Do Cyms need fertiliser in the winter
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Do Cyms need fertiliser in the winter
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  #21  
Old 11-08-2010, 03:50 PM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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Thanks again Bob.

I broke, and bought a second NoID Cym at the local garden center today. It has a spike in flower, a spike in bud, a 3" spike starting and a 2" spike starting. It also has a couple of 1" and 2" growing spikes. By looking closely at this new one I can clearly see the difference... but I'm still not sure about the ones on my old one... think they need to get bigger before I'll be able to tell.
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  #22  
Old 11-08-2010, 04:24 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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yay! don't forget to post pix

yeah - I need the nubbies to be about an inch or so before I can decide what they are - tho I do consider the time of year as a factor in what they might be while still very small.
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  #23  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:18 PM
Bobfharris Bobfharris is offline
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Ok Time to start the Feel test.. compare to the new one and that may help..be gentle though..
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  #24  
Old 11-09-2010, 02:15 PM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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Thanks Bob for the idea.

I can feel the difference between the growing spike and the flower spike on the new one. I'll have to compare with the original plant and see which that is most like.
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  #25  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:28 PM
orchids3 orchids3 is offline
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Bob
I would use a teaspoon of 90 day time release or a Tablespoon of 360 day time release - doesnt the length of time it takes the Fertilizer Prills to release make a differance? In my opinion it does.

Last edited by orchids3; 11-09-2010 at 05:30 PM..
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:38 PM
orchids3 orchids3 is offline
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Myself I would never use 6-30-30 on my cymbidiums.
The middle 30 is phosphorus and does not make plants bloom. Would rather see 6-4-20 Cal Mag called a bloom booster. Have talked to experts who formulate fertilizer and they agreed with me - but they keep making the hight Phosphorus fertilizer because people keep buying it.
The ratio of Ca to Mg should be 5:1. Have seen a bad case of MicroNutrient toxcisity here locally. The person had applied a Teaspoon of 90 day time release Epsom Salts to all pots large and small - the result was all roots died. Magnesium applied in the form of epsom salt is beneficial but give the plant very little - more is not better. 1 teaspoon/gal of water is sufficient or use a Cal Mag fertilizer and use that to get the right ppm of N. The Cal and Mg will take care of itself if the formula is a 5:1 ratio of Ca to Mg. Plants are very forgiving and it is best to have too little than too much of Ca, Mg and micronutrients.

Last edited by orchids3; 11-10-2010 at 07:15 AM..
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:49 PM
val_and_graham val_and_graham is offline
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Bob Harris's spike pics were fantastic. We happened to have a pic which shows the different spike types side by side, which might help show things in context for any beginners.



As for fertilizer, we feed on alternate waterings throughout the year, but use an orchid fertilizer with a high Nitrogen content in spring and early summer. From mid summer, we'll change to a fertilizer with higher Phosphates & Potash, but lower Nitrogen content (we have achieved great results by using tomato fertilizer) until the following spring.
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  #28  
Old 11-10-2010, 07:17 AM
orchids3 orchids3 is offline
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Nice looking plant Val & Graham
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  #29  
Old 11-10-2010, 07:39 AM
Paul Mc Paul Mc is offline
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Great visual there. My growths/spikes aren't big enough yet for me to tell. Hopefully in the next few weeks with some growth on them and I will be able to tell. They aren't even 1 inch big yet, lol...
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  #30  
Old 11-10-2010, 07:43 AM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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Well that picture makes me think all mine are flower spikes, including the one I thought was a growth spike on the new Cym.

We shall see
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