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  #11  
Old 07-09-2019, 02:12 AM
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Roberta Roberta is offline
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That looks great! I think it can just sit inside the GH. Remember, if it's hot enough to run the swamp cooler, the vent will be open so you will get air exchange.

I don't see where it runs off solar... it runs off 110 V as far as I can see from the spec. But doesn't use much power. Does it have its own temperature control? If not you'll want to get a greenhouse-grade thermostat to plug it into. Set the temp for about 90 deg F and it will keep things pleasant for the orchids. Most of the time it will cycle, so humidity won't get out of hand and it will be efficient.
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  #12  
Old 07-30-2019, 08:57 PM
IngieBee IngieBee is offline
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Hi Roberta! I'm so sorry for disappearing. I get so busy, I have to cut the computer out of my life sometimes, LOL. We did buy the GH with the 3rd of July coupon. Got it for $199. I couldn't build anything close to this for less, even with the money I have to spend on a foundation. With everyone's input here, the plan now is to use these posts holders to anchor 4 4x4 posts onto the concrete slab that is existing and to go up the corners to help make the frame more rigid. I'll then raise the foundation wood, whatever you might call that, at least 2 feet higher. This will give me height to hang plants or, if I can manage, a nice tall post in the end to grow some plants epiphytically. I don't think I could do this outside as the Valley is just too dry, often being in the single digits.

The concrete has a huge crack going down the center, so I want to cover the floor with something cheap and easy. I figured I'd put down a weed barrier then that fake grass "carpet". I hope it'd be nice to step on and be relatively easy to clean with a hose? The "foundation wall" which will be 2x4 frame in pressure treated wood, will sit 1-2" off the concrete for free flow of the water I'd attach the weed barrier and carpet to the wall by just rolling it up against it and stapling it, maybe using a tack board (name?) along the edge?

Finally, with the greenhouse sitting 2 feet high, and me having bad arthritis and knees that don't work, I need to be able to just walk into this thing with minimum steps. I really like the sliding door, I think it's nifty :P And I didn't want to turn it into an ugly patchwork swing door. What to do? I searched and searched on youtube to see what other people did. And I finally found a lady who's husband made a short door, with the sliding hardware attached to the top of it, so she could slide the door open, then swing the bottom part open below, and access the greenhouse at floor level! Exactly what I need! I had the presence of mind to take screen shots, but lost the video I've been searching for it ever since, so if any of you know where it is, I'd love to book mark it

Screenshot_20190724-051432 by ingiebee, on Flickr

Screenshot_20190724-050745 by ingiebee, on Flickr

I'm absolutely going to do this

Any thoughts on this would be very much appreciated. Thanks

Last edited by IngieBee; 07-30-2019 at 09:00 PM..
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  #13  
Old 07-30-2019, 09:11 PM
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Roberta Roberta is offline
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That "fake grass" sounds nice and soft to walk on, if it turns into an algae factory you can always take it out. Another possibility over that weed barrier is pea gravel which may drain better and not grow undesirable stuff, though not be as cushy under the feet.

How are you going to handle heat - both adding in winter and removing in summer, and ventilation/air movement? (Essentially all the options do involve electricity, roof vents alone won't keep it from toasting in summer) I suggest that each socket have its GFI protector, so if one fails they don't all fail, assuming that you have more than one. If you and/or hubby aren't super-knowledgeable about wiring, I suggest that a licensed electrician may be wise - water and electricity don't play nicely at all. Put in more outlets than you think you need. Not a good place to skimp. If you were thinking of using extension cords, don't... starting a fire or getting a nasty shock are not good trade-offs for saving a few dollars up front. That frame is aluminum... which conducts electricity.
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  #14  
Old 07-30-2019, 10:28 PM
IngieBee IngieBee is offline
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Good questions!

I have an oil heater, it's on rollers and I figured I could put it next to a fan, which would blow it accross the GH and hopefully in a slightly downward direction. I don't know if that will be enough heat?? I'm hoping it will. I also have an automatic on/off switch I bought for hatching eggs years ago (yes, I have chickens, LOL) and it's very nice, I think I can reuse it in the GH.

For heat in the summer, I planned on getting Aluminet and covering the southwest side and up over the roof. I'll get a small 5v solar pannel, probably 45 watts, and use a lithium battery with a few usb ports to run the fans. I also got that auto vent opener, though only for one vent which will probably be the N/E side.

In extreme heat, I figured I'd get that swamp cooler, and if need be, I could hook it up to the hose so it automatically fills. The location is close enough to the house that I could run a power strip over easily.

I'd love to get gravel, but to get 3" depth, it'd be a lot of bags, and I can't carry them I already rely on my son and husband so much.... Maybe they'll be willing... we'll see. But if not, that was my plan, LOL.

