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  #1  
Old 04-18-2018, 12:24 AM
marcmaubert marcmaubert is offline
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Default First time dealing with possible virus.

So for the longest time I thought I had just a mangled Encyclia cordigera with a lot of fungal spots (it's been almost a year since I got it). Then it developed even more spots, but I thought they were just bruises from the september earthquake (it was the only orchid that fell to the ground from a shelf that came loose). And then, I totally ignored until today that the new growth has the same black spots and I can't think of a reason why, so it must be virus, right? I've never seen something like that in my collection, I don't know what to do. Thoughts? Now I'm really paranoid and checking all of my other orchids for spots. They don't share water but they are all close by.
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2018, 02:50 AM
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Bump. I don't know.
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2018, 03:05 AM
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I don't know either.

But a few things to think about- how is the humidity and air movement where you grow that plant? If it's fairly humid with little air movement, a fungal disease is still quite possible.

Seeing that 'burnt' leaf tip, how much and how often are you fertilizing?
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  #4  
Old 04-18-2018, 05:26 AM
Orchid Whisperer Orchid Whisperer is offline
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Black on new growths, and chlorotic mottling, can also mean a mineral deficiency. Especially Ca and Mg.

What is your water supply like? If you are on public water, can your utility department provide a water analysis?

I am not saying it is definitely a deficiency problem, but it is something to look into.
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Old 04-18-2018, 01:34 PM
marcmaubert marcmaubert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camille1585 View Post
I don't know either.

But a few things to think about- how is the humidity and air movement where you grow that plant? If it's fairly humid with little air movement, a fungal disease is still quite possible.

Seeing that 'burnt' leaf tip, how much and how often are you fertilizing?
Humidity is around 40 to 70%, depending on the time of day (the sun hits that window from 4 to 7 pm, so the temperature raises and the humidity drops around that time). It's never above 70%, and I have a tower fan blowing indirectly all day long (and my windows are really old so I can't seal them completely).

It's growing in Semi-hydro. My fertilizer regime is: once a week, every time I water I use the FloraSeries from General Hydroponics to try to emulate the MSU formula (they used to have a pdf on their website on how to make your own MSU formula using the FloraSeries: 10 ml of FloraMicro, 10 ml of FloraGrow, and 5 ml of FloraBloom mixed in 10 L of RO water resulted in a 72 ppm solution that was almost the same as MSU, I would then water it down to try to hit 20-25 ppm. I can't find that pdf anymore, but it must be somewhere on my old phone). Once a month I use CALiMAGic @1 ml per liter of RO water. I use Bio Bizz Alg-A-Mic (seaweed concentrate) once a month too.

Also, when I bought the FloraSeries, they offered me a discount on other products that I thought would be useful (but since I've learned they are a bit of an overkill), but since I already bought them, I use them sparingly and weakly, like: of Diamond Nectar (humic acids), Armor Si (Silicate supplement) and Subculture B and M (root inoculants). I don't know if these products could cause those burns.
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Old 04-18-2018, 01:53 PM
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The only certain way to determine if you are dealing with virus is to test... suggest Critter Creek Laboratories http://www.crittercreeklab.com ... you send them a small sample of leaf (following their instructions) , they send you the results. If you can determine that it it isn't virus, then you can focus on what it IS, and treat accordingly since most other ailments are curable.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:02 PM
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Look like the leaves of my Cymbidiums?
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:17 PM
marcmaubert marcmaubert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
The only certain way to determine if you are dealing with virus is to test... suggest Critter Creek Laboratories http://www.crittercreeklab.com ... you send them a small sample of leaf (following their instructions) , they send you the results. If you can determine that it it isn't virus, then you can focus on what it IS, and treat accordingly since most other ailments are curable.
I'm not sure if that would be possible, it's a nightmare to import or export live plants from or to Mexico, I'm guessing it would be the same with tissue samples. But I'll look for a similar lab here in Mexico City.

---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 PM ----------

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Look like the leaves of my Cymbidiums?
What happened to your Cymbidiums?
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcmaubert View Post
I'm not sure if that would be possible, it's a nightmare to import or export live plants from or to Mexico, I'm guessing it would be the same with tissue samples. But I'll look for a similar lab here in Mexico City.[COLOR="Silver"]
If you can find a lab in Mexico City that would great... and a good resource to know about. I do wonder if a 2 cm x 2 cm sample (or less) in a sealed plastic bag would have the same problems with agriculture inspection as a live plant.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
What happened to your Cymbidiums?
Nothing!
Cymbidiums are known to have really ugly leaves, probably because they grow outside.
Those symptoms really look like my Cymbs but that's just what it seems without any certainty.
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