Phalaenopsis stem rot?

[IvyElle]

Hey, everyone! My phal is giving me some trouble.

I'm new to orchids, so.. *sigh* here's a long story. When I first got this phal, I repotted it into bark from sphagnum moss. After her leaves wilted and her flowers all dropped, I assumed it was because I had failed to increase watering frequency, which I fixed right away. I now water her once every three or four days. However, I'm starting to suspect the wilted leaves are also due to this... interesting looking stem/root issue.

I'm kind of confused- the crown is healthy, but the stem is black. The areas where the few healthy roots meet the stem are, as well. The roots themselves look quite rotted, and the root rips are mostly dried and dead looking. I'm hoping I'm not too late to fix it because she's been in my care since November, and I'm assuming this rot has been with me since then, too. I feel awful about this phal abuse.

I've heard a lot about hydrogen peroxide, but I'm hoping to get any advice before going through with that treatment. Thanks, everyone <3

[Roberta]

It's great that you're asking first before treating! Peroxide on roots is really bad news (in spite of all the hype for it in YouTube videos). So you're quite right... don't do it. From the photo it's not clear that there's a problem with the stem that's serious, but the roots are, indeed, in poor condition. What did the roots look like when you first repotted? I have found that newly purchased orchids usually need repotting, but the choice of medium might have been an issue. Getting the watering right in spahgnum is tricky. When it's wet it tends to stay too wet, if it fully dries it 's hard to re-wet. Personally, I favor bark for Phals (and most other orchids with large roots) The roots need lots of air - they want "humid air" more than "wet". So... my suggestion would be to pot it up in bark rather than sphag. Make sure that it's held firmly in place so that it doesn't wobble - new roots will grow, and any motion will damage the growing tips.

With that in mind, don't do anything to the existing roots... they aren't in great shape, but they will help hold the plant. You are correct, the wilted leaves are due to the poor condition of the roots, so they can't take up the water that you're giving. (So more water won't help...) Once potted, when you water do it thoroughly-so that water runs through the pot. That pulls air into the root zone. Fresh bark will dry fast, so your watering frequency of three or four days will be about right - it might have been too much with the sphagnum.

A product that a lot of people on the Board (including me) have found helpful to stimulate root growth is KelpMax. If you search the Board for it as a keyword you'll find quite a few references on its use. One our members, Ray, sells it and also can give lots of information in it. Might be worth getting some and see if you can jump-start some new roots. At any rate, I think that the plant is very likely to recover... orchids are tough.

[neophyte]

Definitely second what Roberta said. Regarding your concerns about rot, I think it's just what the base of the plant normally looks like (since the old leaves that once existed there have long fallen off and the tissue has sort of scarred over). The blush of maroon on the lower leaf seems to just be some darker pigmentation.

[aliceinwl]

The roots aren’t pretty but don’t look to be too bad. I agree with Roberta’s advice.

I’d recommend repotting to bark as well. The roots may have been staying too wet for too long in the sphagnum. If you do make the switch, be careful not to let the roots get too dry in the bark. I like clear pots because I can see root and bark color: once the roots go silver or the bark looks dry: it’s time to water. Be careful, however, not to let the roots get too dry. If they’ve been trying to adapt to a too wet environment, a too dry environment can be a big shock. Don’t wait until the substrate is bone dry to water: if there is some condensation on the sides of the pot or some of the bark towards the bottom still looks damp go ahead and water.

[Ray]

IvyElle, Welcome to the board.

The most basic key to successful orchid growing is to grasp that, unlike terrestrial plants that do almost all of their gas exchange through their leaves, epiphytic orchids do much of that through their roots. That means that we must provide a potting medium that holds and provides moisture while remaining open and airy, so the roots won't suffocate.

[realoldbeachbum]

. . . if there is some condensation on the sides of the pot or some of the bark towards the bottom still looks damp go ahead and water.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Alice for this bit of info. I use clear plastic pots so I can see root growth AND probably more importantly - watch for drying bark. However, just now I realized why many of my SVO Catts get shriveled pbulbs after repotting: I WAIT until I see NO condensation on the inside of the clear pots before I water! (I understood that Catts need to dry out between waterings.)

I suppose I should start rewatering Catts when condensation first appears?

Watering balance is so important and difficult to learn for us orchid newbies!! Thanks so much.

[aliceinwl]

Condensation just means the air is still moist: this is what the roots want 100% of the time. But, the air can still have moisture when the bark is dry so if the pot feels light, the bark looks dry, and the Phalaenopsis roots look silvery: it’s time to water. I don’t use the appearance of condensation as an indicator of when to water: I don’t factor it in. I look at bark color, root color, and pot weight (for those not grown in clear pots) and water when those indicators say I should regardless of whether or not condensation is present.

I put my Phalaenopsis through a lot of undue stress in the beginning and probably contributed to root death in my plants by waiting until things were completely dry. Once a plant is really healthy and well established it can take the occasional period of total dryness but it’s really tough on plants that are not in optimal health.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by realoldbeachbum

I suppose I should start rewatering Catts when condensation first appears?

Watering balance is so important and difficult to learn for us orchid newbies!! Thanks so much.

Part of the fun of orchid growing is learning both the basics, and how different groups differ.

Catts need to dry out more than Phals. First, original habitats... Phals have ancestors that mostly come from the Philippines, at or near sea level. Hot and humid, lots of rain. They don't have anyplace to store water except in their leaves and roots. Catt ancestors, on the other hand, largely come from somewhat higher elevations in Mexico, Central and South America. They experience longer dry periods, and much higher light. To cope with less-certain and less-frequent rain, they have evolved pseudobulbs to store up water and nutrients. So they are much more resistant to dessication than Phals. Also, in their native environments, they dry out much more.

So... when setting up your watering regimen, you need to water Phals as they approach dryness... don't let them get fully dry. Catts on the other hand, need to get very close to "dry" . Now... remembering this on a daily basis is a nuisance, in a large collection impossible. What I do is choose my media and pots so that I can water everybody the same and have different results. For instance, I will use medium bark and plastic pots for the Phals, large bark and open baskets or clay pots for the Catts. With the same watering frequency, the Phals stay damp and the Catts dry out.

[realoldbeachbum]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Part of the fun of orchid growing is learning both the basics, and how different groups differ.

Catts need to dry out more than Phals. First, original habitats... Phals have ancestors that mostly come from the Philippines, at or near sea level. Hot and humid, lots of rain. They don't have anyplace to store water except in their leaves and roots. Catt ancestors, on the other hand, largely come from somewhat higher elevations in Mexico, Central and South America. They experience longer dry periods, and much higher light. To cope with less-certain and less-frequent rain, they have evolved pseudobulbs to store up water and nutrients. So they are much more resistant to dessication than Phals. Also, in their native environments, they dry out much more.

So... when setting up your watering regimen, you need to water Phals as they approach dryness... don't let them get fully dry. Catts on the other hand, need to get very close to "dry" . Now... remembering this on a daily basis is a nuisance, in a large collection impossible. What I do is choose my media and pots so that I can water everybody the same and have different results. For instance, I will use medium bark and plastic pots for the Phals, large bark and open baskets or clay pots for the Catts. With the same watering frequency, the Phals stay damp and the Catts dry out.

Thanks Roberta. I greatly appreciate your advice and will print this and post in my grow room as a reminder!!

[estación seca]

As Ray mentioned, air at the roots is extremely important. In media with very large air spaces Catts and Phals can stay continually moist. In nature they grow on trees with exposed roots and are wet to moist for the entire rainy season.