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  #1  
Old 10-12-2016, 12:02 AM
Tetra73 Tetra73 is offline
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I recused a Lowes's Cattleya Williette Wong The Best.
Default I rescued a Lowes's Cattleya Williette Wong The Best.

I couldn't resist. I received my Dendrobium Frosty Dawn on Monday from a seller in Hawaii, and repotted. Went to Lowes to pickup a bag of orchid barks earlier and saw these netted Cattleyas for $13. Over 12" tall. Most of them weren't great looking but not horrible. Only this Williette Wong has lime green leaves with more robust sheaths. The rest were all dark green and skinny.

I bought it and repotted it before the end of my grow tent light cycle. Left it inside my grow tent for few hours unpotted with bare roots before repotting it. The roots are OK but with only few rotten roots. And it is perking up fine.

I realized both Dendrobium and Cattleya would need medium light to thrive, about 1500 to 3000 foot candles. My current 6 t8 strips would only give me 600 ft candles 1ft away from the bulbs. I added another 46w LED bulbs made by Phillips and mounted it within a foot from the Dendrobium and about 16" to the Cattleya. That gives me about 1500 to 2000 ft candles for the Dendrobium and roughly about 1000 ft candles on the Cattleya. The Dendrobium is closer to the LED light than the Cattleya.

I know these light reading is in the low range for these orchids. In 2 weeks or so, I should know if my current light intensity and duration are sufficient enough.

Last edited by Tetra73; 10-12-2016 at 11:38 AM..
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  #2  
Old 10-12-2016, 01:17 AM
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stonedragonfarms stonedragonfarms is offline
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Welcome to the board! 1000fc is too low for pretty much anything in the cattleya alliance to bloom; 2000-3000fc is the optimal range for both sturdy growth and robust blooms. Many phals, paphs and pleurothallids will perform well under lower light conditions, but cattleyas not so much. I'm hoping the others will chime in as well; I'm not familiar with growing under T-8s, but the intensity at a foot from the bulbs seems pretty low. What are you measuring the intensity with?
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  #3  
Old 10-12-2016, 01:33 AM
Tetra73 Tetra73 is offline
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Welcome to the board! 1000fc is too low for pretty much anything in the cattleya alliance to bloom; 2000-3000fc is the optimal range for both sturdy growth and robust blooms. Many phals, paphs and pleurothallids will perform well under lower light conditions, but cattleyas not so much. I'm hoping the others will chime in as well; I'm not familiar with growing under T-8s, but the intensity at a foot from the bulbs seems pretty low. What are you measuring the intensity with?

I agree. I did a conversion using my exposure light meter for photography (measuring the ambient light and measuring the exposure values) and to cross reference with this chart here. Conversion Chart

With my 6 t8 strips, I am getting a consistent EV 11 to 12 from 1ft to 2ft away from the bulbs. Roughly about 500 foot candle. And close to 1000 few inches from the bulbs. Once I added a 2 LED bulbs with 3000 lumens combined, my EV jumps from 12 and to 13 on the Dendrobium (1000 average to 2000 few inches to the bulbs) The Cattleya is about 6" behind the Dendrobium. The EV is lower, about 12, under 1000.

The light is on for 15 hours. My next step, if I need more light if the Dendrobium and Cattelya are not doing well, would be using a T5 fixture. I am trying to avoid in buying a new light fixture since it isn't cheap. These t8 fixtures I had them for a while when I was using them on my terrarium.

Here is my tent...before I added the Cattleya. And the LED bulbs are just right in front (outside) the Dendrobium.

growtent by vracing, on Flickr

Last edited by Tetra73; 10-12-2016 at 01:36 AM..
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:59 AM
terryros terryros is offline
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Remember, the FC suggestions for orchids that are out there are for peak light under natural sunlight. When you are delivering constant artificial light, you only need half the intensity to deliver the same daily light integral.

You also have to be careful about day length for some species and hybrids. Photoperiod change to short days is needed by some, so constant 15 hours is going to inhibit blooming for these orchids.


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Old 10-12-2016, 10:28 AM
Tetra73 Tetra73 is offline
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Remember, the FC suggestions for orchids that are out there are for peak light under natural sunlight. When you are delivering constant artificial light, you only need half the intensity to deliver the same daily light integral.

You also have to be careful about day length for some species and hybrids. Photoperiod change to short days is needed by some, so constant 15 hours is going to inhibit blooming for these orchids.


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Thanks...Yeah, I am hoping the longer photoperiod would make up for my lack of intense lighting. I only have these 2 orchids for less than a week. So, I am not worrying about exhausting them yet.
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:51 AM
Bohata Bohata is offline
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I looked this variety up. It is apparently summer blooming, and probably has C. aurea in its background. This suggests to me that it shouldn't need a shortened daylength to bloom.
From the pictures of the blooms I saw, it should be well worth the effort!
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:20 PM
Tetra73 Tetra73 is offline
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I looked this variety up. It is apparently summer blooming, and probably has C. aurea in its background. This suggests to me that it shouldn't need a shortened daylength to bloom.
From the pictures of the blooms I saw, it should be well worth the effort!

As you can see in my tent, I needed some larger orchid to fill up the space. I didn't want to spend another $30 to order one online....since I just got the Dendrobium from a Hawaii seller for $35. I decided to give these Lowes's Cattleya a chance, for $13. Too bad I am in NYC and the orchid varieties aren't that great. Some Lowes in Florida would even carry Dendrobium in bloom too...

Here is the shot from this morning...I just misted and watered them.

Cattleya and Dendrobium by vracing, on Flickr
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Old 10-12-2016, 04:34 PM
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I recused a Lowes's Cattleya Williette Wong The Best.
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I love your set up! So very nice and green! I love your clever use of storage containers, too. Impressive! I started a small herb garden in one a few days ago and use storage bin lids to catch water run off from the plants. The plants on the windowsills make use of the smaller food storage containers. They come in every size....

I looked up that Cattleya--what a really great find!
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:06 PM
Tetra73 Tetra73 is offline
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I love your set up! So very nice and green! I love your clever use of storage containers, too. Impressive! I started a small herb garden in one a few days ago and use storage bin lids to catch water run off from the plants. The plants on the windowsills make use of the smaller food storage containers. They come in every size....

I looked up that Cattleya--what a really great find!
Thanks. Having plants at the bottom, terrestrial plants with soil, can catch all the dripping water. I just added a sheet of alum foil on the left side where I took the picture, deflecting some light from the 2 LED bulbs. Did another light reading. By the bark area, the light intensity on the Dendrobium is about 1000 FC. FC increases to the tip of the tallest cane, at about 2000 FC. The Cattleya is further away from the LED bulbs and the overall light intensity is pretty consistent from the bark area to the few inches to the bulbs..about 900 FC to 1500 FC by the bulbs.

Give it a week or so I should know if these light intensity and duration are sufficient. The Cattleya leaves are lime green. The Dendrobium leaves are not all that light green but not dark either.
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:53 PM
Bohata Bohata is offline
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I recused a Lowes's Cattleya Williette Wong The Best.
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I discovered a little background for the grex name. Williette Wong is the wife of a former president of the Honolulu Orchid Society. And I was right about the Cattleya aurea background. Just for what it's worth.
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