Ok guys - just some info, they can bloom all year in australia and mine so far is trying to shoot out spikes as far as I can tell in the middle of summer. They only need a drop of 5- 10 F from their normal night temps and they will start producing eventually spikes or keikis. They can be induced into flowering by placing them in the fridge each night for at least 2 hrs if the fridge is set to a minimum of 35F. My fridge is set low but each shelf has a different temp. The top shelf is around 37- 38F and the next shelf drops about 2- 4F then the drawers are around 30F. I placed my den nobiles and den kingianum on the 2nd shelf at 34F and they did fine all night. I check to make sure but i have let the den nobiles hit 34F along with the kingianum and my den anosmum has hit 39F over winter in nw fl. so they can take less than you think as long as they are good size and strong healthy plants. I grew outside as the plants were more hardened and could handle low extremes for short periods. I even got my vanilla orchid to hit 46F as most people said they could only handle 55F. I think you should let your kingianum grow vegetatively until it is mature which is when the canes reach their max hight usually around 6- 8" but some can hit 10". My kingianum max out at around 6" tall but are blooming size and there are 2 slight variations in the species- one type grows lower to about 4 - 6" tall at max with short fat bulbs/canes and some hit 8-10" tall and are tall and thinner or more spindle shape. The flowers look and smell almost identical but the taller thin cane/bulb variation tend to spread more as the smaller variation grows more densely with short swollen bulbs and overcrowds itself. I got the smaller variation that seems to grow more short and swollen and the smaller ones can seem to overcrowd themselves. I do have canes/bulbs that are growing sympodial canes in a dense clump and will need to be separated into 2 plants instead of one. I also have mine blooming as the temps dropped one night from 75- 80F down to about 70F and that was all it took to start spiking. I also have only lightly misted the plant once in the 7- 10 days since the spikes started. I will not water again until the spikes have elongated and show signs of buds as tis si when they need the most water. They get bright light now but only get direct sun light in winter. They are all used to direct light in winter and less direct light in summer even phals can stand direct sun in winter as long as the sun shift is gradual. I would wait to see what kind of plant you have- it could be the short stocky variation or the taller slender variation and wait till canes have all started maxing out on hight and then expose to a drop of 5 - 10F or you can get them used to the fridge by letting them stay outside until temps are around 45- 40F and then keep them in the fridge or leave them outside for as long as possible before temps hit less than 35F then take them in. I also have recipes for bloom fertilizer that is home made and will induce very young plants to flower if they are able to.
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