Also, I have 3 humidifiers I could put in there plus I've seen people getting a bucket and putting a large ultrasonic "pad" in there for humidity. I could put a float in such a bucket as well and automate it too.??? Waddaya think? LOL

nothing carved in stone, other than the height and that door solution which I'm in love with, :P
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  #15  
Old 07-30-2019, 10:55 PM
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I keep my GH temperatures reasonable (like under 90 deg F) with a Jaybird Aquafog 700 On the pricey side, but it's really effective - especially when humidity is low. It has a sump with a float valve, and is connected to the hose bib (multi-port manifold) so it fills as needed. Again, that takes 110v. Whatever you do in terms of climate controls, look at keeping them compact - you want to fill the GH with orchids, not equipment. For calculating your heat needs, check out this nifty little calculator:
ACF Greenhouse Heaters & Heater Size + Cost to Heat Calculators
Factors are the glazing material, surface area, and the maximum temperature differential between GH and outside temperatures. (Use the coldest that your area has gotten historically, you don't want to undersize. Like the winter of 2006-2007.) Then look at your oil heater specs to see its BTU rating.
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  #16  
Old 07-31-2019, 12:22 AM
IngieBee IngieBee is offline
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Hummmm, I guess it's 5000 btu, the calculator says I need 6000 if it's 28 degrees outside and I want to maintain 60 degrees.

Another issue with this heater is it doesn't just turn on and off, it stays hot until it naturally cools off. Not sure if that could cause me to over-heat the green house, but I don't think so.

I could add a bit of a cover to hold off air loss??? I'd rather use the stuff I have already than buy new, but I do get it that the loss of my orchids would be far worse, so I might have to buy an auxiliary heater. Which is probably not a bad idea in case one fails, right?

There are so many things to think about when building a greenhouse! To be honest, I'm kind of waiting until autumn to actually use it for two reasons. First, I don't have much energy in the heat, so construction is s*l*o*w and second, I think the chances of me burning the lot up in the summer heat is more likely than freezing them out, LOL. I hope to get a feel for the greenhouse over the cooler months to get me through next summer.

I do plan on sealing all the joints for heat loss, which will require, probably foam pipe insulation between the bottom of my "foundation" which I plan to leave open for drainage and to keep wood off the wet concrete, despite being pressure treated, on the lower side.

Anyways, I've learned from building my chicken coops, that over planning isn't worth it as I end up building it differently in the end anyway, LOL. I usually see a better way as I build. I just have to decide on the general foundation, then I'll add/subtract and resolve issues as I see 'em

Hopefully the heater will work out, but I should know before it gets really cold..... I hope, LOL
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  #17  
Old 07-31-2019, 12:39 AM
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When the weather cools off but before you load up the greenhouse, you might want to test that heater. If it starts out hot and cools off, that's the opposite of what is needed... the serious (and potentially dangerous) cold is what happens from around midnight until dawn. So you need a heater that comes on when the temperature in the GH is below what you want. You don't want it hot (which also drops the relative humidity) in the early evening and hope that dawn comes before the orchids freeze.

It sounds like that heater would be better for one's living area - get the bed nice and toasty before you crawl into it, and then lets the room cool off while you're comfortably under the covers.
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2019, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IngieBee View Post
...
Finally, with the greenhouse sitting 2 feet high, and me having bad arthritis and knees that don't work, I need to be able to just walk into this thing with minimum steps. I really like the sliding door, I think it's nifty :P And I didn't want to turn it into an ugly patchwork swing door. What to do? I searched and searched on youtube to see what other people did. And I finally found a lady who's husband made a short door, with the sliding hardware attached to the top of it, so she could slide the door open, then swing the bottom part open below, and access the greenhouse at floor level! Exactly what I need! I had the presence of mind to take screen shots, but lost the video I've been searching for it ever since, so if any of you know where it is, I'd love to book mark it
.....

I'm absolutely going to do this

Any thoughts on this would be very much appreciated. Thanks
Exactly my problem with the greenhouse I want to some day construct. What a simple solution... also the ability to roll big pots into the greenhouse when winter comes, as opposed to carrying up stairs. Thank you! I love this idea!
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2019, 07:15 AM
IngieBee IngieBee is offline
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Yes, @WaterWitchin , and I've got some big plants who could use winter protection! I don't know how my plumeria has survived so long. It's barely survived for almost 20 years; with near death experiences each winter. Maybe it will actually bloom next year???

@Roberta, the heater doesn't start out super hot, it's just once the oil heats up, if it's turned off, it would continue to be warm for some time. Anyway, I'd be a good idea to have at least 2 heaters in there anyways just in case . Also, definitely good advice on testing things before sticking all my plants in there
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2019, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IngieBee View Post
@Roberta, the heater doesn't start out super hot, it's just once the oil heats up, if it's turned off, it would continue to be warm for some time. Anyway, I'd be a good idea to have at least 2 heaters in there anyways just in case . Also, definitely good advice on testing things before sticking all my plants in there
That is probably not the best heater for greenhouse use, as the heat up- and cool down lag times may make it difficult to control the temp well.

In a small greenhouse, because it has a large surface-to-volume ratio, the temperature can fluctuate rapidly, so you're better off with a heater with narrow-band control.
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