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03-16-2008, 01:53 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Zone: 6a
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 599
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Flourescent Lighting - help needed
Hi everyone!
Well, now I've done it. I bought a 'used' lighting/plant stand.
It has 3 sets of lights which holds two 48" lights each plus two screw-ins for incandenscent/or flourescent bulbs. (one set of lights on each level - 3 levels)
My first question is, should I use one cool and one warm tube? and if so, is 40w sufficient? And, do I need to use the screw-in type incandescent as well? or leave them empty? How many lumens should I be looking for, for each type and what is considered warm? daylight? sunshine? I really need lots of help here.
Also, I need to find something to cover the plant stand with. Someone suggested I use a 'white' plastic as opposed to a clear. Someone else suggested a 2mm clear plastic cover opened at the sides.
I'm new at this so ANY help/tips would be greatly appreciated.
Also, do I have to introduce the orchids slowly to this new lighting system? or just pop them all in and hope for the best? In reading the other forum entries, I'm hearing that the plants should be 4-6" below the lights?
Thanks again everyone!
Helen
__________________
Grow on!
Helen
"Staring at the pattern of the flecks was dizzying. Staring at it for a long time was hypnotizing. - Susan Orlean's "The Orchid Thief"
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03-16-2008, 02:07 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Zone: 4a
Location: Bailey, Colorado
Posts: 2,203
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I would seriously try using clear showercurtains and cutting them to fit your stand.
I tried making a curtain out of translucent plastic and it fit perfectly but I couldn't see a thing through it. And I wanted to get in there to look all the time. . .you know, stare time. . .and even though I used magnetic tape so I could open and shut the door easily, I didn't just love it.
If you clever with a sewing machine, you could make a custom fitted cover with two zippers in the front. . .use clear plastic.
About the distance from the lights. . .I did just pop mine in but I placed them further from the light than I thought they needed. . .and I've been adjusting that distance since then. I am watching leaf color and checking for any signs of leaf burn or leaves turning red etc.
G'Luck!
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03-16-2008, 02:49 PM
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Roots are good
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Zone: 5a
Location: Cadillac, Michigan, USA
Posts: 7,417
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I'm with Gwen. Start slow and adjust plants up till the leaves turn yellowish. No need for red. As for bulbs try this site Linear Fluorescent Tubes This Company is very trustworthy and has good products at decent prices.
__________________
Ross
http://orchids-ross.blogspot.com/
I don't do most Dendros or large, "floofy orchids". For me it's minis (like Angraecoides), Paphs, and others that crept in somewhere along the line. See my orchid list for complete collection (usually not current.)
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03-17-2008, 10:59 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Zone: 6a
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross
I'm with Gwen. Start slow and adjust plants up till the leaves turn yellowish. No need for red. As for bulbs try this site Linear Fluorescent Tubes This Company is very trustworthy and has good products at decent prices.
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What type of bulb could I use? are T12 ok at 40 w? I don't know the total amount of lumens I need for my two light system...Or do I need a full spectrum or wide spectrum...so many to choose from...thanks
Helen
__________________
Grow on!
Helen
"Staring at the pattern of the flecks was dizzying. Staring at it for a long time was hypnotizing. - Susan Orlean's "The Orchid Thief"
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03-17-2008, 11:21 AM
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Roots are good
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Zone: 5a
Location: Cadillac, Michigan, USA
Posts: 7,417
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Helen, t12 will be the dimmest of the tubes. T8 and next brightest and T5 are the brightest. They are not interchangeable. Your fixture is designed for one type bulb and that's what you need to buy. Increase the light by moving the plants closer to the bulbs.
__________________
Ross
http://orchids-ross.blogspot.com/
I don't do most Dendros or large, "floofy orchids". For me it's minis (like Angraecoides), Paphs, and others that crept in somewhere along the line. See my orchid list for complete collection (usually not current.)
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03-17-2008, 08:17 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Zone: 4a
Location: Avon, MN
Age: 51
Posts: 51
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Helen
You may not have a choice of florescent tubes to use. Your fixture may only except t12 bulbs or it may only except t8 bulbs. In either case I would use a mix of cool white and warm white. The cool white gives you the blue light needed for growth, the warm white gives you the red light for flower production. The standard 40 watt or 34 watt will do fine for growing. The plants need to be about 6 inches from the lights and be on for no more than 16 hours a day.
Jayme
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03-18-2008, 10:32 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Zone: 6a
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhennek
Helen
You may not have a choice of florescent tubes to use. Your fixture may only except t12 bulbs or it may only except t8 bulbs. In either case I would use a mix of cool white and warm white. The cool white gives you the blue light needed for growth, the warm white gives you the red light for flower production. The standard 40 watt or 34 watt will do fine for growing. The plants need to be about 6 inches from the lights and be on for no more than 16 hours a day.
Jayme
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Thank you very much Jayme! So I don't need the supplementary screw-in type incandescent bulbs then?
Helen
__________________
Grow on!
Helen
"Staring at the pattern of the flecks was dizzying. Staring at it for a long time was hypnotizing. - Susan Orlean's "The Orchid Thief"
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03-18-2008, 05:35 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Zone: 3a
Location: winnipeg
Posts: 1,011
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since you already have the setup for the srewin bulbs., i would add the cfl,s23 watts min anyways
more light is better, and for $12 you can buy them at rona
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dialog is the lubricant for tolerence .!
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03-18-2008, 11:57 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 77
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Many years ago, incandescents were recommended to add red wavelength to the fluorescent tubes. These days you will come across mixed opinions on whether this is necessary or not. Maybe someone with more understanding of light coloration can explain it. I don't bother, but most of my lights get supplemented by some window light.
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04-10-2008, 11:08 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 16
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I'll chime in on this, incandescent is useless for growing plants, very inefficient, produces a fair bit of heat, and very low lumens. A better choice IMO, daylight cfl's, or even just the regular ones, but get the higher wattage(eg 23w, 27w, just the highest you can) to use in those screw in fixtures.
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