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  #121  
Old 05-04-2019, 01:59 AM
kg5 kg5 is offline
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Bees are very interesting wisdomseeker!

This link is about Australian bees

Native Bees of Queensland Poster | Etsy

Have done a lot of hands on and also coupled with diploma courses on entomology. There is a relatively close for us local Australian bee club that meets once a month. So yes we are very interested in both Austroplebeia & Tetragonula. We want to be sure that the native bees we have here are not going to get smashed by us introducing other bees hives mentioned. We have researched as much as we can.

We are just so protected from all the nasties that the world has to deal with concerning bees.

Very common for a native bee colony that is in a hollow log to be sold for about $40 but we want hives. Our next step is to try one hive very soon. It must be stingless. Water lilies are a bees best friend. We get so much blossom here from native trees and our garden. It is just a must do thing for us.
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  #122  
Old 05-04-2019, 10:58 AM
HailStarscream HailStarscream is offline
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Apologies if this has already been answered (I didn't want to read through 12 pages...) but does anyone know why my noid airplant has its tips turn brown and crispy? I thought it was over water, so I cut back the watering, but it didn't make it any better. Honestly, I only water it when I remember to with my orchids. I'll soak it until I'm like "OH NO, my airplant!!" and take it out a few hours later.
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  #123  
Old 05-04-2019, 06:19 PM
kg5 kg5 is offline
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Hi HailStarscream

Tip damage has never been talked about here. Maybe others can help here too.

Yes the dieing off of the Tillandsia leaf tips is one of those things. Believe it comes from the plant being stressed in some way. They will correct themselves over time.

It could be to much sun or not enough sun. The way we handle plants and plants that are not packed properly through the mail get tip damage as well.

Sometimes in happens when the plant is dormant and will repair itself come next grow season as well.

I see it as a plant that needs to be moved into a better area normally for me here. What a better place is can be a real challenge but I get it eventually.

Tip damage is not so bad it is when the middle of the plant starts to rot from over watering usually it is a terminal Tillandsia condition.

Hope I have been helpful. Am still in a huge learning curve about growing Tillandsia.
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  #124  
Old 05-14-2019, 06:24 PM
kg5 kg5 is offline
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Bit of a side track.

But believe it is of interest and the bees also fit in very nicely with the water lilies that now have a nursery area in one of our Tillandsia bush houses.

Indiana Miniature Hardy Water Lily.



So we have purchased a bee hive. It gets mailed next Monday express post. From not very far from here.
Bit more info Nowra is coastal and 1,200km or 750m colder climate than here.

Thanks for your interest in native stingless bees! We have hives for sale. Only warmer climates from around Nowra north are suitable for these bees. The most suitable species for coastal areas around Brisbane or Sydney is Tetragonula carbonaria, the common local species. This is the species we would recommend for Southern Morton Bay Islands.

Attached is a document with information to help you prepare for your hive.


The box is of a honey hive design. It has an extra compartment on top, a honey super, which allows you to remove honey with minimal disruption to the nest (but note that the bees produce only small amounts of honey). Honey hives are also designed for division and suitable for pollination. We recommend honey hives even if you don’t intend to extract honey, as they have better insulation on the top and so are generally better homes for the bees. The hives are professionally made, built of 25 mm thick plantation-grown hoop pine, nailed and glued, and painted (three coats). It is guaranteed to fit together precisely (important for sealing out natural enemies and climatic extremes), and to last for many years. The bottom of the mid-section (where you divide a hive) has built-in bars to prevent slumping after a division. Your hive comes with a detachable metal roof to protect it from the rain and sun. The roof extends the life of the box and reflects heat to keep the hive cool in summer.

Sugarbag Bees guarantee the survival of hives for one year as long as they are treated properly. If your hive dies, we will replace it, free of charge, upon return of the original box. Note that we cannot guarantee a hive that experiences temperatures of greater than 42 deg C, receives direct sun after 10 am in summer, is kept outside their natural geographical range, is opened, is divided, or has honey extracted.



You can keep them anywhere in a sheltered position around your house. A veranda is usually good as they are protected there and you can watch them more easily. Positioning is very important – it can make or break a colony. If you want to put the hive out in the open, you will need to place them in a dry raised position. Hives should be well shaded from 10am in summer. Morning sun on the hive in winter can help get the bees up and going. Hives are not easily moved once in place, so please let us know if you have any questions with positioning before the arrival of your bees, but the position you have described sounds quite ideal. Once the bees are released you can move the hive up to 1m per day in any direction, so if you find the position too sunny in summer, you can inch it back to somewhere more shaded.


