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-   -   New member - feeding Dendrobium Nobile & Phalaenopsis (http://www.orchidboard.com/community/beginner-discussion/105659-feeding-dendrobium-nobile-phalaenopsis.html)

mm0sdk 01-08-2021 10:49 AM

New member - feeding Dendrobium Nobile & Phalaenopsis
 
Hi everyone, it's my first post.

I've been reading through the forum for a few days now and decided to register. I'm also new to gardening and keeping houseplants too so have very limited knowledge. I have only 2 houseplants - Dendrobium Nobile & Phalaenopsis that i'm hoping to repot once flowers drop with a fresh bark/perlite/charcoal/coir mix i've just bought.

I'm just wondering about feed. I have a soluble Miracle Grow all purpose feed i could use but not sure if it would be suitable. If not, are there any recommendations for feed here in the UK that's available.

Thanks.

SouthPark 01-08-2021 11:59 AM

Congratulations on your first post!

I just use a liquid fertiliser for orchids (eg. yates liquid orchid food) ------ since no need to wait for the solids to dissolve into water. I just use one-quarter to one-third of what the bottle instructions recommends for the dosage ------ and I apply the fertiliser to my orchids (grown in scoria mainly) just once-a-month.

There are discussions about using regular miracle gro (eg. all-purpose) on orchids. And there are those people that report no issue. While others recommend to not use fertilisers containing urea ----- not to use on orchids that is. See this link.

As I have options and choices ..... I've just stuck with my readily available "yates liquid orchid food" (which is not really 'food' because 'food' relates to energy-containing sugar type substances that the body can use - eg. sugars produced from photo-synthesis process).

Roberta 01-08-2021 02:24 PM

I think that you can use the fertilizer that you have, but use 1/2 as much as the directions say. Orchids need very little fertilizer. We say "once weekly, weakly"... you can actually do less that that. A note about the nobile-type Dendrobium... fertilize only during the spring and summer. In fall and winter, you will also reduce (but not eliminate) watering - these need to "rest" a bit for best blooming. Phalaenopsis, on the other hand, want to be watered and fertilized all year.

jcec1 01-08-2021 03:40 PM

I use Miracle Gro All Purpose feed with no issues. As said in other posts - half the recommended strength is fine.

Orchidtinkerer 01-08-2021 06:06 PM

Orchids are sensitive to urea. It is the cheapest form of Nitrogen which is why it is often found in the cheaper brands but like with multivitamins there are better and worse kinds. Miracle gro is not a Fertilizer I would use on my orchids. According to the composition:

Quote:

Ingredients. The primary ingredient in Miracle-Gro is urea, which is high in nitrogen. The plant food also contains urea phosphate, potassium chloride, sodium molybdate, ammonium phosphate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, chlorine, boric acid, manganese EDTA and ferric sodium EDTA
Most supermarket fertilizers containe Urea.

The best Fertilizer for orchids available in the uk is this Rain mix Orchid Fertiliser, potting compost and orchid supplies- Orchid Accessories

Roberta 01-08-2021 06:19 PM

I haven't found urea to be a particular problem, especially for the more common commercial orchids. Contrary to what I have seen bandied about, orchids do have bacteria in their roots that can take advantage of that form of nitrogen. I am reminded of an elderly grower who is no longer with us, who always had fabulous blooms that broke all the rules... terete Vandas (now Papilionanthe) that grew and bloomed outside in southern California (where it should have been too cold) in the shade (where they want sun) for example... when asked what fertilizer he used, he said "Whatever is on sale"... which was usually MiracleGro or some such. That's when I learned to relax and realize that in the grand scheme of things, fertilizer is fertilizer, and orchids don't need much. Can one get into the fine points and maybe do a little better? Sure. But for basic orchids for a person starting out, not a need for a major investment in something that will hardly get used. Actually, Andy (of Andy's Orchids fame) also recommended that I use one of the "soil acidifier" fertilizers (loaded with urea nitrogen) when I was doing more growing with tap water. So even the professionals use it.

mm0sdk 01-08-2021 07:18 PM

Thanks for all of your opinions on using the miracle grow. If i do go ahead and try using it, i might just start with 1/4 of the directed strength. I wait until my Dendrobium is completely dry then water with little as possible at the moment as im addressing my previous tendency to overwater everything through inexperience.

