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  #41  
Old 03-10-2018, 08:16 AM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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Laelia anceps - Dry sheath Male
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Now, that the sheath has opened, it's more clear that the base of the sheath is deformed with an accordion shape. As the base remained closed maybe it won't let the spike come out.
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  #42  
Old 03-10-2018, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbarata View Post
Now, that the sheath has opened, it's more clear that the base of the sheath is deformed with an accordion shape. As the base remained closed maybe it won't let the spike come out.
Patience... Anything that a human does to intervene at this early stage is likely to do more harm than good.
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  #43  
Old 03-17-2018, 06:20 PM
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A practical question...what's the min temp that can be considered "safe" to water it?
I'm asking this because it needs to be watered but the weather has been grey and rainy with temps around 14ºC indoors (57 F).
Next week on the sun shall come back, according the forecast.
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Old 03-17-2018, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbarata View Post
A practical question...what's the min temp that can be considered "safe" to water it?
I'm asking this because it needs to be watered but the weather has been grey and rainy with temps around 14ºC indoors (57 F).
Next week on the sun shall come back, according the forecast.
I think it is safe to water as long as temperatures are above 40 deg F (4 deg C) (that's what my L. anceps get) 14 deg C is balmy... no worries.
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  #45  
Old 03-17-2018, 06:31 PM
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So low?!
But as you've mentioned, your is in a basket so it dries fast.
Do you still think the same applies to a potted one?
It dries fast too due to my medium choices but not so fast as in a basket.
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Old 03-17-2018, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbarata View Post
So low?!
But as you've mentioned, your is in a basket so it dries fast.
Do you still think the same applies to a potted one?
It dries fast too due to my medium choices but not so fast as in a basket.
I think just water less often if it is cool. (Let it go nearly completely dry before you water again, they are also drought-tolerant) But your indoor temperatures are not very cold by L. anceps standards, I don't think that it would be a problem.

---------- Post added at 03:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:36 PM ----------

My L. anceps get rained upon if it rains (no overhead protection). Fortunately, when there are clouds, the night temperatures are moderated a bit (rarely below 40 deg F/4 deg C) If there are no clouds, night temps can go close to freezing, but then they are pretty dry. (I have never even lost a L. anceps under the worst situation where it rains then becomes clear and cold in the same night) Daytime no problem at all, even if not sunny they do get a chance to warm up a little, coldest winter daytime temperatures are around 55 deg F/12-13 deg C, usually a little more than that.
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  #47  
Old 03-17-2018, 06:50 PM
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Last month we had several weeks of clear skies which has put the plant in full sun under temps of over 20ºC (68 F). During all that time, as the medium is very coarse and with low water absortion properties I was watering it every day.

As we know that in the habitat, during the main growing season days are warm/hot with frequent rain, maybe that's why it developed a spike and why it seems to have the growing cycle completely messed up.

That's just a theory.
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Old 03-17-2018, 07:47 PM
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[QUOTE=rbarata;870697

As we know that in the habitat, during the main growing season days are warm/hot with frequent rain, maybe that's why it developed a spike and why it seems to have the growing cycle completely messed up.

That's just a theory.[/QUOTE]

Maybe... but it is a very long time from the beginning of a spike to flowering... so it could slip back into a normal pattern as the year moves forward. They do whatever they want... My L. anceps were mostly on schedule this year even though "summer" finally ended around mid-December (daytime RH around 15%) and there were some warm days mixed with the cool ever since. ("Rain" mostly comes out of a pipe or hose) My Cymbidiums, however, were totally confused... in a normal year, the peak of blooming would be about now, but I have only a few in bloom, mostly spikes and buds that are characteristic of December or January.
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  #49  
Old 03-18-2018, 08:47 AM
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And yesterday I've found another new growth...this plant is taking off fast. I'm not sure but I think it should be repoted now. Most of the new roots from new growths are already too long and inside the medium so maybe I should wait for next autumn.

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Old 03-18-2018, 11:07 AM
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It's a little late for repotting - that new growth may put down some new roots, but you already have most of them. If you want to "control" the roots a bit, you can put the plant (in its current pot) into a wider pot, or a basket, fill in with some large bark. Then the new roots will be able to get a bit of extra moisture. But I have found with L. anceps that it really doesn't like pots much, and is ambivalent even about baskets - it really likes to be free.
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