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01-22-2021, 09:29 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 20
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In search of bad phal roots clarification
I'm confused...
I've read Orchid Board posts that say to cut off all bad/dead/mushy roots - at the crown.
I've read posts that say just remove the dead velum, and leave the bare roots.
And, I've read posts that imply "never cut any roots off of a phal".
And therefor I seek proper guidance as to what the hell should I do with this Germaine Vincent...and bad phal roots in general?
The plant looks pretty good, but the roots...well...
Any sound advice will be much appreciated!
Karl G.
(I did skim through the end-all be-all phal pages here, but I'm still not sure what I should do)
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01-22-2021, 10:12 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 17,981
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Those roots are mostly healthy. People can't reliably tell which roots are dead. That is why I advise not cutting them off unless they are black, wet and slimy.
That looks like a typical summer flowering Phal. They like high temperatures and can look poorly in cool winter homes.
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01-22-2021, 10:45 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Aug 2020
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Thank you for your response.
Maybe the photo can't depict the fact that just about every root has no substance - when I squeeze them there is nothing there to feel but the actual root itself.
Should I re pot (into semi-hydro) "as is"?
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01-22-2021, 11:26 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Zone: 9b
Location: Central Coast of California
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I can’t give an opinion on de semi-hydro but if you’re growing under cool conditions you may want to consider supplemental heat since evaporative cooling will make things even colder.
For Phal roots, I cut if they’re mushy all the way from the stem to the end of the root. If there are any sections that are firm: I leave the root as it’s still at least somewhat functional. It’s really important to be very careful if deciding to cut that you don’t accidentally remove any of these semi functional roots if root health isn’t great.
In my experience most of these semi functional roots will die following a repot. But, if you repot the Phal into conditions it likes, the old roots will stay functional long enough for new roots to establish. If all the roots are bad, leave enough dead roots intact to securely anchor the plant.
If the Phal is a new acquisition, you can likely blame the poor roots on the previous grower. If you’ve had it awhile examine your husbandry practices and growing conditions especially substrate, watering, and temperature.
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01-23-2021, 12:26 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 441
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I'll second everything alice has said.
The reason some growers don't cut rotting roots off is because they think it makes no difference. To me a few rotting roots is not too bad but if it is more than a few then the substrate can acidify, bacteria and fungus can grow so I prefer cutting any roots that are not firm or just pull the velamen off and leave the root as that doesn't rot or even if it does it turns more wood like unlike the velamen which turns everything soggy. So try to remove the really shrivelled and brown bits. From the picture it looks like 20% can be removed and 80% should be okish.
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01-24-2021, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl G.
Should I re pot (into semi-hydro) "as is"?
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No. S/H culture is not a particularly good way to rescue ailing plants - unless your growing conditions are hot and humid.
Take a look at this.
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01-24-2021, 08:34 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl G.
Thank you for your response.
Maybe the photo can't depict the fact that just about every root has no substance - when I squeeze them there is nothing there to feel but the actual root itself.
Should I re pot (into semi-hydro) "as is"?
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Typical for plants from Norman's Orchids / Orchids.com. They are the absolute worst vendor out there. Not even worth trying to get compensation.
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01-24-2021, 12:28 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2017
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Maybe it’s a bit of a gamble, but I’ve ordered a lot of Phalaenopsis from Norman’s at this point, so far all have had really good roots when I received them. I don’t have great conditions (temperatures usually stay in the low 70s) for growing Phalaenopsis in sphagnum so I usually give them a week or two to settle in and then repot into bark. Norman’s tends to send them well watered so sometimes in the winter I repot as soon as I get them.
I’m not saying this is the case here, but if Phalaenopsis are kept at room temperatures (low 70s and below) in wet sphagnum, root death can occur pretty rapidly. I find it really easy to accidentally overwater and set myself up for trouble with Phalaenopsis potted in sphagnum.
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01-24-2021, 01:38 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Aug 2020
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I'm not sure about the rules of engagement on this forum,
but I'll just say that Normans is a really good guess.
What I have learned so far (as Alice stated), is to repot incoming phals much sooner than I have been. The results of waiting 3 or 4 months are shown in the photos...sigh...
Ray, thanks for you input as well.
I'm definitely going to use your product and soak the plant and new medium, but I'm going try still try the s/h, and put a bag over that. Seems like that would trap at least as much humidity as a plastic pot, if not more.
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01-23-2021, 01:26 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
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If a Phal doesn't look right the problem is almost always a problem with growing conditions. It is never a problem of needing roots cut off.
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