Rot on Paphiopedilum?

[monivik]

I've only had this one for a couple of months and it's blooming for the first time. But then I discovered a brown spot on the leaf. This is some weeks ago, I cut away the leaf but I didn't want to take more because I really wanted to enjoy that flower. I also took it out of it's pot and got rid of some bark that had some white spots on it. I then realized that it doesn't have that many roots.

To be honest I did't really repot, I just put it back with the same medium, first of all because I didn't have any fresh medium at that time, but also because I don't want to repot it yet, as it's got that flower.

Anyway I don't know how long this type of flower lasts, but it's only been like 2 1/2 weeks. Now the flower is done and I also noticed that the brown spots on the leaves is spreading. I suspect this is some sort of rot.

I feel sad having to cut away the entire growth, but I'm afraid I won't have any other choice as it seems to spread. But that means I would only be left with one growth, as this plant has only got 2. I'd be left with the oldest growth. I hope it will make it.

[Roberta]

The oldest growths on Paphs die back like that, so I don't think that there is a particular problem on that count (Others who do more with Paphs please jump in... ) The lack of roots (related to old, bad medium) is much more concerning. Repot for sure. Because they like to stay on the damp side, Paphs need repotting more frequently than most orchids, two years probably ideal, can be stretched if the bark is high quality. But better to err on the side of "more often". Paphs can be repotted any time. With luck, you'll get a new growth - and new roots. But the new roots may emerge a year or two after the growth, so don't panic if it seems nothing much is happening.

Without roots, you'll need to stabilize the plant after potting. I have found that two wood skewers, one on each side of the plant, works quite well, since there is really nothing on the plant itself that can be a good anchor point for a tie of any sort..

[SouthPark]

The roots look quite ok. Since that brown patch is growing in size, you could assume fungal or/and bacterial activity - and could spray that portion with a copper spray for orchids and then watch the orchid like a hawk. And provide nice gentle air-movement in the growing area. And maybe brown part may stop spreading. Otherwise, can then hit it with monterey garden phos (aka agri-fos).

[Roberta]

Now that I look again at the photos, I agree with SP that roots look fine (Paph roots look different than other orchids), sufficient to hold plant with stability.. Handle with care, they tend to be brittle where they attach to the plant. Just repot in fresh bark. I don't see anything concerning on the old leaf. That's just what they do. The new growth is good, and there will be another coming along soon.

[estación seca]

Older leaves on Paphs get those brown areas. They aren't rot, just old parts of old leaves. The bark looks very old, so I would repot this as soon as you can get more medium. You can grow them well in medium to large bark, hydroponic LECA balls or using the semihydroponic method.

Paphs need to stay moist. As Roberta mentioned, most people repot them every two years, because always-moist bark breaks down faster than bark that dries out.

Paphs grow in fans of leaves. When a fan flowers from the center, it will not flower again. However, it will make more fans from the base, each of which can flower with good care. Already-flowered fans well eventually turn brown and die. I leave them alone until they come out of the pot with the gentlest of tugs.

Houses aren't usually humid enough for any leaf rot problems to start. Plants in the house might rot from the roots when roots get suffocated and die, then rot enters the stem of the plant in the soggy medium. The preventive is to be sure the medium has lots of air spaces.

[SouthPark]

Monivik - to cut down on chances of possibilities of fungal/bacterial activity acting on the leaves or stem etc, I keep the leaves and stem of my paphs dry in my home growing area (which is under a balcony). And air-movement is quite good there. And I just apply water (using my water sprayer nozzle) in the regions toward the outer-half of the pot. I know that paphs can handle moist roots - and do well with moist roots. So I pretty much water each morning -----although when I'm on holidays for say 10 days, somebody that helps me water my orchids actually skips 2 days during summer time!!! And no issues were seen, which was pretty good actually.

I don't get those brown patches, but I have certainly seen the same sort of patches on at least some paphs that came by mail/shipping - but they were dried up. Similar location as in your paph, but maybe halved in size of the patch. If the brown regions dry up, then no concern at all.