For the Phalaenopsis, i wait for the media to go dry and roots grey, then give it a soak for a few minutes then drain.

As i say i'm just starting, so have so many mistakes ahead of me yet. I'm probably making a few now.

Roberta 01-08-2021 07:24 PM

Fertilizer is the least important factor in orchid culture, since orchids need so little of it. If it's a little less efficient than a "dedicated" formulation, no worries, it is still probably going to be more than the plant actually needs. I think you have the right approach to watering... maybe water the Phal before it gets completely dry, though. Instead of soaking, I like to use running water that runs through the pot - that approach pulls air through the root zone as the water flows. It may not wet things as thoroughly but that is a good think. You might have to water more often, but again that pulls air into the pot (and also flushes "crud" buildup, whether from minerals from tap water or fertilizer, or organic breakdown products.

jcec1 01-09-2021 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orchidtinkerer (Post 946970)
Orchids are sensitive to urea. It is the cheapest form of Nitrogen which is why it is often found in the cheaper brands but like with multivitamins there are better and worse kinds. Miracle gro is not a Fertilizer I would use on my orchids. According to the composition:



Most supermarket fertilizers containe Urea.

The best Fertilizer for orchids available in the uk is this Rain mix Orchid Fertiliser, potting compost and orchid supplies- Orchid Accessories

I've had no issues with Miracle Gro across many genera including paphs, phrags, and masdies for the last twenty years. Maybe I'm lucky but I'll keep using it as it's cheap and as you state can be easily picked up from the supermarket and can be used on all the other plants I grow as well.

---------- Post added at 11:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 AM ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by mm0sdk (Post 946975)
Thanks for all of your opinions on using the miracle grow. If i do go ahead and try using it, i might just start with 1/4 of the directed strength. I wait until my Dendrobium is completely dry then water with little as possible at the moment as im addressing my previous tendency to overwater everything through inexperience.

For the Phalaenopsis, i wait for the media to go dry and roots grey, then give it a soak for a few minutes then drain.

As i say i'm just starting, so have so many mistakes ahead of me yet. I'm probably making a few now.

Sounds like the right approach to me, good luck growing and hopefully it will work for you.

mm0sdk 01-09-2021 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcec1 (Post 946987)
I've had no issues with Miracle Gro across many genera including paphs, phrags, and masdies for the last twenty years. Maybe I'm lucky but I'll keep using it as it's cheap and as you state can be easily picked up from the supermarket and can be used on all the other plants I grow as well.

---------- Post added at 11:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 AM ----------



Sounds like the right approach to me, good luck growing and hopefully it will work for you.

Thanks for the advice. I think i'm going to start off in really low concentrations and go from there. I have a big tub of the stuff that will last me ages as i don't have a large garden at all, so if i can use it here that would be great. I suppose if i flush the root system / medium every now and again might help. I'm getting really good at preventing myself from buying more. :) The ones that got away.

estación seca 01-09-2021 10:18 PM

Welcome to the Orchid Board!

Your two orchids have different cultural requirements. The Phalaenopsis is a low light plant that prefers even watering and fertilizing all year. They are fine with just enough light to cast an indistinct shadow. What is the potting mix now? Watering is different if in sphagnum moss than in bark. Phals do better with warmer temperatures. What are your day/night temperatures? Have a look at a thread here about growing Phals. From the left yellow menu select Forums, then Beginners. Look near the top for the sticky thread The Phal abuse stops here.

There are Dendrobiums from many different climates, requiring different care. Nobile hybrids have an annual growth cycle the grower must respect for flowering. They flower in spring. Commercial growers manipulate greenhouse temperatures to bring them into flower at any season. They should be watered well during flowering or flowers may drop early. I would not let it dry out at this stage. Does your plant have a full set of leaves with its flowers? Most do when sold.

