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  #11  
Old 02-12-2023, 08:03 AM
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Newly-growing tissues failing could be due to a calcium deficiency. Existing growth having issues is definitely not.

Phrags can be really sensitive to mineral and waste buildup, and pH change in the potting media. All my phrags are in LECA in S/H, and if I start seeing leaf tip browning, I replace the LECA.
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2023, 03:07 PM
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Yes, I have fought low humiditity and liquid rocks water. The plant leaves look very healthy except where they are brown, I nearly do not think it is an issue with humidity. I think it is the liquid rocks issue. The RO water I am getting is still from a local source. I got some from Florida. 2 were from Acker, who is up near the great lakes somewhere.
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2023, 03:35 PM
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RO water will be fairly pure, the source isn't particularly important as long as they maintain the filters. It probably isn't zero in solids, but it's 10-20 ppm at worst. When you use RO, you do want to use a fertilizer that is formulated for pure water, that includes calcium and magnesium, and is also lower in phosphorus (which lowers pH, helpful for liquid rocks, not for pure water) I now use RO for my fertilizer for everything (put in a unit), but for routine watering only use it for general watering on the sensitive plants. The pH of the fertilizer solution sits right around 6 or 6.5 with the MSU pure-water formula, ideal for absorption of nutrients by plants. When I used tap water for fertilizing, and a fertilizer that was designed for it (like 20-20-20) the only way that I could get the pH below 7 was by adding vinegar to the soup. (Calcium bicarbonate is a really good buffer that stubbornly stays at about pH 7.8, the amount of phosphorus in the fertilizer was completely overwhelmed and it didn't do anything much)
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2023, 02:09 PM
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Thanks. I think I figured it out. When I first got them, I was using regular tap water. Then I switched to RO water. I can see that the plants that were new growths when I used tap water have the tips brown, but the growths that came in when I was using RO are not brown. The brown tipped growths are only in about the middle range while the very lowest (growing after I switched water type) do not have the brown tips. I'll show you a sample (pictures).

One has a huge amount of new growths-- so it is unusual, The other is more the normal amount of growth for a year.
You can see the middle range more in the phrag that has a lot of new growths. I can see in the picture that the very bottom layer has no brown tips. (I will need to divide this plant soon, it looks like. )
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Last edited by Optimist; 02-20-2023 at 02:14 PM.. Reason: To add some info.
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Old 02-21-2023, 09:49 AM
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Just my , for what it's worth. I have no knowledge to back it up, other than my own experiences.

If you can just upsize the pot instead of dividing that's the choice I would make. All the paphs and phrags I have seem to grow better as a colony. Started up-potting 15 or so years ago and the difference was significant. Dividing them really stalls them out for awhile. I read that piece of info somewhere, possibly here, and gave it a try. It made a noticeable difference.
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Old 02-22-2023, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WaterWitchin View Post
Just my , for what it's worth. I have no knowledge to back it up, other than my own experiences.

If you can just upsize the pot instead of dividing that's the choice I would make. All the paphs and phrags I have seem to grow better as a colony. Started up-potting 15 or so years ago and the difference was significant. Dividing them really stalls them out for awhile. I read that piece of info somewhere, possibly here, and gave it a try. It made a noticeable difference.
Good idea, Thanks.
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Old 02-23-2023, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray View Post
Phrags can be really sensitive to mineral and waste buildup, and pH change in the potting media. All my phrags are in LECA in S/H, and if I start seeing leaf tip browning, I replace the LECA.
Thanks Ray. I have mine in various size orchiata.

I think I'll buy a few bags of Lecca. Maybe going all the way (Semi-hydro) is a better idea.
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Old 02-23-2023, 05:45 PM
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Semihydro works great for Phrags in climates like ours. Use a deeper container than usual and drill the hole(s) farther up the side so the reservoir is deeper. I drill it a good 2" / 5cm from the bottom for Phrags. They will grow roots into the reservoir.
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Old 02-23-2023, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by estación seca View Post
Semihydro works great for Phrags in climates like ours. Use a deeper container than usual and drill the hole(s) farther up the side so the reservoir is deeper. I drill it a good 2" / 5cm from the bottom for Phrags. They will grow roots into the reservoir.
I've definitely figured that out especially the kinds that are Longifolium crosses (and others, like Richterii). The only ones that I fail at are the Kovachii types and hybrids. But longifolium, caudatum, besseae, richterii, pearcii, love to have their feet wet.

At this point, I do not think I am ready for Kovachii. I have tried 2 and both died quickly. Don't know why.
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