If the leaves are relatively old, then don't worry too. Totally agree with ES there. If the relatively new leaves don't get this on them, then don't worry too much. Have some copper spray and/or monterey garden phos, and/or thiomyl on hand - just in case. Not all treatments work on particular attacking organisms (that's if an organism is attacking).

And also consider temperature and/or quick temperature changes on leaves ---- as some effects look like an attack by an organism - but might not be.

Google Drive links:
Paph
Paph - watering

If the temperatures are good, and no abrupt fast changing temps between one temp and a significantly different temp, and the roots don't drown (oxygen starved) - which is what ES mentioned already --- and gentle air-flow (not necessarily constant) in the growing area exists --- flowing over leaves/stems and through pot/media ..... and we provide the occasional supplements like fertiliser and cal-mag (if needed), then the chance of getting the fungal/bacterial issues can become very small indeed.

I did get a rust coloured leaf rot after spider mite attack on a small Paph vietnamense ..... but fortunately -- a copper spray stopped the rot in its tracks. The rot kept spreading on the leaves quite quickly actually - even after applying other systematic fungicides. But when it came to applying the copper ----- incredible turn-around. Amazing comeback!

[Roberta]

SP, remember that you live (and grow orchids) under very different conditions from the OP, who is in the Netherlands and it looks like this plant is indoors. I would expect a lot more fungal and insect problems outdoors in a tropical region than indoors in northern Europe. In the case of the OP's issue, I don't think that there is any need for the big guns. This looks just like normal aging of an old growth.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Roberta

SP, remember that you live (and grow orchids) under very different conditions from the OP, who is in the Netherlands and it looks like this plant is indoors.

Very true Roberta. I do remember and know that. My conditions are tropical here.

If I had been living in Netherlands, and decided to still grow orchids (and most likely would!) ..... then I would likely follow a similar approach as I do now.

The main difference (I expect) would be cost - as in I would likely need to put together a system that controls the temperature, lighting etc. I would likely also have back-up systems - just in case. It would likely cost much much more than what I need for maintaining my orchids in the tropics.

Another consideration would be materials - as in, if leca is available and scoria happens to be unobtainable in the size or quantity I need, then I'd probably go for leca. Not round leca though ------ slightly crushed or smashed up in possible.

An important consideration too - would be reliability of electrical power systems, and how easy it would/could be to install fuel generator systems - and whether it's easy or feasible to get more fuel during times of snow blizzards or weather events. And how much fuel could be stored in the particular kind of home. All of this would be part of deciding how and what to grow (if I did choose to grow).

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by SouthPark

Very true Roberta. I do remember and know that. My conditions are tropical here.

If I had been living in Netherlands, and decided to still grow orchids (and most likely would!) ..... then I would likely follow a similar approach as I do now.

The main difference (I expect) would be cost - as in I would likely need to put together a system that controls the temperature, lighting etc. I would likely also have back-up systems - just in case. It would likely cost much much more than what I need for maintaining my orchids in the tropics.

Another consideration would be materials - as in, if leca is available and scoria happens to be unobtainable in the size or quantity I need, then I'd probably go for leca. Not round leca though ------ slightly crushed or smashed up in possible.

An important consideration too - would be reliability of electrical power systems, and how easy it would/could be to install fuel generator systems - and whether it's easy for feasible to get more fuel during times of snow blizzards or weather events. And how much fuel could be stored in the particular kind of home. All of this would be part of deciding how and what to grow (if I did choose to grow).

Or simply select orchids that can be grown on a windowsill, or under the conditions that one already has... like the Paph in question. Eventually everyone wants to expand... but it's a gradual process. It starts with one... like eating one peanut. Whether it is one Paph or one Phalanopsis or one Cymbidium (me)... they're all "gateway drugs".

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Roberta

It starts with one... like eating one peanut. Whether it is one Paph or one Phalanopsis or one Cymbidium (me)... they're all "gateway drugs".

hahahaha !!!!! Roberta - you are a classic example of an orchid growing fan. I'll remember this one ------ about the peanuts and gateway drugs haha. TWO of the best descriptions ever