Mounted Phals - Orchid Board

cneos · #1 (**permalink**) 09-16-2007, 10:00 PM

Harry Philips of Andy's Orchids recently shared a great idea for growing phalaenopsis as mounted plants. In this case, the mount is a vanda basket. When turned on its side, the basket replicates a phal's natural habitat in a tree crotch. Only drawback for this approach is wghat to do to display them in the house or at a show.

I've moved a few phals into this new environment and am happy with the results. I'd be interested to hear if any OB members are growing this way and for your comments.

Photos show a 'modified' technique - gutter guard (hardware cloth) to line the basket, then a 1/4" layer of sphagnum moss, then well-draining bark mix, then at top is covering of gutter guard (instead of fishing line wrap) to hold everything in the basket.

All plants are in 6" vanda baskets ... roots are teased through the gutter guard.

shakkai · #2 (**permalink**) 09-17-2007, 02:12 AM

I had tried something similar after seeing how Sue has her species Phals. The only drawback I've found so far is that the plant is very 'front heavy' and is therefore difficult for me to balance and keep stable. With a long heavy flower spike, the plants kept wanting to tip forward.

Will you cut the screen on the top off when you have to repot? Or will you detach it from the basket and try to lift the whole thing out? (That seems a bit scary if there are a lot of roots coming through...)

Neverend · #3 (**permalink**) 09-17-2007, 07:28 AM

The moss looks a bit tight, otherwise I think it's a great setup, provided the roots are strong.

cneos · #4 (**permalink**) 09-17-2007, 08:40 AM

I hear you about being 'front heavy' ... a friend has his anchored to a mesh wall.

I haven't even thought about repotting yet - vanda baskets outlast the plants that are put in them. Will probably do as we do with vandae - clip off dead roots and put the whole thing into a larger basket.

shakkai · #5 (**permalink**) 09-17-2007, 08:58 AM

Anchoring in some way is the best solution, I think. Good idea with the 'dropping on'... I was just wondering about the bark-mix breaking down, and how easy it would be to replace that. I know I can't get my fingers through the gaps in the baskets that I have.

Sorry, just 'thinking out loud'! All in all, I like this system, so I am just working things out in my head.

cneos · #6 (**permalink**) 09-17-2007, 10:20 AM

the mix that I used was 1/3 medium orchid bark, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 fine charcoal. The largest plant in the photo had been potted this way in clear plastic container for about eighteen months. When I cleaned it up, that old bark was still pretty solid at the top of the pot; less so at the bottom. Hopefully, the airiness of the new set-up will let the medium break down more evenly.

BTW, I may experiment with one plant by turning the basket ninety degrees every week or so to see if this contributes to straightening / strengthening the main growth. Will not do this however in presence of any inflorescences.

dave b · #7 (**permalink**) 09-17-2007, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cneos

the mix that I used was 1/3 medium orchid bark, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 fine charcoal. The largest plant in the photo had been potted this way in clear plastic container for about eighteen months. When I cleaned it up, that old bark was still pretty solid at the top of the pot; less so at the bottom. Hopefully, the airiness of the new set-up will let the medium break down more evenly.

BTW, I may experiment with one plant by turning the basket ninety degrees every week or so to see if this contributes to straightening / strengthening the main growth. Will not do this however in presence of any inflorescences.

Each time you hit the 90, 180, and 270 deg position, the plant will be out of whack. The phal in pics 2 and 3 is 90 deg off natural position now. When grown in the manner you are, they will begin to naturally droop, flattening the leaves topside up, in a fan-like projection. Spinning it all the time wont allow it to settle as it desires.

One of the nice things about having them hang more naturally like this is that water freely drains away from the crown. One less thing to worry about. The blooms will now hang in a natural position also. No more bamboo stakes and clips. Plants with long inflorescences will probably have to be hung to accommodate the bloom.

cneos · #8 (**permalink**) 09-18-2007, 10:40 AM

Turning the basket may not do anything positive for the plant.

The plant (Phal. Bill Williamson) in photos 2 and 3 are oriented that way so as not to damage the roots that are coming through the basket on a (near) horizontal plane.

I chose this plant for the basket because it was literally leaping out of the pot on the top of its roots. The weight of the leaf mass was such that the entire plant leaned to one side, giving the appearance of it's being mounted. Inflorescences emerged from the top and bottom of the leaf mass and it was an effort to keep them and the pot in an upright position when we had the plant indoors for display.

I appreciate your looking and your comments.

Dorothy · #9 (**permalink**) 09-18-2007, 11:24 AM

Your second photo is classic!
I love the license plate and the antiques in the background.
Your orchids give the 'wow' effect!

Beauties

I can see with all the weight of the flowers how hanging would be advantageous and would produce that wonderful waterfall effect.

cb977 · #10 (**permalink**) 09-18-2007, 12:10 PM

Hi Joanna

All of my Phal species are in baskets like this

I start with some damp sphag (this is almost the only time I use sphag) then place the plant in the center. I use some twist-tie through the bottom of the basket to pull the base of the plant tighter, then add more sphag and tie it up like any other mount I do.

The Phal species love it

I'm thinking of changing all of the Phal hybrids over to this type of mount.