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  #11  
Old 10-18-2007, 09:52 AM
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littlefrog littlefrog is offline
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Where are you in indiana? I only ask because I have an extra greenhouse in pieces in my yard...
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2007, 10:10 AM
smweaver smweaver is offline
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I live in Fishers, which is a suburb on the north side of Indianapolis.
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2008, 09:51 AM
mojomick mojomick is offline
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Check out COSTCO. They carry SunGlo greenhouses and the prices are very reasonable. Also their kits include a lot of incisde extras, like benches, lights, etc. I purchased one in Feb. and am thrilled with the results. The directions were easy to follow and I am now enjoying the fruits of my labor with lots of orchids in bloom.
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2008, 10:40 AM
smweaver smweaver is offline
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Yes, I'll definitely check them out. Thanks for the tip!
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2008, 02:18 PM
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dounoharm dounoharm is offline
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well you didnt mention your price range, but here is a link to the kit i bought and put together. i think its pretty and it didnt kill me to build it, tho i pulled some hair out occasionally, lol......and help seemed to come at opportune moments to get me over the humps....Backyard Pro Greenhouse - FarmTek
i found farmtek to be very helpful and the instructions were good. the freight was to be picked up out of the truck but they warned me and i was ready with help. there were a few two man boxes to move. farmtek also sold the equipment kits, heater fans vents etc. and i was pleased with what i got from them. i had a plumber run the water into the greenhouse, which i put on a leveled gravel base, and i had an electrician wire for me as i wanted lots of plugs for fans etc. all in all it was well worth the time and work. i dont know how to put an image in here but i will put one in my gallery for those interested.
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  #16  
Old 11-16-2008, 03:04 PM
Ranchnanny Ranchnanny is offline
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Hi Steve I will give you my regarding greenhouses. When I lived on the Oregon Coast I purchased a Sunglo greenhouse from the manufacturer and it was constructed on an old large concrete side porch that was in the 70's. I loved it it had everything I needed as I was growing Orchid Cactus. Water, elec. and heat were all there at the side of the house. We left there in 1984 and it is still there.. I now live in Central Oregon north of Bend, Oregon and plan on buying another Sunglo to house my Orchid collection and it will be a leanto just like the first one. However this one won't have direct access from the house as my other one did. You can go to the manufacturers website and order a catalog or just call them and talk to them. There were no problems with water leaking during the rainy season that's why we moved east to the high desert. Here its the heat in summer and the very cold winters so the Sunglo will be wonderful with its dual wall covering. Good Luck

