Rot.... eeeek!! - Orchid Board

Jinxy · #1 08-25-2013, 12:57 PM

Hubby bought me a phal about a week ago. The flowers started wilting within a few days, so today a decided to repot as she was potted in sphag. Once I removed all the moss i saw what was lurking underneath.... A lovely big rotted patch between two leaves and running up one of the leaves. I have attached a picture. I have applied hydrogen peroxide to the rotted area's. What else should I do? I have never had to deal with this before. Thanks in advance for any advise :-)

dounoharm · #2 08-25-2013, 01:48 PM

it looks like you removed the moss, that's good, I cant tell what media its in tho, just keep perfect drainage and allow plenty of air circulation around the roots....I always potted phals in very very large chunks of bark...that worked for me anyway, gl!!

Jinxy · #3 08-25-2013, 01:51 PM

I potted her in lecca beads. I also cut extra slits on the sides of the pot.

DweamGoiL · #4 08-25-2013, 05:00 PM

You need to remove all the rotted tissue with a sharp blade, then apply the peroxide and seal it with cinnamon. Keep the area dry from now on, and it should be fine.

Kanaka John · #5 08-31-2013, 05:02 AM

I will lay money that you bought that plant at costco. Who ever supplies them grows them in pure spagnum moss. I have found that if you don't repot them into orchid bark you will rot them. Their culture label, most do not read it, says to water the plant only every 21 days. There also are no drain holes in that pretty white vase. If you want the plant repot it and give it a chance to live. I use a blend of course and medium bark with some medium spongerock. Water it thoroughly after repoting and then let it rest dry for a few days to allow the injured roots to heal. Watering too frequently after poting can rot roots off. You will id this by the shrivelling of the leaves, loss of turger pressure within the leaf. A fine water misting is ok but don't soak the crown or we will discuss rot again. Have fun but , look out for those wonderful plants at lowes, home depot and costco. Then need immediate attention when you get them home.

RJSquirrel · #6 08-31-2013, 05:27 AM

I grow all my phals in a greenhouse sloppy wet in moss and the roots dont rot. Why? bec the roots dont stay cold and wet like they do indoors. Its not just the moss its the combination of cold and wet moss. Phals dont like cold wet feet. If you grow them indoors this is the worst case scenario for a phal. Cold wet moss is the phal killer. Not just the moss. Moss wont kill anything. its the way its treated that kills. Moss gets a really bad pr. and you need the complete picture of why the moss is doing this.

Kanaka John · #7 08-31-2013, 05:53 AM

That is true, but so many new hobbyists start in the house that unless they have a warm mat under the plants, they lose them. Most don't understand the balance you have to find for your growing conditions, watering, sun light, temperature all must be balanced by you for your situation. I have seen phals growing on rocks without a bit of soil, I have seen them in the soggy bogs of rain forest. But each has got a balance in nature that they survive in. It our challenge to duplicate what we can to grow successfully. As long as your soggy feet phals. have good water you can do that. Out hear with Colorado
river water, the salts would made it a real challenge.

---------- Post added at 02:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:38 AM ----------

Hey rocket j. Does it still rain in houston without a cloud in the sky? I have a cousin that just retired over in baytown, I sure don't miss the humidity down there. I now know why you grow with soggy feet -- you have no choice but to grow accordingly. We are having what we call a heat wave out here, got to 106 in the greenhouse, 93 outside, that means I do a lot of misting to keep the humidity up. Now that's something you don't have to fight. Take care, may change to moose, then they could have moose and squirrel if you didn't fly away!!

RosieC · #8 09-02-2013, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJSquirrel

I grow all my phals in a greenhouse sloppy wet in moss and the roots dont rot. Why? bec the roots dont stay cold and wet like they do indoors. Its not just the moss its the combination of cold and wet moss. Phals dont like cold wet feet. If you grow them indoors this is the worst case scenario for a phal. Cold wet moss is the phal killer. Not just the moss. Moss wont kill anything. its the way its treated that kills. Moss gets a really bad pr. and you need the complete picture of why the moss is doing this.

