Problems with Masdevallia tovarensis - Orchid Board

Tindomul · #1 10-12-2007, 11:06 PM

Hello all. For a year I have had a Masdevallia tovarensis in my orchidarium. Unfortunately during that year it did not grow and in the last week has dropped 10 leaves leaving me with two plant lets with 3 leaves between the two. Right now I keep it in an open jar that I use to submerge the roots in water for 15 mins in the morning and dump out the water and hopefully the jar keeps the humidity up high enough to keep the plant comfy and aerated.
(Deep breath)Sooooo, I plan on putting it in some sphag and rooting hormone. What does everyone think? Should I keep it in the jar until I see new roots and then sphag it, or attempt my first sphag and bag? Or should I go ahead and pot it in sphag?
I see no signs of rot or any other disease. I'm thinking it just wasn't in a happy place for too long a while.

shakkai · #2 10-13-2007, 04:15 AM

Tin, If you are comfortable with misting it every day, I would suggest a little clay pot with sphag. Just like with the 'sphag and bag' you want the sphag to stay just moist, never wet. My tovarensis seems to really like air movement around its roots, so the sphag in the pot is very loosly packed (which meant that I had to stake mine upright). Mine came potted in a standard small bark based mix (with charcoal, perlite, etc. added). I found that with my watering regime this mix stayed too wet, and the papery sheaths at the bottom of each leaf were not drying out and were starting to rot. So I repotted.

I haven't seen a lot of root growth yet (due in part, I think, because until I staked it, it kept wobbling) but it has put on a new leaf since I got it back at the beginning of July. There are also buds which have developed on the two existing spikes. I'm hoping to see an increase in root growth after it flowers and it will finally anchor itself in the pot.

I have been advised that over winter I should mist daily in the early mornings, and only fully water it about once every two weeks.

I hope this helps somewhat with deciding what to do with yours. Let us know what you decide.

Tindomul · #3 10-14-2007, 02:25 PM

Upon closer inspection last night I think I saw some brown rings on the leaves. (sigh).....
I don't know if I can save this one any more.

shakkai · #4 10-14-2007, 02:55 PM

Oh my! It seems like the Masdies are not doing very well around here!

I'm sorry to hear about your discovery. I wish things could have turned out differently!

masda · #5 10-14-2007, 08:47 PM

It sounds like you are overwatering and don't have enough air movement. If you can get hold of wild spaghnum, that has't been sterilized, wrap some long strands aroung the roots and only have it damp not wet.Live spaghnum has a active fungicide in it and will assist the recovery. hope that helps Good luck.

masda · #6 10-14-2007, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masda

It sounds like you are overwatering and don't have enough air movement. If you can get hold of wild spaghnum, that has't been sterilized, wrap some long strands aroung the roots and only have it damp not wet.Live spaghnum has a active fungicide in it and will assist the recovery. hope that helps Good luck.

So much to learn so little time.

stonedragonfarms · #7 10-26-2007, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tindomul1of9

Upon closer inspection last night I think I saw some brown rings on the leaves. (sigh).....
I don't know if I can save this one any more.

I saw your post and thought that I might weigh in a bit...
It sounds as though your plant may have gotten a bit too warm in addition to being kept too moist... I have a couple of species (Masd. decumana comes to mind) as well as hybrids that develop brown rings on the foliage when they are exposed to high temps for too long of a period of time. High temps and high moisture at the roots sort of "cook" the plant. I agree with the long fibre sphag in an unglazed clay pot method, as this will allow for transpiration and cooling at the root zone (via the pot walls and moisture evaporating), but I often add about 1/2" of aliflor at the bottom of the pot; this allows for added air circulation in the lower level of the pot--and more evaporative cooling in your created microclimate. I'm not sure what your high/low temps are in your terrarium, but keep in mind that the higher the temp, the more air circulation you will need. For most Masd. I would shoot for a daytime temp somewhere in the 72-74F maximum range; most can take it quite cool at night, again, provided that there is adequate air movement and that they are not too wet.
Hope that you are able to save your seedlings,
Adam

Tindomul · #8 10-26-2007, 11:03 AM

You know what. That makes perfect sense! This Masdie was located in one of the wettest spots in my tank, and these last few weeks the tanks have been seeing day time temps in the low 80's and night time temps in the low 70's. The other Masdies experience warmer temps in the day and cooler temps at night becuase they are situated closer to the light source and also get much more air circulation because they are located closer to the ventilation system. Thank you much for your input, as this gets me thinking more about the dynamics of my own tank!

MsOrchidEnthusiast · #9 07-27-2008, 09:36 PM

I have the same problem with my Masd. Tovarensis. I bought it in June. I water it Tues/Thurs/Sat but I let the water drain entirely for about 30 sec. and let it sit without water before putting back to its container. However, it lost most of its mature green leaves. The weather here is about 70-80 degrees (summer time). But it is showing new 2 growths. Is my masd. sick? Help!

MZHMD · #10 08-22-2008, 11:23 PM

Ok. M. tovarensis is from about 2000 m. Generally it is thought to do well in intermediate conditions. It is from a cloud forest environment and as such would be expected to do well with good air movement and high humidity. I have found that these conditions suit [U]my[U] specimen - I have a fan going in my enclosed space 24/7, the fan circulates mist from an ultrasonic fogger. There is constant, mild movement of the leaves of all the plants in the environment. I water every couple of days. M. tovarensis is happy under these conditions in an unglazed slash sided 3# clay pot (which it fills) in a mixture of fine bark, fine treefern, perlite, small grade aerolite and a bit of fine redwood bark. It blooms somewhere in the Thanksgiving/Christmas season. I hope this helps. The bottom line, IMO, is LOTS of air movement, moist air and don't overwater at the roots. As for feeding, I do it when I remember (not often) and then at an eighth to a quarter recommended strength of whatever happens to be in front of the other fertilizers when I lumber by. Unlike most masdevallias, this one seems to like me. I generally do better with dracs.