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  #21  
Old 08-12-2020, 03:26 AM
monivik monivik is offline
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Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
I would let the Phal hierogylphica go ahead and produce its flowers. It may, indeed, make a keiki (actually, a basal growth) if it has good roots. (Remember, those roots can photosynthesize, so it does have an energy source even with no leaves. I think at this point, let nature do what it will... Basal growths are one of the strategies that monopodial plants have to survive. It won't grow more leaves from the (now dead) crown, but it can still surprise you.

Pyrethrin is made from chrysanthemum flowers, hence the "natural" or "organic" label.. It is a very good insecticide (and I think miticide as well).
Thanks... yeah, I guess that's all I can do now let nature take it's course just see how it goes.

The bark has arrived so I could repot it properly now. It's at the moment standing in loosely packed spaghnum moss, but it's so hot in my apartment right now I notice it dries out quickly I have to keep spraying it with water. Yesterday was 87.8F ... insanely hot I guess the hot temperatures isn't helping (I think that's what made the mealybugs increase so quickly)

---------- Post added at 02:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:15 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Fakename View Post
Phal hieroglyphica is one of those species that quite often sends new basal growths so there's still hope.
Yours seems to have nice roots and enough leaves, it'll bounce back.
Thanks I don't know if it will make it, but I hope. I'd be even more disappointed if I lost all the 4 sick orchids that I've got now.

Yeah about the roots, I noticed some of them are starting to dry out.
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  #22  
Old 08-12-2020, 04:22 AM
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Mr.Fakename Mr.Fakename is offline
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Orchids can be more resilient than we think!

How long have you had the plants for? Drying roots may just be adaptation to your conditions and not a major issue.

It's a common thing to boil or soak new bark to "prepare" it to hold moisture. It might help against the heatwave.
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  #23  
Old 08-12-2020, 01:01 PM
monivik monivik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Fakename View Post
Orchids can be more resilient than we think!

How long have you had the plants for? Drying roots may just be adaptation to your conditions and not a major issue.

It's a common thing to boil or soak new bark to "prepare" it to hold moisture. It might help against the heatwave.
For about a month and a half. Well, the changing conditions here is that my house went from temperatures of 25C and below that (77F) to over 30C (86F), just suddenly a change in weather.
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2020, 04:03 PM
monivik monivik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
I would let the Phal hierogylphica go ahead and produce its flowers. It may, indeed, make a keiki (actually, a basal growth) if it has good roots. (Remember, those roots can photosynthesize, so it does have an energy source even with no leaves. I think at this point, let nature do what it will... Basal growths are one of the strategies that monopodial plants have to survive. It won't grow more leaves from the (now dead) crown, but it can still surprise you.
Ok, so an update. I finally got the bark that I ordered. But turns out the bark pieces are humungus!!! I really had to dig in there and pick out the medium pieces.

Anyway, the Hieroglyphica has the best roots at the moment, but indeed the crown looks dead.

The Schilleriana on the other hand apparantely didn't like the spaghnum moss it was in for a couple of days until the bark came. Some of the roots had mould!
Some of the roots also have dried out on the upper part, I mean close to the base of the orchid, but the ends are still green. It has one new root it seems to be growing that is at least still ok.

The thing is because of the mould I repotted it now, but now I don't dare to water it. I thought I'll let it dry until tomorrow morning. Is that ok? I mean if I water it the next morning?

The Paphiopedilum I haven't repotted yet. This is the only one that I haven't actually seen any mealybugs on, but I am assuming that the black spots on the leaves mean that it does have them. So I've also treated this one with the spray.

The bottle says repeat spraying after a week.
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2020, 04:45 PM
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SouthPark SouthPark is offline
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monivik - the bark pieces you finally used for the potting can still work I reckon.

Very dry bark pieces just need to be primed with water in advance - before potting. Soaked for an adequately long time, and then drained nicely until damp. And then can use it for potting.

Otherwise, dry bark repels water nicely, and so watering the dry bark usually results in water just running straight through the pot.

Also - for cases where the bark is allowed to dry a fair bit between watering ----- some people say that 'slow' watering (spray nozzle) allows the water to properly wet/re-wet the dry bark --- otherwise, a barrage of water going to fast through the bark is thought to just quickly through the gaps and straight out the bottom of the pot.

So adequate wetting is needed for bark ------ and dryness of the bark should be considered when watering.

For this one here - (your orchid) - a spray of copper on the leaves and stem, then tipping the plant carefully on the side to get any sprayed copper water lodged in the crown region ------ then allow to dry with gentle air-movement and nice temperature .......... will likely see this plant on its way (good way) again.
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  #26  
Old 08-13-2020, 04:56 PM
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Roberta Roberta is offline
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A thought with regard to large bark pieces for the Phals... these likely will actually do well for you long term. I have found that species Phals, in particular, are a lot happier in baskets, with the opportunity to dry out between waterings. They get a little more moisture and humidity than they do being just mounted - which the also love if they get enough humidity.
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  #27  
Old 08-14-2020, 02:45 AM
monivik monivik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPark View Post
monivik - the bark pieces you finally used for the potting can still work I reckon.

Very dry bark pieces just need to be primed with water in advance - before potting. Soaked for an adequately long time, and then drained nicely until damp. And then can use it for potting. Otherwise, dry bark repels water nicely, and so watering the dry bark usually results in water just running straight through the pot.

For this one here - a spray of copper on the leaves and stem.
Thanks.
Well, actually when I got the bag with the bark it was wet on the inside. So the bark was all wet and humid already.

---------- Post added at 01:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
A thought with regard to large bark pieces for the Phals... these likely will actually do well for you long term. I have found that species Phals, in particular, are a lot happier in baskets, with the opportunity to dry out between waterings. They get a little more moisture and humidity than they do being just mounted - which the also love if they get enough humidity.
Thanks, I do think that the bark will be handy for my other big Phals. But at the moment these two Phals are pretty small in size. That's why I searched out the medium pieces, I also mixed with some small pieces of bark that I still had.

The air in my house though is to be honest most of the year dry.
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  #28  
Old 01-02-2021, 01:28 AM
nuriko1set nuriko1set is offline
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I saw this product, the 24oz, in Amazon. It says for use in roses, flowers and shrubs. Does that matter, or is that not the same one?

One of my new phal. came.with mealybugs. I'm so thankful I saw it before putting it together with the other plant that it shipped with. Same situation here, the other orchid doesn't seem to be infested, crossing my fingers. I also sprayed.with neem oil, soap and water mixture. But I'm thinking, I agree with Ray, in that this pesticide is more sure.

How far do you all suggest for the quarantined plant to be from the other plants?

Happy New Year everyone!! Thank you!!
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