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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2008, 12:39 PM
Uechi Uechi is offline
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Thumbs down Macro Ring Lights/Flashes

Have any of the expert photographers in the forum tried light rings? Specifically the " Digi-Slave 6400 " My experience with older light rings/flashes was that the photo's came out just so unless you had some sort of side lighting. This new Macro light appears to have side lights as well as the main ring. The lighting is also provided by LEDs which I would think is an improvement. Inputs would be very interesting at least to me. Thanks
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Old 03-25-2008, 08:05 PM
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Hi Uechi
I take quite a few orchid photographs and have been curious about ring lights myself. Have not had any experience and not really sure of the benefits for the average Joe, so I can't really give you any feedback - sorry.

Sure would like to hear what others have to say - especially someone like Rosim_in_BR, who captures his orchids so wonderfully.
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Old 03-25-2008, 08:31 PM
Uechi Uechi is offline
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Thanks for your response. I am surprised that not one of the excellent orchid photographers has voiced an opinion, hopefully based on experience. The Macro photobooks I have lend some credence to there use. The problem with normal rings is that you wind up with a kind of flat looking photo unless you provide some depth by other than straight on lighting. The reason I asked about a specific light ring is because it uses LEDs and offers fexible gooseneck side lights. It sounds great but I am not a professional or super amateur photographer.
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:57 PM
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I am curious about this myself, actually. I've seen some photos taken with light rings and the light doesn't seem natural. So I'm not quite sure what to think. If anyone has any photos they've taken with light rings I'd love to see them.
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Old 04-07-2008, 11:41 AM
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Well I can offer a little info. I have a friend that has it and never uses it. When he take macro or studio type pictures he prefers stand lights because of the versatility, you can bounce light from umbrellas or other things to soften the light edges also he can move them around to get the best angles. He said that the light rings are to direct, at least for his type of photography. Hope this helps and makes sense.
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Old 04-07-2008, 12:08 PM
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I agree with Dave. For outdoors images (macro) I depend on photo reflectors and diffusers. For the studio I use cold florescent macro lights. Did use hot lights for many years but they have no advantage over high powered "full-spectrum" CF or dedicated macro CF bulbs in photo fixtures on stands. Don't need to use special filters either. Only photographers that I know who use and like ring lights are dentists and those that shoot flat objects like coins and stamps.
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
I agree with Dave. For outdoors images (macro) I depend on photo reflectors and diffusers. For the studio I use cold florescent macro lights. Did use hot lights for many years but they have no advantage over high powered "full-spectrum" CF or dedicated macro CF bulbs in photo fixtures on stands. Don't need to use special filters either. Only photographers that I know who use and like ring lights are dentists and those that shoot flat objects like coins and stamps.
Ross are you talking about your home studio - or are you pro?

Can you tell me more about these cold florescent macro lights please - what are they all about?
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscarman View Post
Ross are you talking about your home studio - or are you pro?

Can you tell me more about these cold florescent macro lights please - what are they all about?
Pro is a funny word. Yes I make money at my photography (but I am retired from public service as well). I have a home studio where I photograph orchids and other close-up or macro subjects. I also photograph plants in nature (flora). I sell through Alamy, primarily as well as direct submissions to photo buyers.

The cold florescent tubes are really glorified CF bulbs designed for a specific and known Kelvin temperature (so that I can set my camera accordingly). I have used Photography Equipment by ALZO Digital quite extensively, but settled on just "full spectrum" CFs lately as a cheaper (and just as efficient) alternative. They aren't dedicated macro lights, but are used commonly for studio work.

My studio is also my workshop part time.
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I don't do most Dendros or large, "floofy orchids". For me it's minis (like Angraecoides), Paphs, and others that crept in somewhere along the line. See my orchid list for complete collection (usually not current.)
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:25 AM
goodgollymissmolly goodgollymissmolly is offline
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Those of you thinking of "ring lights" might look at the Nikon R2C2 system which includes R200 flash units. It is a "captive" system meaning it works primarily with Nikon cameras though I suppose it could be adapted to others with some ingenuity.

The system avoids the direct and on lens axis light associated with a true ring light system. The kit includes various diffusion attachments, adapters of various types and sizes, and 2 R200 flash units. Additional units are available separately.

The Nikon Creative Lighting System allows uncomplicated, wireless use of the multiple flash units. They are not tethered to the lens perimeter. You can mount the lights anywhere or hand hold them. If you have a Nikon SLR with a built in flash, it can be used to trigger the system, but not flash itself (on axis flashes create undesirable lighting in a general sense). The D1,D2,and D3 cameras require the C2 unit to fire the flashes (C2 is the most expensive piece of the system).

If you are really serious, it's worth looking at. I love mine and it does a great job producing shadow free diffuse light without the complexity of past multiple flash systems.
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:56 PM
rtsingleton rtsingleton is offline
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I use a canon 100mm macro and just a cheap cobra ring flash, due to the connection to my camera it does not sync. So I shoot all manual when using the macro/flash combo. This is the way I prefer it though considering I almost always go for a F32 or very near depth of field. It takes some tinkering and sometimes can be frustrating but I wouldn't give mine up in some situations...
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