Sheridan
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  #17  
Old 11-16-2008, 03:43 PM
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stonedragonfarms stonedragonfarms is offline
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Hello Steve, I live in the upper Mid-west (Northern half of the lower peninsula) and built my current greenhouse from a kit, though I ordered from a couple of different companies and customized my structure (plus it was actually cheaper to order my glazing and some of the other assorted equipment by going this route)...that being said, I'll take a whack at your questions as best I can...
1) Is there such a thing as an all-inclusive kit, or do most of them just contain the basics for constructing the physical structure itself? As per the other posts, there is such a thing, but most that I have encountered are quite small; unless you show great restraint or are growing something super specialized (maybe pleurothallids only lets say...), you will probably want to get the largest structure that you can reasonably maintain (sort of like buying an aquarium): a. you will have more room to grow in to, b. a large space is much more stable in terms of temperature changes, c. you have the ability to create more microclimates...just to name a few reasons
2) Do most of you who own a greenhouse have a water source plumbed inside of it, or do you simply run the hose from the spigot on the back of your house into the greenhouse? I do not have my gh plumbed inside, in the warmer months (May-November) I have a hose that is attached to a spigot right outside the gh door. In the winter I carry water from the house, though I only water the majority of my collection once every ten days or so during this time, so it's no big hassel.
3) Is it a good idea to have a cement slab poured in advance to accomodate the structure, or is it advisable to simply have the greenhouse sit on a bed of gravel, brick patio, wooden deck, etc.? I poured/mixed (by hand) the footings for the gh after the frame arrived; I'd say it took me about 3 days to dig out the holes and lay out the forms for the footings, as well as to fill them. They were set/cured enough to work with about 72 hrs. later. The floor of my gh is 10" of pea gravel over 2" of foam insulation (the type that basements are wrapped with before they backfill with earth)
4) How do you run electricity from the house to the greenhouse to power the misting system, heater, vents and fans? I trenched from my Dad's workshop to the gh, and laid down the wiring. There is a board in the gh for the systems within it, and it pulls from a master board in the workshop.
5) How easy/hard, on a scale of 1 to 10, is it to build a greenhouse from a kit? It was quite easy to build the gh that I purchased, though it took quite a bit longer than I had planned--if myself and a helper would have had 4-5 days of doing nothing but greenhouse construction, I think we could have had it up in a week; as it was, we started around thanksgiving and finished about 5 months later...there just was not the time in the fall...and we had early snow, so things got pushed back until we could find the frame
The size of greenhouse I'd like to get is somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 to 115 square feet. Thank you in advance to anyone who cares to respond.
I bought the majority of my structure from Cropking (www.cropking.com); the glazing, fans, vents and miscellaneous other items I bought from International Greenhouse Supply (www.greenhousemegastore.com). The furnace I bought locally; I decided that I would rather invest in an item that I knew could be serviced here...so I called up a local supplier that installs heating in barns & garages and let them do some legwork for me. The unit that I decided on was priced less than those at any of the supply firms that I bought supplies from, and I did not have to pay for shipping (plus the dealer came to check that it was properly installed at no fee) My gh is 18x20, and is double inflated poly over a steel frame. This will be my third winter in it, I have little problem with snow accumulation or winds, it is relatively light on the heating expense (though I grow mostly cymbidiums, pleione & dend. moniliforme, so it's a balmy 43-46F at night)--in retrospect, I wish that I would have built a house about twice again the length...but there's always next summer...

Hope that this helps,
Adam
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Last edited by stonedragonfarms; 11-16-2008 at 03:47 PM..
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  #18  
Old 10-02-2009, 12:37 PM
NAgreenhouse NAgreenhouse is offline
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Default Greenhouse Kits - Questions & Answers

Steve -

Question:Is there such a thing as an all-inclusive kit, or do most of them just contain the basics for constructing the physical structure itself?

Answer: Yes, Steve, there is. It all depends on exactly what you want. There are a number of considerations when choosing a greenhouse kit.
1. Greenhouse specifications:
a. Your location and average high's & low's. If you live in the northern 2/3s of the country you need a greenhouse that provides the maximum insulating value. Yes, the sun warms it in the day, but at night when it gets cold, the more insulation the panels provide, the less heat you will have to provide.
b. Plant requirements: Some plants are able to withstand colder temps than others. Orchids are fairly sensitive to temperature variances.
c. Floor Material: You need a floor that not only will drain excess water but ideally store heat during the day and radiate it during the night. Water is the best material to do this, but obviously you don't want a floor of water! I've found that dark colored brick works well. It stores heat during the day and radiates it at night. Cut's down on your heating bill.
d. Panels: I've found that double or triple wall polycarbonate panels are the best. The dead air space is a great insulator. You need at least a 4mm thick twin wall. Triple wall can be expensive. Double wall is a good choice at least 6mm thick and preferably 10mm thick. We have a 10mm twin walled greenhouse. We live in Colorado. Average temp at night in January is 10 degrees F. We have a 10,000 BTU natural gas vented heater in the greenhouse which is 8' W x 14' L x 7' 6" H. When it's 10 above zero, the greenhouse maintains a 75 degree inside temperature.
e. Frame: Most greenhouses come with an aluminum frame. They're strong, but conduct the heat and cold. A polycarbonate frame is better, but more expensive. Not a big consideration, but worth noting.
f. Accessories: Most greenhouse kits just come with the outside structure as manufacturers have found that everyone wants something different inside their greenhouse. There are a few that come with staging tables and even hanging shelves and plant hooks. The ones we've found that have these features are usually just single thickness poly panels. No one has yet to come up with the Perfect Greenhouse for all types of growing.

Water source: I'd start out with just running a hose to your greenhouse. After you experience what it's like doing this, you can always add a water source inside the greenhouse. Take it one step at a time.