There is very little you need to know to keep your hive successfully but if you want to divide it or extract honey, or just understand more about them, come along to a workshop, read the book, or see the videos. The cost to attend a workshop is variable depending on the workshop. For dates and locations, see the website.

Last edited by kg5; 05-14-2019 at 06:35 PM..
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  #125  
Old 05-14-2019, 08:00 PM
wisdomseeker wisdomseeker is offline
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Keep us posted on the 'new hive' and your beekeeping experiences.

I don't know how you guys handle maintenance/honey collection tasks, but "Aussie" stingless bees would be a nice option to have in my neck of the woods. It might eliminate the need of taping my pant legs around my ankles, taping my long sleeve shirt cuffs around the gloves on my hands, putting on my beekeeping head protection, and then firing up the bee smoker before doing any hive maintenance/honey collection... "sting city" otherwise.

If I approach a hive, those "stinger-honey-bee" hive guards sense a threat (hive is aroused) and they release an 'alarm' pheromone that is a cry for battle & war, encouraging other bees to join in on the fight to protect the hive. It is amazing how a cloud of cool white smoke calms down the swarm and mellows them out (it disrupts their battle cry alarms).

I've been told (at beekeeper meetings) that researchers think when a honey bee smell smokes, they go straight to their stores of honey because they sense there is a forest fire. Then they fill their stomachs with honey in case they have to evacuate.

Burlap used to be my 'smoke fuel' of choice for calming bees, but because I live in a heavily saturated area of pine trees I now use pine straw (it produces lots of cool white smoke & it is plentiful and free$). Colonies don't wander very far from the hives if you keep a water source close by.

By the way ~ that is a *very nice* strain of 'hardy' water lily in your photo.
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  #126  
Old 05-21-2019, 03:25 AM
kg5 kg5 is offline
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Honey Bees really fit in our plant nursery house type landscape design. It is all coming together nicely.

Our Australian Native Stingless Bee Hive arrived in perfect condition through the mail today. It has been positioned on top of a stump next to our lotus pond.

How the hive arrived.



Our new stingless bee hive in place. The hive looks to be about a 1/3 the size of a more normal commercial bee hive. The bees look to be that much smaller as well to stinging honey bee.



Sugarbees had to get special permission to mail the bee hive to us.



A couple of images of bee hive business owners book on stingless bees. This is the reason we purchased off him because everyone was referring to his knowledge. We will end up with a large number of stingless bee hives. Just for our personal pleasure.

Australian Stingless Bee book 248 pages with great images.






Last edited by kg5; 05-21-2019 at 03:28 AM..
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  #127  
Old 06-01-2019, 06:41 AM
kg5 kg5 is offline
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Many of the Tillandsia are in flower now. We have just a bit of cold weather which brings them into flowering.Nice time to be around the bush houses.

T.stricta



(left is) T. stricta & T.stricta red

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  #128  
Old 08-22-2019, 09:37 PM
kg5 kg5 is offline
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Some new incoming Tillandsia and some to get number to target.

Sunrise image from new camera! About time!



Box of plants from my wholesaler.



Tillandsia broken down into varieties.



Tillandsia Cotton Candy




Tillandsia Cotton Candy Green



Tillandsia Cotton Candy Compacta



Tillandsia ionantha Pink Beauty clumps



Tillandsia bulbosa (small form)clumps



Tillandsia tricholepsis



Tillandsia tricholepsis pups

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  #129  
Old 08-22-2019, 09:44 PM
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Leafmite Leafmite is offline
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Tillandsia tricholepsis really caught my eye! I like all of them but that one is different from the ones I currently have. The cotton candy is really pretty in bloom.
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  #130  
Old 08-23-2019, 06:00 PM
kg5 kg5 is offline
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Hi Leafmite.

Would be very nice to see an image of your Tillandsia tricholepsis plants. Am very interested.

Tillandsia tricholepsis ready to hang into their growing position. This image seems to be a truer colour on my screen.



A simular looker Tillandsia heteromorpha



A simular looker Tillandsia funckiana (small form)

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