Hmm, my greenhouse is much cooler than my house... but I get the point and in general I agree. I've killed Phal roots with Leca, when it was too cold and the evaporation chilled everything down too much. I keep my masdies in always damp moss and they don't rot. I love moss for my cooler growing genera and until your comment I've not really twigged that it IS the cooler growing ones that do well for me in it... because I don't have the temps for it to work on the warmer growing ones.

One think I would add though... when I've bought phals in moss it's been FAR too compact, so that the roots can't breath. When I pot with it myself it's no-where near as dense and I don't have any problems.

The key thing is that used correctly and used in the right environment it can be really good.

buffalo · #9 10-11-2013, 01:45 PM

I also found that getting some moss out of the store bought really help. Its usually pretty compact , my guess is its for shipping.
After having many failure and some successes you would think i can come up with a winning formula but i have not yet. I grew some in moss n some in bark no real difference. some roots rot some don't. The cold wet feet seem to make alot of sense as i look back at some failures. Too wet for too long. Then with bark more issue with wrinkling leaves not enough water i read. So i would say what ever medium you use know your plant and how fast it dries out and how long the medium tend to stay wet as oppose to just damp. wet too long and the roots rot, too dry; wrinkle leaves and dried up roots.
One of my successes for roots and foliage with a phal is one grown in an acrylic container with lots of holes. (used to hold your spoons n forks after you wash them for them to dry). Im using a little bit of moss and mostly clay beads does very well . The little bit of clay let me know when getting too dry. But not necessarily cause with so many holes i could likely water daily with no issue.

Kanaka John · #10 10-11-2013, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buffalo

I also found that getting some moss out of the store bought really help. Its usually pretty compact , my guess is its for shipping.
After having many failure and some successes you would think i can come up with a winning formula but i have not yet. I grew some in moss n some in bark no real difference. some roots rot some don't. The cold wet feet seem to make alot of sense as i look back at some failures. Too wet for too long. Then with bark more issue with wrinkling leaves not enough water i read. So i would say what ever medium you use know your plant and how fast it dries out and how long the medium tend to stay wet as oppose to just damp. wet too long and the roots rot, too dry; wrinkle leaves and dried up roots.
One of my successes for roots and foliage with a phal is one grown in an acrylic container with lots of holes. (used to hold your spoons n forks after you wash them for them to dry). Im using a little bit of moss and mostly clay beads does very well . The little bit of clay let me know when getting too dry. But not necessarily cause with so many holes i could likely water daily with no issue.

My advice unless you like rotting plants is get the moss out!! My old stand by for growing most orchids is 3/4 fir bark and 1/4 sponge rock. I vary the grades, fine, medium and large according to the type and size of the plant. I know everyone has their favorite mix but over 50 years of growing orchids you try many things. Some work some don't. In 1975 I was growing thousands of orchids, every type, semi-hydroponicly. Never thought anything about it, has purchased a 100' x 300' greenhouse which had been a hydroponic tomato grower's facility. We just used the beds with potted orchids in them and watered and fed them by flooding the beds from the storage tanks used for the tomatoes. Worked beautifully. The one thing I would recommend is, getvthe best quality orchid bark you can. On the west coast I get Kiwi orchid bark, from down under, it is a little more expensive. But what is more costly the bark or the plant that rots? Sunset Valley Orchids in Vista, CA stocks it, so other suppliers may have it in your area. It is clean, hard bark, no wood parts. Using it you will not have to repot for 3 -4 years and the root systems are fantastic. The stronger the roots, the better the plant and the bigger the flowers. I also get the #3 grade sponge rock, 1/4 - 1/2 ", and screen out the "dust" off the material. You can use the screenings for your terrestrial orchids
or other potted plants. I have found that some of the phrags & paphs do like to sit in a small amount of water. Just be sure and weekly change that water. Also many of these same plants are very sensitive to the quality of the water, rain water is good for them, also reverse osmosis filtration is too. Distilled is not so good, because of its purity it takes away the nutrients the plants need. Just remember, this is how I DO IT, no one can tell you exactly how any growing technique will work for you because every growing area is different and requires adjustments to make it work FOR YOU and your plants. These are some general guide lines. So have fun and learn how to grow these precious gifts of nature. Regards, K.J.