Floor: As I mentioned above, you probably don't want a concrete slab unless you also include a drain system and then put a wood slat floor over the concrete slab. I recommend red bricks laid on a compacted sand base. It allows drainage and stores heat during the day and releases it at night.

Electricity: Again, take it one step at a time. To begin with you can run a heavy duty extension cord to power the basics. For the low powered items, consider solar power for the lights and small fans. After you perfect your system, you can always have an electrician run an underground cable encased in a PVC pipe to your greenhouse. He will also install a breaker box and internal wiring with plugs, etc.

How hard is it to build a greenhouse kit?:

Usually it's very easy. The hardest part is preparing the ground, laying the brick (if you use brick), making sure it's perfectly level, etc. Just like any building, the foundation or floor, is the most important part of the building. Once you've got that done, the rest is easy. Most greenhouse kits only require a power screwdriver and pliers. Depending on the size of the greenhouse, it can take you between 4-5 hours or a couple of days.

100 - 115 Square Feet: That's about an 8' x 14' greenhouse. That's a good size to have. It's wide enough for adequate working space in the middle; you can have a 2' center aisle with 3' deep staging tables on each side and the back. Use 2 1/2' wide staging tables on each side and have a 3' aisle.

Hope this helps, Steve. My name is Chuck Cory. I live in Western Colorado and am an avid greenhouse grower. Although I have never used it until I got into greenhouse growing, I have a Masters in Agriculture / Horticulture from Ohio State University. Done some hydroponic growing, but I like working with soil. The hydroponics seems so sterile. I guess I'm just an old dirt farmer.

If you need some sources for good greenhouse kits, just let me know. You can email me at chuckcory81621@yahoo.com.

The most recent greenhouse that I got was an 8' x 14' Twin Walled 10mm Polycarbonate model. We love it. Strong, good insulation properties, nice size and meets all of our needs.

Happy Growing!
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  #19  
Old 12-25-2009, 11:00 AM
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Becca Becca is offline
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Hi everyone. I'm starting my research on greenhouses...I plan on it taking a while....then when I am ready for the greenhouse, I won't have to wait to research everything.

Anyways, my question is for those who have had someone run the electricity and plumbing to your greenhouse in the construction phase of it, how much was it to have this done? Just looking for a ball park is all. I'm trying to get an idea of what the overall price would be to have the electricity and plumbing done professionaly and a good quality greenhouse versus adding a sunroom onto a house and just tying into the existing heating and plumbing system. If anyone has any info or can direct me on where to start my research or on how to start it I would greatly appreciated.

Also, what is or does the R -value stand for with the insulation?
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  #20  
Old 12-25-2009, 04:02 PM
BikerDoc5968 BikerDoc5968 is offline
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Easy question first...R-value simply put the higher the number the greater the insulation value. Polystyrene (styrafoam board) can have R-values range from R-4 to R-8 per inch depending on the density of the board.

I did my own gas and electrical to my GH, but, like Adam (Stonedragonfarms), because of my situation I couldn't run water into the GH. The gas line will cost about $20 ~ $50 for fittings and 1/2" copper tubing will run $1.75 ~$2.25/ft. Electrical can cost some $$$. I did my own and the GH kit came with a circuit breaker box and breakers for 220 service and I ran an 8G wire from my home into the GH. So you have to have the available space on the box inside your home to add a 40 A breaker or a way to add to the current service. My electrical cost about $200 +/- $25. As for water, if you get temps below 32 you'll have to go down below the frost line and getting someone to trench could be $$$$. For me the cost was just out of the question so I installed a shut-off that is self draining from my basement into the garage which is next to the GH so in the warmer months (April to Nov) I can use the hose but during winter I use a 3 gal pump sprayer and use warm water from the house. None of this is particularly difficult to do but I guess if you've never done it then it could be a bit intimidating......

The other thing that will influence the cost is the size of the GH and the distance from the current utilities. The longer the run for the gas line, assuming you are in need of heat in the winter, the larger the diameter of the line and copper tubing may not work for your installation. Similarly the copper wire will be more the further the run.
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