FUNGUS GNATS!!!

[Leafmite]

I found one butterwort on Amazon but the bug-catcher butterwort extraorinaire (I plan to ask the vendor this year for the ping's identity) was found at an orchid show. The purple pitcher has to have the pitchers filled to drown bugs...perhaps that was the problem.

[isurus79]

For advice on CP's, you guys might want to ask wireman. He is one of several CP experts here on OB and has been posting pics of his amazing collection here: http://www.orchidboard.com/community...ores-such.html I bet he would know where to get some butterworts.

[Ordphien]

Pouring hydrogen peroxide into the pots got the buggers out of all my orchid pots

[The Orchid Boy]

Once I added pot of Drosera spatulata 'Frasier Island' (sundew), 2 small Nepenthes sanguinea (tropical pitcher plant), and a bunch of Venus fly trap 'Big Mouth', my fungus gnat problem disapeared. Now I only see 1-2 gnats every other week. The drosera and nepenthes need less light than the vft's and don't need dormancy. Tell me if you want some more basic advice.

[Kailyn]

Thanks everyone! The issue I have with these gnats is the larva feed on the small root hairs on plants and can cause them to die if the infestation is bad enough. (not an issue with my orchids but I have other seedlings) that they do affect. I love the CP idea but worry they wont hold up while i am gone and have less then diligent care.

[bballr4567]

Originally Posted by Bud

try this:

10 drops dish soap
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon extract
2 cups tepid water

spray the plants until soaking wet
soak the pot for 5 min in this mixture to kill eggs

repeat next week

it works for me ....I am in an apartment and plants in the windowsill

This works great for me as well. Some pots tend to get more gnats then others especially ones that stay a little more wet (a couple paphs) and using this spray will take care of any gnats at all.

[The Orchid Boy]

A nepenthes can be treated almost exactly the same as an orchid. Plant in sphagnum, give phal to catt light, water w/ pure water, and just barely let it dry out. With lower light, tropical sundews just sit them in a saucer of water all the time and watch them grow and multiply like weeds!

[violetta]

Originally Posted by The Orchid Boy

Once I added pot of Drosera spatulata 'Frasier Island' (sundew), 2 small Nepenthes sanguinea (tropical pitcher plant), and a bunch of Venus fly trap 'Big Mouth', my fungus gnat problem disapeared. Now I only see 1-2 gnats every other week. The drosera and nepenthes need less light than the vft's and don't need dormancy. Tell me if you want some more basic advice.

I have a Venus fly trap but fungus gnats and mosquitoes can't trigger the traps, it prefers fat flies and bugs bigger than the traps
Do you always keep it in water when not dormant?

[Cym Ladye]

I have heard also that carnivorous plants can help. What are the temperature high and low extremes for them?

[31drew31]

As mentioned, butterworts (Pinguicula) work amazing at catching bugs, but especially fungus gnats.

Originally Posted by Kailyn

I love the CP idea but worry they wont hold up while i am gone and have less then diligent care.

Many of the commonly available Mexican Pings are about as hardy as any common house plant. They prefer very airy media (50% + perlite) and can withstand being bone dry even in the middle of the growing season. One of the easiest species is P. moranensis and shouldn't be hard to find, Ive seen them at nearly every orchid show or hybrids containing moranensis. Two easy hybrids are P. 'Weser' and P. 'Pirouette'.

Im not sure where sells Pings in the US, but Wireman will know.

P. 'Pirouette' on the left, and P. moranensis on the right with the flower.



Another variety of P. moranensis


---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:24 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Cym Ladye

I have heard also that carnivorous plants can help. What are the temperature high and low extremes for them?

Really depends, there are many many different types. Mexican Pinguicula can withstand temperatures in the high 30's when "dormant" and easily into the 90's during the growing months. Preferred range is between 55-80F, but there is always exceptions.