Soon it will begin making new growth from the base. Make sure it gets bright light, brighter than for Phalaenopsis. Begin fertilizing with new growth, stopping in late August. Fertilizing too late in summer causes the plant to produce plantlets at cane nodes rather than flowers.

Also water heavily in spring and summer. Dendrobiums of all sorts in active growth should never dry completely or growths may be lost. Continue watering after you stop fertilizing. As fall progresses and each new growth matures its final leaf, give it much cooler temperatures, 10-12C but not freezing. Also give as much winter light as possible. In habitat these grow on deciduous trees. Water less, but water enough they keep their leaves. Recall it was in full leaf when you bought it. Flowering is triggered by cool winter temperatures, and inhibited by fertilizing too late in the summer. Some people advise drying the plants completely for weeks or months in winter if you cannot provide cool temperatures. This does not work, and the plant will be damaged or killed. As flower buds grow you may water more, but don't begin fertilizing again until you see new growth from the base.

mm0sdk 01-11-2021 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by estación seca (Post 947023)
Welcome to the Orchid Board!

Your two orchids have different cultural requirements. The Phalaenopsis is a low light plant that prefers even watering and fertilizing all year. They are fine with just enough light to cast an indistinct shadow. What is the potting mix now? Watering is different if in sphagnum moss than in bark. Phals do better with warmer temperatures. What are your day/night temperatures? Have a look at a thread here about growing Phals. From the left yellow menu select Forums, then Beginners. Look near the top for the sticky thread The Phal abuse stops here.

There are Dendrobiums from many different climates, requiring different care. Nobile hybrids have an annual growth cycle the grower must respect for flowering. They flower in spring. Commercial growers manipulate greenhouse temperatures to bring them into flower at any season. They should be watered well during flowering or flowers may drop early. I would not let it dry out at this stage. Does your plant have a full set of leaves with its flowers? Most do when sold.

Soon it will begin making new growth from the base. Make sure it gets bright light, brighter than for Phalaenopsis. Begin fertilizing with new growth, stopping in late August. Fertilizing too late in summer causes the plant to produce plantlets at cane nodes rather than flowers.

Also water heavily in spring and summer. Dendrobiums of all sorts in active growth should never dry completely or growths may be lost. Continue watering after you stop fertilizing. As fall progresses and each new growth matures its final leaf, give it much cooler temperatures, 10-12C but not freezing. Also give as much winter light as possible. In habitat these grow on deciduous trees. Water less, but water enough they keep their leaves. Recall it was in full leaf when you bought it. Flowering is triggered by cool winter temperatures, and inhibited by fertilizing too late in the summer. Some people advise drying the plants completely for weeks or months in winter if you cannot provide cool temperatures. This does not work, and the plant will be damaged or killed. As flower buds grow you may water more, but don't begin fertilizing again until you see new growth from the base.

Some great information for me to use here, thank you. You've all been a great help and very welcoming i must say. My only problem now is, I have to learn to resist the urge of buying too many Orchids. ;)

Roberta 01-11-2021 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mm0sdk (Post 947198)
My only problem now is, I have to learn to resist the urge of buying too many Orchids. ;)

Alas, I don't think you will find much help on THAT issue... we're all hopelessly addicted. :rofl:

mm0sdk 01-22-2021 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roberta (Post 947199)
Alas, I don't think you will find much help on THAT issue... we're all hopelessly addicted. :rofl:

I think i am too now. Just rescued 2 Phalaenopsis they were almost giving away, from a store that probably had never been watered in all the time they sat on the shelf - many weeks probably. Both repotted, dead roots trimmed, and i have cut down the flower spikes. One has sprung back to life with leaves now no longer wrinkled and flopping about, but much firmer and rehydrated. The other is coming round but slower.

I've ordered the Rainmix. I've looked at the local water board test results for my supply and it is listed as "moderately soft". I wonder if this will be ok with Rainmix. If not, i'll be out with cupped hands standing in the rain...lol.


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