellow menu select Forums, then Beginners. Look near the top for the sticky thread The Phal abuse stops here. There are Dendrobiums from many different climates, requiring different care. Nobile hybrids have an annual growth cycle the grower must respect for flowering. They flower in spring. Commercial growers manipulate greenhouse temperatures to bring them into flower at any season. They should be watered well during flowering or flowers may drop early. I would not let it dry out at this stage. Does your plant have a full set of leaves with its flowers? Most do when sold. Soon it will begin making new growth from the base. Make sure it gets bright light, brighter than for Phalaenopsis. Begin fertilizing with new growth, stopping in late August. Fertilizing too late in summer causes the plant to produce plantlets at cane nodes rather than flowers. Also water heavily in spring and summer. Dendrobiums of all sorts in active growth should never dry completely or growths may be lost. Continue watering after you stop fertilizing. As fall progresses and each new growth matures its final leaf, give it much cooler temperatures, 10-12C but not freezing. Also give as much winter light as possible. In habitat these grow on deciduous trees. Water less, but water enough they keep their leaves. Recall it was in full leaf when you bought it. Flowering is triggered by cool winter temperatures, and inhibited by fertilizing too late in the summer. Some people advise drying the plants completely for weeks or months in winter if you cannot provide cool temperatures. This does not work, and the plant will be damaged or killed. As flower buds grow you may water more, but don't begin fertilizing again until you see new growth from the base. |
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I've ordered the Rainmix. I've looked at the local water board test results for my supply and it is listed as "moderately soft". I wonder if this will be ok with Rainmix. If not, i'll be out with cupped hands standing in the rain...lol. |
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